...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Welcome in Jordan and Syria

Friday 7-9-07

out of Aqaba... ...onto the highway to North

     We came from Egypt this afternoon, steering still in Aqaba, direct to a Chinese restaurant located in the first floor. No lift, but plenty
   stairs. The owner honor such efforts with a big -red paint written- THANK YOU- on the wall before the entrance. We had changed
   some money on the ferry and were equipped with what is needed "hunger and cash." In the restaurant ,Feisal the Jordanian waiter
   was looking at the watch it was 2:30 pm. In an half hour his shift is over for today, when two suspicious foreigners banged the door
   open and stormed into the otherwise empty restaurant. Their cloth dirty, unwashed, uncombed, the man in underwear (every decent
   Arab considers a short trouser being underwear), slippers on his big feet, dust dirty up to the knee where the brownish color slowly
   vanishes to expose a sunburn skin. On the head a cover, once a hut, he must have found on the garbage dump. The woman was
   looking with her Asian eyes after a place to sit. Feisal was wondering: Maybe they are Jail escapes. He heard about such fellows,
   maybe they are thieves. "I have only one JD (B$ 2.-)in my pocket, should last another week until my salary. His frantic thought were
   interrupted by the big guy approaching him:   "Are you open?" He did not know what to say except "Moment" and escaped behind a
   door into the kitchen.

The boss and cook was just chasing away the housecat having her lunch on food remains left over on plates, when Feisal appeared.
"boss out there are two foreigner, they look like robbers"

   "Lobbels?" he asked. "Yes boss robbers, an Eurasian and an Asian woman, maybe Chinese." The undersized cook, Mr. Chin Not
   Long was a Hokian, known for hard work, braveness and short temper. The biggest cleaver in hand he open the swing door slightly
   and lured into the restaurant. The two were meanwhile sitting. And as it happen the woman saw him and asked friendly " Ni hau ma?"
   Oh a Chinese lady!" and he put discretely the slaughter tool into Feisal hand who was standing behind him. "Haaauuuuu" and
   bubbled a few words which none of the two understood.

   "Can we have the menu?" And since the woman spoke Chinese to him, he decided they will pay. "Maybe I charge a little extra for
   the shock." He came after the meal smiling: . " Good cooking" said the big guy showing his thump up. "You flom?" he asked the
   girl."Brunei". "Blunei" "yes Brunei". "My Cuson wolk in Blunei, have lestaulant in Bandal Seli Begawan."

And so came the two travelers after about 24000 African kilometer, to a good Chinese meal in Aqaba Jordan. The housecat had
nothing from these plates. They were plain cleaned by the foreigners fingers and returned ready to be stacked and used again.

The cooks 'sheshe" echoed behind us the stairs down into the open where JAMBO was patiently waiting to carry us into Wadi Rum
only 60 km away.

   Jordan a Hashemite Kingdom, has a long history. From the Paleolithic age 200.000 years ago to the bronze and iron age. The
   Persian were here and Alexander the Great (we keep meeting his legacy) and he brought Greek culture, the Romans too 2000
   years ago, the Byzantine, the Mamluke, they all build monuments and castles of which Jordan has so many. In Conflicts with the
   Jewish occupiers in 1967, Jordan lost East Jerusalem and Transjordan, and on top of that, had to accommodate over a million
   Palestinians who were driven from their homes by the Israel army. The problems created by the Jews as you might know dear
   reader, are not over. Now Iraqis fleeing their country settle here. Who's responsible for destruction and suffering?
   Take a wild guess.

Wadi Rum. From the sand desert, sandstone rock formations rise as high as 500 m. They are the most magnificent phenomenon
in Jordan. In 4 W/D we curved in-between the rising rocks until we found a suitable place.

And naturally the entrance fee. (B$ 32- a day) Many Bedouins are waiting to transport tourists for a desert night in a Bedouin tent
erected somewhere under a cliff.

First impressions

Wadi Rum

The afternoon breeze stirs dust up, which floats over the landscape

Our overnight rest in Hotel de la JAMBO and a breakfast tea

Saturday 8-9-07

   In the morning becomes visible that there is life in the desert. These are tracks of a big scorpion, looking for something to feed on.
   The fellow was close to us. Besides, there is not much to tell but rather to show. It was still , it was peaceful, it was a perfect sleep.
   Nothing disturbed and by sunrise we were up and ready to move. It is a place to come back to stay. Be it a week, a month, a year.
   But for now we had to leave as we got to reach Petra and Amman

Scorpion trail? If you look close you see at least 5 faces .

     Petra laying in the West, towards the Dead Sea was the capital of  the Nabateans during the Roman and Hellenistic times. Petra
   is very well preserved and called the Rose Red City, from the sandstone colors and the monuments carved into the rocks.
   The entrance is a gigantic cleft between two mountains. traces of cut out water channels are still seen. The city has temples, baths,
   houses and paved streets.

The treasury (El Khaznah) is a magnificent facade of a tomb adorned with columns and statues carved in rock all build around the
first Century A.D.

The cleft of the entrance El Khaznah

Details of the El Khaznah tomb

As a Manson one could not have made a mistake when carving. There was no cement those days back, to patch up....

Another temple unfinished and "homes" in the rocks behind the camels

     There are many more places in Petra to be seen, but time was pressing, and we had to leave after two hours, driving out of this
   place which itself has nothing comparable anywhere else. We were - a great honor- invited to the house of the Ambassador the very
   afternoon, but could not make it and arrived only around 5:00pm at the hotel.

