...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Wednesday 19-9-07

Turkey

     Bridge it is called between Europe and Asia. The people, about 65 million, are predominantly Sunni Muslim. It was from here that the
   Ottoman sultans ruled the Middle East for centuries. Today Turkey is a awakening, every town we passed had on the outskirt rows of
   new apartment blocks, build in the last 10 years or now rising. Highways and tarred roads connect the cities. In the 1980, millions
   went for search of work to Europe and many are returning home, to build this nation. Turkey is a democratic state adopting western
   ideas, but with strong historical background. With over 4000 km coastline, the Mediterranean warm waters invite the European
   tourist for summer holiday. Exporter of agricultural products, wool and other commodities, no Turk need to hunger. From the turbulent
   history more archeological sites remain as anywhere else. The Hittites came from here ( we heard about them in Syria) then the
   Greco -Roman period from which many sites especially on the shoreline of the Aegean sea tell tales, (e.g. Troy, did you saw the
   movie?) then Rumi, the holy man of Sufism and Paulus of Christianity, which was born here, near Adana.

   In 330 A.D. the Roman Emperor Constantine founded a new city, Constantinople. (Istanbul) It was the center of the Byzantine Empire
   for 1000 years. Then as always, dark ages followed. The glory and culture of Greece sunk into distance, Rome was overrun by
   Barbarians. Only Byzantine remain strong, but was threatened by empires on all sites and its decline begun with the Seljuk, which
   took over most of Anatolia after defeating the Byzantines near lake Van in 1071 A.D. Then several "holy wars" followed to claim
   Jerusalem for Christianity, They all passed through Constantinople, the Venetian Crusader Force blundered it, taking or destroying
   priceless treasures. Then came the Mongols. Only afterwards rose the Ottoman Empire; their cultural brilliance reached deep into
   Europe, (Today's Muslim in Bosnia, Albania, Montenegro), and North Africa until they were defeated near Vienna.

   Weak sultans make no good leaders. In the 1700 A.D. the Janissaries army became unreliable and European powers took
   advantage, reclaiming the vast domain of the Turks. Hundred year ago, Turkey reached its lowest point and became - so books tell-
   the sick man of Europe. Egypt formerly controlled by Istanbul was freed by Egypt's Muhammad Ali, and one after the other escaped.
   Macedonia, Tripolitania (Libya ) and so forth, the "rest" Mesopotamia, Syria, Palestine was shard as the "winners cake" between
   the Greek, Italians, French and Russians. In the 1920ties, Mustapha Kemal, Ataturk, the "father of the Turks" took over. He fought
   and freed Turkey, established Latin script, declared equal rights for women (look at many Arab states today) and became the father
   of modern Turkey. We find his statue in every town. Free practice of religion was introduced, the country is a modern secular
   democratic state. It has some problems with the Kurds, a people spread over East Turkey, North Iraq and Syria. "We want our own
   state" they claim.

   We, on our relentless journey coming out from Syria entered Turkey near Antalya the Southeastern most town in Turkey. Somehow
   a bit sad in the hearth we left Syrian land and the kindness of their folks. It was afternoon and as always since Ethiopia 5 weeks ago,
   the sun was shining from a spotless sky. It is now towards ending September, the beaches are emptying; most holidaymakers
   returned home, the hotels drop their prices to after-season levels and life become quiet for the concierge and porters, the
   chambermaids and taxi drivers. Somehow it feels as if the country goes to sleep after a turbulent summer. Taking advantage of lower
   prices, we set into a small beach hotel close to town Antalya looking forward to a clean bed sheet. It had become cooler by now,
   the temperature dropped to about 18 degree.

   But it is harvesting time, and fruits season. We ate, and ate, buying either from the farmer on the roadside or pick a fig or two
   direct from the tree, sweet and juicy. Passing a cabbage field we stopped. I have never seen bigger ones. The truck once full, was
   bound for Istanbul. All cutting and loading was handwork.

apple and figs, it cannot be more fresh

In an human chain the cabbage was handed from man to man until it reached finally the stack man on the lorry. Such a cabbage
weights 7 kilo the driver told me, he will load about 1500 of them.

Thursday 20-9-07

   The morning belonged to our web site and afterwards we travel trough the country, looking for the burial ground of Simenon the
   stylist. Following a sign we reached finally top of a mountain with spectacular view at all sites. Out of thorn bushes rose walls and
   arches, scattered around large limestone blocks. It was formerly a monastery. In the middle on a square base a piece of a round
   pillar. The signboards said, "Simeon the stylist sat for 40 years. " Look, another claim for this remarkable man" said Harun.

Where did he then actually sit? In Syria with a former cathedral surrounding it seems likely. Here there are only ruins and a piece of
stone pillar.

Up on the ruins of Simeon the stylist (no 2) View from there towards Syria

The Bruneian stylist. Details of a former column, limestone carefully crafted.

Friday 21-9-07

Leaving early, heading to North westerly direction through the country, hill up hill down, here the remains of a village abandoned,
there a nameless caravanserai.

In the afternoon we reached our first destination, Cappadocia, located near Goereme.