   The evening saw us, adventurers on the African continent ,in improper travelers outfit, at the doorsteps of His excellencies home,
   being warmly welcomed by His Excellency Dato Hj Abdul Mokti and his wife Datin Hajah Zalina. "Very sorry, we could not make
   it in the afternoon." The Deputy Mufti was there too, but on the way out. And then dear reader we had a Brunei Malay meal together,
   Harun went 4 or 5 times for the "reload". Hajah Siti Norsinah Tengah had joined and as you know, when the atmosphere
   is good the talk is plenty and we stay much too long, but yes, it was for us an unforgettable evening.

at His Excellencies residence on that table for us, finest Food from Brunei, what a welcome!

Sunday 9-9-07

Today is the day to beat the drum of Tourism and to promote my lovely and green Brunei!

We were on our way in time, branching first the Ambassadors residence for a remembrance photo. Again this very warm greetings
from Dato Hj Abdul Mokti, which, one can feel, comes from the heart.

By 10:30 the media had gathered in the Embassy. I was-and I confess- nervous this time. But it went through without a hitch and
many questions came. The Embassy staff, foremost Mr Hj Roslan did very well in organizing the event.

meeting the Jordanian press, TV and Tourism people

   Around 12:00 the briefing was over, we had among us a nice chat and were soon our way out. Not before Hajah Siti Norsinah posed
   for a photo, and promising she may consider to join the trip somewhere in-between. "Consider only?" Harun asked. "Such a trip is
   not for me, I like the comfort of my house and besides I'm very afraid of snakes."

One has to accept that; and so the only touch with the trip was Haruns "traveler songkok" on heir head for the duration of a picture.

Charming Hajah Siti Norsinah Tengah modern Amman

     Your Excellency Dato Hj Abdul Mokti, Datin Hajah Zalina, Hj Roslan Hj Yaccob, Hj Anuar Hj Suhaili, Hajah Siti Norsinah, Mdm Layla
   Farouk Abdeen, Mr Nasser Abdullah Hassan all other staff of the Embassy, "A big Terimah kasih for your help and organization,
   which could not been better. I believe 4 newspaper brought the story, two we purchased and here are the pictures.

Al Raeh The Jordan News

The Embassy driver Mr Abdel Hussien a knowledge person show us around, as we were keen to see the very place, where men
slept for centuries to awake again.

   The holy Koran mention in the surah the story of the 7 sleepers. We went to the cave where it happen. For the people not knowing it,
   there were 7 traveling men which lay to rest in a cave one evening. When they woke up, going the village to buy bread, the money
   they had was unknown to the villagers. Until one guy came along and said: "They coins are 300 years old".

The cave is well preserved , next by, a newly build mosque.

column details inside the cave

   Traveling on, over hills we saw down in the valley houses, one next to the other, no green. Abdel what is this down there? "A refugee
   camp". Please make a detour we like to drive trough. And Abdel turned his steering wheel, we were on our way down. Jordan had to
   cope with over a million Palestinian refugees, we said before.

The whole valley is a refuge camp Palestinian kids. nowhere else to play than on the streets

The picture tells: Palestinian history is a tragic book to read Girls one day become mothers, but not on their land.

   Driving through. the Baqaa camp seeing all these people chased out by the Jews to create space for themselves. Their land
   confiscated, the olive trees rooted out, the orange orchards bulldozed, their houses destroyed. A land title becomes another piece of
   paper only. Palestinians still resisting, are separated from Israel by a "security fence" (called so by them to look nothing), a 30 ft
   high concrete wall build on Palestinian land, cutting through villages with all imaginative ruthlessness.
   One cannot pass this tragic epic of Palestine, without feeling pain in the heart.

It was Sunday evening, I closed my tired eyes but the mind was with the suffering of the Palestinians.

Monday 10-9-07

Early up, I made the live telephone call to RTB, Rangkaian National. By 8:00am breakfast, by 9:00 we were on our route to the
Dead Sea, for a swim.

The Dead Sea is 386 m below sea level and called so, because it contains no fish, as it has 30 % salt content, dissolved in the
water. There evaporates more then the inflow of the Jordan river, hence the high salt content in the sea.

on the dead sea the spray creates salt residues on the rocks

Your body floats. You can rest in the water, sleep, do anything without a stroke of swimming. You cannot dive, as you pop up like a
cork. People make holiday here, because the mud contains healing properties against rheumatism and others calamities.

Plain salt on the shore just balancing, one floats

stone collection a last look at the barren land; behind the sea is Israel

   Sooner than later and after a sweet water flush we were on our way to East Jordan, for the worst night of the entire trip! And this is
   what happen:
   There is a story that, when Prophet Mohamed a.s our prophet was 12 years old he slept under a tree in the desert, and this very tree
   is still existing somewhere in the east of the country. The name of the place is Al Buqayawiyya. Traveling the whole afternoon we
   found the signboard towards the evening. Leaving the tarred road, driving into the stony desert for about 10 km, we found a fenced
   area and a tree. The stonewall had large outlets. It must be raining here sometime, the waters floods and the holes are made to
   drain the water.

The sign and the TREE where Prophet Mohamed a.s was resting

Indeed it is a miracle that this tree is 1400 years old. But that is what is said and we are not the ones to judge.

Close ups of stem and flower fruits

Getting ready for a peaceful sleep in the setting sun

   We arranged here for us to stay, nothing around us, but the Tree and stony desert. The sun disappeared fast under the horizon and
   we sat outside enjoying the stillness. I was preparing the Mee Goreng, our meal this evening, when Harun, sitting in the chair sprung
   up and started to hit himself. Turning ,looking and hitting. Then I felt a burning sensation on my leg, another one and another. Looking
   I saw small insects all over the leg creating terrible pain. "Sand flies" I screamed to Harun, which now hit himself with the towel.

   These desert sand flies, feared by every traveler come by nightfall out of the moist desert to feed. These terrible insects suck and
   create first pain, then itchiness on the point of sting, swelling occurs , which will stay for a few days, combined with itchiness, hard
   to resist the scratching. Should you scratch it open, it infects and your trouble only begins. Here they were coming for the meal of
   their life! By the hundreds. We have insect spray with us, a whole tin went into the air, until we had organized ourselves into retreat
   and safety of the car. The sun was just setting. We lay inside, outside the screen, swarms of these tiny devils trying to get us.

   And they did. We do not now how they came in, but I killed a fifty or more with my bare hand, they just kept coming. Every niche we
   sprayed, closing our eyes and holding a towel in front our face, not to inhale the poison. But laying back, "gssss" there were again
   some. "Au!!" another one at the leg. This went on until around 11:00pm. No sleep. Only a little nap in-between, woken up by another
   sting and pain.

At this point we decided to move. Remembering that we were in a depression, where the soil was actually a little moist, we drove out.
To find a place higher up where these beasts have no breeding ground as it is too dry.

   Imagine us dear reader, the desert travelers, the conqueror of the African continent in night garment, the towel on the face, to prevent
   the insect spray entering the nose and eyes, holding with one hand the torchlight and hitting with the other here and there. This whole
   scenario rumbled along a stony track in the middle of no where, chased away by tiny insects. Luckily there was no photographer
   around all our image would fade like the night with the coming sunlight.
   Harun's body had plenty stings.
   But luckily we had some anti allergic cream from Egypt still, which was now in good use. Finally with itching body we found a few
   hours sleep.

Tuesday 11-9-07

   Early morning before dawn one could hear from East thundering military jets and later, one coming out of the East, likely from Iraq
   flew low, and turned over us heading South. I looked at the map. Saudi was less than 60 km away. Soon after, we drove into the
   morning and saw a Bedouin tent in the distance. Always keen for conversation (if possible) we wanted to great the owners. But as
   you can see the dogs did not like our idea and therefore we waved to the kids with closed window only.

The not approved visit attempt

   From then on it was routine. Out to the main road, where overloaded lories are heading to Iraq and empty ones returning, racing
   down the road as if they were kamikaze drivers on their very last mission. In-between JAMBO our home and travel companion,
   unrelenting setting mile after mile towards our next destination. Syria.

By 12:00 noon we had stamped out of Jordan which, as everything cost money. And into Syria, facing the law that:" if you have
a diesel car you are fined to pay US$ 100.- before allowing you to drive on Syrian roads." Why? they subsidize the diesel.

   A bottle water cost 5 times more as a liter fuel. In order to boost agriculture, economy and transport. You the foreigner should not
   benefit from. Why should you? completing these "draining" formalities, we were on our way to Damascus. and arrived a few
   hours later in this city which was a center already 5000 years B.C.

little more to go JAMBO in Damascus

Damascus

We curved into the hectic traffic and where lucky again. By chance we stop at the tourism office, which had not only maps for us
but also a hotel just around the corner.

   The Salam hotel was for two night home for us. And Jambo hat his place right under our window, that was luck. In days gone by,
   Syria stretched from the Taurus mountains to Sinai and from the Mediterranean to the Euphrates river, played an important role in
   the development of mankind. Here man perfected agriculture, invented the first alphabet and discovered secrets of metallurgy.
   Important aspects of society, like religions, philosophies the language of trade, systems of urban development, diplomatic and
   cultural exchange, all -say the books-, germinated here. Today Syria, a republic has about 22 mio inhabitants.

   Steering their own neutral course strictly opposing Zionism, (Israel occupies the Golan heights too) and the - with us or against
   us- foreign policy of recent times, brought Syria some economical hardship. By the way did you know dear reader that about 90% of
   all inhabitants of Israel are of non Semitic stock? The Syrian we spoke with said, they are Khazars, Turkmen from the Volga region
   and Don. Their king and the whole country converted to Judaism about 700 a.d. the Sharon's and Herzl the Rothschild the
   Oppenheimer, the Rockefellers, Greenspan and Marx ,inventor of communism, which cost so far over 60 million lives only in Russia.
   the Madeleine Albright the Einstein, bankers in wall street in USA if of Jewish religion are likely the Decedents of Khazars. They have
   nothing to do "with the the people of the book". Said the man. In Syria this is very well known.
   Twisted politically motivated articles-often simple lies about Syria - in Israel friendly papers in USA and Europe reduced the tourism
   too a trickle. (Syria is unsafe, a police state, no quality hotels, spies everywhere.) This sort of plain nonsense makes many tourists
   to spend their money somewhere else. We can tell you, nowhere we found more friendly people not cheating, but inviting you, the
   stranger to their home. As we write the article, the owner of the land we stay over night came back with the motorcycle asking us to
   come to his house, he has water and even a better view of the valley below us. Traveling anywhere, sleep anywhere we liked, never
   being disturbed by a person or official. From 12 countries, Syria is the one, we feel safest. Food is diverse and excellent and ladies
   which like the sweets. In Syria you will have a hard time remaining slim.

It is a tough time trying to resists. Pastry you cannot compete with.

   Good hotels are plenty, reasonable priced and we met many Asian pack packers which crisscross the country by public air-
   condition buses. South Korean and Japanese alike. We went to a carwash, they refused payment. You ask for the direction, the
   Syrian will go with you until you cannot miss your destination.
   Take your car from Europe a tent and see this beautiful landscape. An impression you get from the pictures.

   Syria became a melting pot of races. We find the Bedouins dark hair and eyes, the Arab of Semitic stock, strong thick hair, the fair
   slim lady with long light hair and green eyes, she could be an European, or the blue eyed blond hair kid (a Swede?) playing football
   with a dark skin friend. Each culture left its marks not only on people, but monuments are scattered all over the nation. Such a mix
   creates intelligence and innovativeness.
   From Byzantine times there are literarily hundreds of abandoned towns and villages scattered over the North West of the country
   waiting for you to be discovered. We just say to you dear reader, go, go, go.

But now back to the Capital.

main street in the morning Defense tower, behind begins the Souk

Roman arch and pillars the Souk in the morning, clean

Exquisite minarets

The train station and German quality engineering

   Damascus has about 2 million inhabitants, is strategically located and as such thought history a place of conflicts. The name
   Damascus one finds in holy books and old scriptures. 2000 B.C. It was founded by Rezon an Arab Aramean king, then came
   the Assyrian, the Chaldea's. The Nabataea were here, the Romans came then the Byzantine. But in 635 A.D. the Muslim Arabs
   chased the Byzantines out and Damascus golden age begun under the rule of the Omajades. Others followed, The Fatimid's the
   Mamelukes the Osmanides. In 1946 when foreign powers left, a construction fever befell the nation. schools and universities, bridges
   roads , parks...
   The best part are the Souks and the Omayyad mosque The old town is surrounded by high walls (which only help for some time,
   to defend the town). Almost around every corner one finds a mosque with fine arabesques and symbols of Christianity. The Cathedral
   of al Matiamieh, Paulus (actually Jewish Saulus got a vision on his way to Damascus. ) Walking the Souk, one feels to be back in
   times a thousand years. Black dressed women, not even the shoes exposed, two jeans wearing brunette girls in their teens. families
   with children, curios looking at us, there a cat sleeping. And shops, one after the other. All is very clean as constantly there are
   cleaners with broom and shovel. The town fathers had a favor for cleanness. Traveled long again, we retired early.

Wednesday 12-9-07

By 4:00 am I woke by engine noise , as our window was open, I looked down. A small tractor was pulling a tank, a guy holding a
spray gun and disinfecting the edges of the road. "Not bad we thought" The day we used to write and rest a little.

The following pictures should give you an impression of details encountered in the Souk. It is so overwhelming that after a while the
brain cannot absorb anymore.

A drinking fountain, one of many they managed to pass

A flimsy extension "Hand of Fatima" to wear off evil

The tea man and the Souk in the evening

The Omayyad mosque and detail of the minaret

The entrance door in brass and the beautiful written name ALLAH

Thursday 13-9-07

   We left Damascus towards Palmyra an former oasis, now an expanding town, a 200 km East of Damascus. It was over centuries a
   stopping place  for the trade routes from the Mediterranean to the Arab gulf, but also for those taking the silk route crossing the
   Tigris river near Babylon.
   It flourished over centuries because of a spring which rises out of the deep. Palmyra was long known as Tatmor.

Palmyra's temples Zenobias legacy

   Tatmor is mentioned on clay tablets in the 19th century B.C. When the Romans invaded in the first century B.C. they renamed
   it and called it henceforth Palmyra, city of palms. She rose, taking advantage of heir isolation. For 400 years she enjoyed
   uninterrupted prosperity. As center of trade and on the East West crossroad. In 129 A.D. -so the books tell -Hadrian the Roman
   emperor came and declared here a "free city" . Main temples were build during this era. Palmyra enjoyed now spices, silk and ivory
   from the East, and with the merchants from Phoenicia came glassware and statues. Worshipped was Bel a Babylonian god but
   monotheism appeared and from 2nd century, and Christianity took slowly hold. Then, an ambitious women entered the books of
   history. Her name: Zenobia.
   Those days, constant conflicts had weaken the Romans somehow and Palmyra elders decided it is time to make changes.
   Before governed by a senate, they declared it now a kingdom and a fellow of an influential Arab family appointed himself the "King of
   Kings." (So easy it goes). He defeated the Persian twice, but not his second wife, Zenobia! Here she entered the books of
   history. Heir husband died in dubious circumstances (poisoned by her?) She and heir son took over the steering of the "ship" called
   Palmyra.

Remains of Zenobias palace and the great colonnade

   Smart as she was, she held an army strong enough to keep the enemies at bay, increased the taxes for water threefold.( Man and
   camel must  drink not so? ) Sitting on the only spring within 150 km, the merchant had no choice but to pay for every gallon.
   ( and loaded the additional cost upon their merchandise.) The gold coins were now flowing like the spring and Palmyra entered
   an prosperity seen today on the remains of temples and buildings. Master craftsmen created, what last now for 2000 years,
   commanding respect by the visitor such as us.

   But the stories continues. "Swollen Heads do not last!" You now it honorable reader. When, rich queen Zenobia printed heir own
   coins and named her beloved son "August" as rival to the Emperor "Aurelius", refused to pay taxes, she upset the Romans too
   much. Aurelius raised a new army crossed from Anatolia of today Turkey, into the desert and Palmyra." Teach her the final lesson!"
   Aurelius thundered. Few weeks later, the city fell. Zenobia was taken captive, and paraded through Rome. Some historian whisper
   "in golden chains she was paraded." Her final whereabouts is not known.

Master craftsman were at work Details of the arch

JAMBO on a stone? The "master photographer"

   That was the story of Zenobia. Wandering around and looking, her legacy is truly great. Columns crowned by Corinthian capitals. On
   both sides were public buildings, a bath, here a monumental arch called the nyphaneum, there a sacred fountain. Then a temple
   dedicated to Apollo. The temple of BEL with an immense courtyard and the "Cella" with the sacrificial altar and ritual basin.

Family- hypogeum- tombs only safe as long as the family watches over them.

   On the hillsides ancient tombs. above and underground. The later in a network of channels feeding underground chambers.
   A "hypogeum" tomb, one which contained family members over generations like the Elhabel tomb tower build in 103 A.D. , 2000 years
   ago. Today empty, when robbers cleaned all out, is not known.

   Sleeping under the citadel in the desert wind gusts rattle our "Hotel de la Jambo" that woke us up. The empty water tank slided
    over the stones, driven by the wind until almost a100m away it was stopped by a larger stone. "It is always very windy in autumn"
   said the petrol attendant who spoke English.

View from the castle into the desert and two tombs Arab Castle Fakhr Ed -Din against the columns of Zenobia times

The citadel was build under the Ayubid in the 12th century. And named after extension in the 17th century Fakhr Ed-Din.

Friday 14-9-07

   The last night more awake than sleeping, was over and the morning desert sun forced our tiered eyes open. We had to leave. Or next
   destination was Homs and Hama. At an olive orchard where two girls picked by hand the olives, we halted.
   Arda and Desina have never gone to school. Village girls employed by the owner for a few cents per tree. He sleeps in the shade
   while the girls are working.

"You girls need help?" The "hired" olive picker from Brunei

cheerful Arda , but look at heir worn out fingers Desina is a bit more serious

"At the back of the olive orchard were some houses formerly occupied by his grandfather" said the owner. " just drive there".

Made from mud, the roof had to be steep as it rains in winter. The "one room farmers villa" close-up

Like a bee hive they looked. The well next by was dry down a thirty meters. In old days a donkey rotating a wheel pumped the
water up. Short was our visit only and we were on our way again.

   If you recall honorable reader, in Jordan we were chased away from a Bedouin camp by dogs. We had locked us in, like in a
   prison cell. Here close to Palmyra, visible from he road was another Bedouin tent and we decided to try again. And yes there was
   again a big aggressive dog attacking, at once showing who is boss in this territory. But as you can see we got help. Our defender was
   the little girl, picking some stones and he abruptly stopped. "Huh we were already sweating."

The Bedouin camp and our fearless, stone throwing defender

It's me, the Brunei Bedouin! and Zerdawi the mother of the kids around. The light. You notice, without pressure reducing valve

   "The husband is at work" she told in broken English and "yes the kids go to school." Ahmed owns an old lorry and is transporter. "No,
   no garden but we have animals. Sheep and goats. About 500 of them, on the other side of the road." she told us heir life. Do not pity
   them dear reader, they are not poor and this is our calculation:
   500 animals, half of them females. 250 females, would give every year birth to another 250 newborns at least; in two years their
   money is doubled. Surplus is sold and the stock grows by the day. Every investment banker or currency speculator, ever out for the
   fast buck (even if it means destroying whole economies like in 97 in Asia,) must get an yellow face because of jealousy at this
   "interest rate" That is the best return for capital one can think off.

Zerdawi the face tells you, she has a warm and big heart The "shorties" quarrel! There was not for everyone a tin
of cool soft drink. The little one made even a "protest strip"

and Ali carpets laid on the ground wind breeze blowing trough, cool and clean
is such a home,

   We left them Westwards as we wanted to met the the Mediterranean sea. On the way an Oil drilling rig." That is joint Russian Syrian
   drilling" a man told us; it made us happy. Syrians deserve some prosperity. Heading West we diverted to CRAC DE CHEVALIERS.
   a castle used by the crusaders. No one knows who was actually the first builder as she existed already several hundred years B.C.
   In 1110 A.D. the castle fell for the crusaders. Rebuild and refurbished later, it is open for the public.

   Before Tarus port, we follow a sign indicating a seaside restaurant. The last days were rather meager. We had in Palmyra
   a Bedouin meal in a tourist restaurant. When it came, there was very little on the plate. The owner must have learned that this kind
   of food always have left over's; so he reduced the amount until the hunger and bad taste balanced it out. Price high, food tasteless
   and if you eat his ice-cream as dessert, you get a diarrhea for free.

   Now driving along the seaside, the signboard directed us to a restaurant overlooking the sea. Although it is second day of Ramadan -
   forgive us Almighty and you, dear Muslim, but we were weak, desperate for something which passes easy the taste barrier and fills
   the belly and the hearth with joy.

   It just happen that we met the boss, Mahmued and explaining him that, coming from south Africa our budget is meanwhile very tight.
   "Alright what is your budget" Maybe US$ 12.- to 14.-" For one person?" "No.No. For the two of us including drinks." He smiled and
   said: "I will feed you at cost" well what can we say? Look at the picture. It was 5 star food for a beggars price. He sat with us
   enjoying himself how we ate. Mahmued had seen the world and returning home, run now this place. But he looked restless. as if
   something in him say's : It is time to travel again". But that is the faith of every performer in live. Once you go out of the flock, go your
   own way as a lion does, you become in your elder days lonely. Many thanks Mahmued and maybe you read these lines.

Part of Mahmued's seaside "Ristorante" "the travelers the chef and his cuisine"
a story of full bellies

We returned up into the mountains, to find a place where we could sleep peacefully and undisturbed.

   The sun was setting over the Mediterranean behind the mountains and the new moon told us; it is Ramadan. Relaxed and happy
   we retired in our Hotel de la Jambo, looking out into the orange sky which was fading slowly away, thinking where we have started
   our journey and how far we had come. When the evening star Venus appeared on the sky the eyelids were already closed for a
   perfect sleep.

Saturday 15-9-07

As said before there are hundreds of abandoned villages out of Byzantine times here in Syria, many of the early Christian era. We
were on the way to some of them. In a village we fueled. The counter is in the room, the fuel tank outside , a two man operation.

"OK ready?" she shouts. "Yes, diesel march! " as with the firefighters, the commands interchange and only then the liquid flows
until she shut the valve.

refueling in a village the "never fill a drop too much " lady with heir counter

Generally heading towards north we reach Hama a well spread town, with alleys and lots of trees.

Hama and the Orontes river JAMBO attracting interest everywhere

New houses with beautiful fascia.

a mixture of Roman and Byzantine architecture the balconies all closed as the house faces south

"Norias" the waterwheels of Hama

   The waterwheels driven by the water flow of the Orontes river. Hugh wheels, when turning they make a sound as if they want to
   complain: quaaa hiiiiii in high pitch, quaaa hiiii 'Why I have to make this work ? Qyaaahiii ". They lift the Orontes water up 15 m or
   even more. Over viaducts they watered in old times the city. Soon we had to leave, much too early; and please forgive us dear reader
   that we are not more detailed. There is so much to tell. yet the web page has a limit.

We continued westwards over small hills and went steadily into the land of 100 abandoned villages, the first one Syrgilla. The board
explained a bit.

churches and sarcophagus the lid lifted away and the interior ransacked

Overview of Syrgilla Details of a cornice above an entrance

   And we walked between the fallen pillars, the broken tombs, through gates still intact and kept wondering, What is actually
   the explanation for the abandonment. Books say, earthquakes and invaders and agricultural problem but non of these explanations
   satisfies us. Traveling until evening through the land on small roads, we found everywhere within a distance of 10 km abandoned and
   destroyed houses and temples. The evening came driving a field track in we found our perfect spot for a night.

Overlooking the fertile valley below we sat in our chairs discussing what we saw today. What were actual the reason? And where have
the people gone. We need to look more into the history, maybe there is somewhere a clue.

How good you have a 4 w/d Hotel. You can sleep on places like this one

The evening thermal winds brought us the storks. A whole group used the thermal up winds to glide over us. We could hear the wind
in their feathers.

Never seen it before. Storks enjoying the flying with a few wing flaps only.

What an evening that was; and a night cool and quiet, which passed fast. The sun lured at 7:00 am already into our window. "Hey
you two, wake up do not waste precious time..."

Sunday 16-9-07

   It was hard to leave this place, so beautiful was the morning. A cool breeze bending slightly the young plantation of pine trees,
   scattered over the slope, birds chirped, and from the valley a passing train blow the warning signal. "TUUUUUUUT". Small like a
   smoking worm he looked to us up here.

But we had to pack and soon were on the way to "Al Bara" another of the abandoned towns.

Al Bara pyramid tomb and inside the sarcophaguses broken and robbed

an outside one, with the same destiny; robbed empty.

Afterwards to 'Khrab Shams" we wonder what this high pillars building was mend for

Column detail; was this a library? West and North of Idleb towards Aleppo are the most ruined towns

   We did not know where to look first. Bring a magnetometer, coins are surly scattered around. But no visit is complete without
   the site of Qalat"at Sim'an and the life of St. Simeon. According to Al Ghazzi,a historian, Simeon stylists was born in 392 A.D. His
   father was a shepherd. Thirteen years old he opted for a life in a monastery for search of ascetics. After nearly 10 years he entered
   another one in the town Talanissos, (now Deir Sim'an).

Part of St. Simeon cathedral The rest of the pillar in the center. In the centuries, people chop pieces away

Another view St. Simeon could look over this fertile land

     Three years later he left to live in a small cave nearby. His austere life draw attention from the public, people came to visit him and
   ask for his blessing. They annoyed him, so he erected a pillar for himself to climb up and live on top of it. He became famous for
   healing the sick and his prayers were answered. More people approached him for help. He cured the kings daughter of leprosy. She
   was put by the father on the mountain near his location. One day St. Simeon passed and asked her to give him some water. She
   drew water and gave, but covered her face.
   When asked why, she said: "I'm ill" He drank and sprinkled some over her face. The girl was cured at once by the power of God.
   More people visited him and he was irritated by them so he decided to live on a pillar the rest of his life, just to get peace. Over time
   the pillar became higher and finally reached 40 m, where he spend 39 years. When his live ended, his body was taken to Antioch
   and buried in the church of Constantine the Great.
   He had many copying him, who decided too, to live a life on top of a pillar. There was St.Daniel, in Constantinople, St. Luke of
   Caledonia. And many more. And many nameless which tried and did not balance up there, falling in a dream of Paradise, perhaps right
   into it. Much to soon. Others angered, throw body wastes down and the curious onlooker regretted that he forget his mouth was open.

   But just imagine, what about snow in winter, rain, ice, heat? Nothing it seams bothered him. Leaving the place we continued our
   journey, it was already 5:00 pm. Curving the narrow lanes over the mountains, we came into a village with a huge oversized restaurant
   full only on festivities, like weddings. They make falafel and homos and kefta the boss said, and yes, we could park and sleep there
   for the night. As we had to complete the writing and they had power, therefore we accepted his invitation. But what a night!

   Until 11:00 pm the cassette player was on full blast luring the customers. ("here is the show on...). when the last light went out
   around midnight, dogs came, sniffing and peeing on our tiers. Heckle around our open wire mesh window. Nothing to worry I thought,
   tomorrow when they are still here we have the pepper spray! They were there the whole night and we could not sleep. These doggies
   appointed themselves as our protectors. Since they pee on the tire, it was for them like a seal. We became their property to be
   defended against anyone. Every 10 minutes they barked and run into another direction,.

6:00 am. The self-appointed guard dogs, now so innocent relaxing!

   The moment we close the eyes, they found another reason to bark on the window, not one but four of them. Pacing into the distance
   the direction of the "intruder." . All village dogs finally barked too. We had no sleep! The village had no sleep! This went on through
   the night. Finally around 4:00 am they got convinced no one else comes to claim us and got tiered. We could rest one hour or two.
   By 6:00 am we left. The rascals laying there, relaxed maybe waiting for a bone after night of hard work. Yes we give you one, but
   with plenty chili on it.

Monday 17-9-07

After this night we decide to sleep in a cheap hotel in Aleppo. But before we would like to see and read about TELL's, manmade
hills of prehistoric times, scattered in the valleys around Idleb. A 190 of them. In flat land a big hill, manmade.

One of 190 TELL' s in the area. We went one up, plenty broken pottery in the soil

   All are awaiting excavation. On one the hill, the kingdom of Ebla flourished. During excavations archeologists uncovered evidence
   of luxury furniture, wood inlay with shell in one of the royal palaces, dating from 2300 B.C. Textiles from Ebla are mentioned in
   documents from the town of Lagash in the land of Sumer. Their increase of power worried another king who had founded a great
   empire in the Mesopotamia region. He, king Sargon of Akkad declared in his inscriptions, that he had conquered Ebla. Burned
   ransacked, and destroyed it around 2250 B.C. An Italian archeological teams works since 40 years there unearthing a fantastic
   world with fine gemstones figures and statuettes, clay tablets in Sumer language, telling of religion and treaties, of administrative
   matters, a fascinating world unfolds. Unfortunately we were not able to photograph in the museum to show you some of the artifacts.

The clay tablets are intact . Why? When invaders burn the city, the bibliotheca burned too. The clay became a fired brick hard to
destroy. The writings opening a new world to the archeologists.

artifacts from Ebla

jewel found in a royal necropolis writings

The six pointed "David star" 3500 years ago? Was it then, that the Jews adopted it?

   But war and destruction is embedded in human kind so it seems. The great Ebla civilization got the final push into obscurity, when the
   Hittite armies, around 1620 B.C. conquered it and destroyed it completely. Ebla became poor land. What has changed in 3500 years
   one wonders. 250 km East of Aleppo in Iraq the Americans and Brits with a few Polski attached, do now the same. Just the weaponry
   became more murderous. When in old times children could still outrun the heavy armed soldier, now a bomb dropped by a pilot 10km
   high in the air blast the kid in a fraction of time out of existence and his family too. And Sundays the murderer from the air joins a
   mass held somewhere in the field. "Dear God please keep me alive..." "forgive them they do not know what they do" goes a prayer.
   But seriously dear reader is it not time man learns that life is precious and valuable?. Put war and weaponry on the shelf, lock the
   soulless guys pursuing it for their own dubious interests (new world order?) away for life, and start to be true "human?"

Tuesday 18-9-07 In Aleppo

     Aleppo claims to be one of the oldest inhabited towns. Settlements around date back to the 9th millennium B.C. In 637 A.D it
   became part of the Islamic Empire. Many city walls, towers, castles, Madrasseh (old schools), over 60 hammams (public bath) the
   souk with narrow covered streets and Caravanserais, date back to this period. Aleppo has about 1000 mosques, erected over the
   period of Islam.

   We have heard of a new mosque in Aleppo, build only 8 years ago and we liked to see it. The taxi driver knew at once where we
   wanted to go. Looking from outside, she is an impressive building. On ground floor several doors, behind one a clinic in which the
   sick meet the doctor and get ointments for a minimal fee. That is Islam in practice.

   Since the mosque was locked we asked for the favor to visit it, and within minutes, the keeper swung the entrance door wide open
   and stepped back for a view into the payer hall. We held our breath!

Kiblat The beautiful and radiant interior gripped us!

   Never have we expected to see this. Light coming through the windows, shining in all colors of the rainbow. In the center a chandelier
   maybe 5 m in diameter, hanging from the cupola. We ask the gateman to switch the chandelier light off. It was impossible to catch
   with the camera this atmosphere, it was for us as being in another dimension.

details from the stuccoworks in radiant pastel colors

   Whoever vision and made it, had the inspiration from "above." With deep respect of what these master builders had created, we left.
   The taxi driver seeing our faces just smiled. A drive by on the castle followed, but it was of no interest. The mind was, with what we
   had just seen.

the citadel dominates the city

   Our home for a night was once a rich man's house with courtyard, converted into a hotel. It is located somewhere in the souk.
   The souk became world heritage of the UNESCO and since then many renovations take place. Fashion and souvenir shops replace
   what once was a house. The souk is preparing for the tourist boom to come. And it will be as it is a fine atmosphere to stroll around.
   In this labyrinth is everything sold, from spices to baby dress to final resting homes otherwise called "coffins".

   The tourists is willing to spend his money. French, Italian and Russian's we met. Young couples and elderly travelers. In one
   restaurant, recommend by the hotel we took our dinner. When the menu card came, there were no prices. That worried Harun.
   In the midst of other guests in their "go out dining dress" he in shorts and T-shirt explained:" we are coming from south Africa by car,
   (sounds always very good) our budget is tight." But there was nothing to worry! A shish Kebab was US$ 3.50.

The courtyard the "sanctum" of the hotel with stairs up to the rooms. A niche to relax

We had to maneuver JAMBO into a parking lot ; it was sometime very tight driving, with me in front to check the height.

Alleys in the souk of Aleppo

Wishful thinking! he must have a lot of feelings to give

   We left Aleppo towards the East. Our plan was to cross the Euphrates river and enter Turkey near Haran and Sanliurfar where a few
   water wells remember us of our Prophets. The "Sanis", claim, prophet Abraham was born there in a cave and in Haran, mentioned in
   holy books, was an University. Reaching the border we were told, no cars are allowed to pass. We had to return and as evening fell,
   rested in Hotel de la JAMBO somewhere in the dry agriculture fields. The sun was setting with a deep red hallo ring and soon later I
   fell into a dreamless sleep.

Wednesday 19-9-07

Packing early were were on our way. Since the construction of the Thawra Dam the Euphrates river irrigates the plains, Now, olives,
wheat and cotton is produced.

Euphrates in autumn a trickle of water only Irrigation water is transported via open channels

   Here we met the Moustafils are a large Bedouin family coming originally from Iraq. Now they were living for 3 years with others from
   the former village in self-made tents in the plains around the Euphrates, working in agriculture fields as "pickers" for whatever the
   season was. Hani's cousins went for the bread early morning, it has to be allot for the large family, Today was cotton picking for all
   girls, and such work makes extra hungry. They were on the way back when a big blue car drove along and stopped.

The Beduine homes Warm, fresh Bread! First on the head then in the belly

And so we came across these loveable people for a moment in endless time for a conversation by hands and laughter somewhere
in the cotton fields of the Euphrates plains.

Mama and small Adili, a bit shy he is not sure how to react for the photo

16 years old Karsu does not need a make up; and look at the green eye of Kellina where did the
what a radiant personality fore-forefathers came from?

heap high bushes provide the basic material for your 100% cotton T-shirt

We went with them to the cotton fields. Here in the sun they cover their faces and bodies. A day brings them B$ 5.-. The cotton is
picked from bushes stuffed in sacks and then transported to the buyer, with lorries always too small for the load.

   Next by a small stream, almost covered by bushes in lush green, flowing and rushing over little rapids slowing down where the
   stream widens to a pond, few fishes swimming slowly upwards in search for some passing food, insects or otherwise, a shy turtles
   sunbathing on the sandbank, escapes into the safety of the water upon our approach.

   We were slowly approaching the Turkey border. Filling our tank to the rims, topped all 6 jerry cans up, we left Syria somehow with a
   heavy heart. So much still to see and we had to go. So much friendliness we will miss. And you dear European reader let us tell you,
   holiday there, is money well spend. If you like archeology, to rummage and poke in ruins, perhaps dig a bit yourself in small scale, if
   you favor dry air and semi desert landscape, then Syria is your destination. Go in spring or autumn. Pack in your car a mosquito net
   and a camping bed that is all you need. But should you prefer Green and trees and unspoiled nature, then my beloved home, Brunei
   Darussalam is your destination. All year round. The people are equally friendly or even more.

   My passport was the first he ever had seen. Another three officers joint in, until one remembered he had heard about Brunei.
   Is this you Papa? asked the immigration man pointing at Harun. "My husband." "Oh! " he said. "What do you mean with Papa?"
   protested Harun loud. At the next shoe polisher roadside business we stopped, Harun turned his head down, and tipped to it:
   "Please: The man rubbed a full tin brown shoe cream into his remaining grey hair including the bold areas and now my suami (hubby)
   looks handsome like a 17 years old Orang Utan, escaped from Sepilog.

   Passing through the border took us about 2 hours, then we were on our way in Southern Turkey. They plant chili here en mass, Sun
   dried it and exported over the world. "CHILLIJAMBO" held his nose closed (air filter) while I rolled a few over, just for the sake of it.
   Later, standing on the balcony of our Mini hotel on the shore of the Mediterranean near Antakya, I thought how wise it was to fill
   JAMBO up completely. The liter diesel cost here about B$ 3.-. Much more than a soft drink.

   Again and again we thank you all who had contributed to our journey and hope our writings are not too boring for you but rather give
   an insight into land and people. Now in Turkey a strong contender for the EU, we travel a few days to see some of the splendid sites.
   before going westwards to Greece. And should you honorable reader in your valuable time find a few minutes for us, from here on,
   you have to click Europe. We have left the African continent. Under "Europe- Turkey, our travel continues.

And one thing more; three newspaper clips in Egypt are now loaded on the web too.

"Salam" from Norahayti and Harun.