   Cappadocia spreads out before us as a banquet of natural wonders and elegant grace. The formations seen are made of Tuff stone,
   and exposed to rain and strong wind resulting what you see to day. It is a fairytale land. These formations, conical, pointed,
   or mushroom shaped, became homes over the centuries.

Hacked out rooms for eremites of various centuries. Weird are they

This one has been converted to a cave hotel. Five pigeons may make the stone to slide.

astonishing fairy tales formations

Creamlike formations in rosy color. And Goereme town in-between.

   What we have seen was worth the detour and time spend. But that is not all. There are in this region whole underground cities!
   People went 5 floors underground, made caves and rooms, and connected such cities to each other with underground tunnels as far
   as 11 km away. Where did the dug out material go? Who made them? Why were they made?

We will see them when passing through on our way to Brunei in 2008. Traveling not much further, we came to an underground
monastery from Byzantine times.

again, no photo where paintings covered the walls.

                                 They lost their life...                                                                     ...and he, his tail
   Here people went to great length just to live an isolated life, praying, fasting and hiding from the world.

   The night we slept in a pine forest next to a lake. Cicadas in the trees made their luring wing noise, one louder than the other, Harun
   plugged his ears as it was too much he said.

Other road users It is autumn

   Saturday 22-9-07

   The morning as fine and we headed through the country sides down South, and were stopped once a while by other road
   users such as the group of geese. Climbing over a mountain pass which allowed us a spectacular view. In Europe there will be a
   restaurant, a coffee shop souvenirs and postcards, here nothing. Just nature pure.

View of the lake and from the mountain pass

We went on to Konya.

Konya's famous holy man is MEVLANA JELALEDDIN-RUMI "He is the sun of intellectuality and love" say the brochure of him. Rumi
in short, was born in 1207 in Horasan currently Afghanistan. He settled in Konya in 1228 and died there when 66 years old.

His tomb and resting place is behind Jambo.

   As a philosophical and mystical master, he greatly contributed with his Sufi philosophy (Tasawuf), and was founder of the Muslim
   sect of "Mevlevi" the whirling dervishes. His principal statements are: "Do not seclude yourself from life and love for Allah is
   the way of worship." Dervishes are these rotating men whirling for hours to monotone music, drifting into trance on the search for the
   "light", a glimpse of the ALMIGHTY. He wrote five works of mystical feelings, of ideas and made poems such as:
   "The state of the immature man: Oh son break all the ties and be free, for how long will you be captive of gold and silver? If you try to
   pour the sea into a pitcher, the pitcher will only take the need of the day. But the pitcher of greedy people's eyes is never filled."
   or: "A man is responsible for his own deeds. "What you sow so shall you reap" says the Koran. He speaks comparative:
   "This world is like mountains, and your acts are like the sounds that echo back to you."

The minaret above his sarcophagus. Visitors by the hundreds come asking him for help

Entrance to his mosque and tomb. Details of an ablution fountain in the courtyard

We went to his tomb, many visitors around, both from Turkey and abroad. Most came to seek his help. A few handicapped, in wheel
chairs and on crunches. "Rumi heals!" answered the tourist policeman my question. I red about it.

   Entering the building, on the walls and ceiling beautiful calligraphy in black, red and gold . The smell of incense in the air. A big carpet
   hanging on the wall, its colors enhanced by light. The Holy Koran in a display case. Others held garments and personal belongings
   of this extraordinary man and his companions. Behind the security fence wrapped over by a carpet, one he used in life, was his
   sarcophagus, his turquoise conical cap placed on it. Next by smaller ones, his closed followers which are here resting for eternity.
   (or the next successful tomb robber). Koran chanting rooms, assembly rooms for dervishes are attached. Through all these walked
   praying Muslims and "non believers" but it has to be said, the later in respect too. Unfortunately to photo was forbidden.

   Let us end Rumi with his commends on the hypocrites. "Those religious people who carry their books and do not become
   enlightened by what the book say, are like donkeys that carry a load and know nothing of it." and: "spiritual discipline and physical
   self-control should free you from the enclosing walls of earthly shapes. The lower self is the root of all evil. The saint or godly man is
   loved because he is a giver not a taker". We found a book of his writings. It will be reflection time for us, reading it.

   With many thoughts we retired into "Hotel de la Jambo comfortabile" as the air is cooler now. But first we had to have kebab again!
   It get too much! Shish kebab, beef kebab, chicken kebab, Alexander kebab, lamb kebab special, we are longing for an ordinary
   simple meal like Mee or Nasi. How good was it back in Cairo or Amman with our Ambassadors. Now even a KFC junk food corner
   will do. But nothing.....NOOOTHING. I wonder what we eat this evening.

Sunday 23-9-07

   It was Konya kebab.
   This morning when we woke up, a big Motor home was parked a 50 m away. Must have come late last night. With the sun luring over
   the horizon, the door open and a young man appeared, swimsuit dressed, stretching and swinging his arms like a Dutch windmill in
   stormy weather. A young blond woman behind him in gymnastic stretch dress so thin, one could almost look through to her
   intestines. Honorable reader, this is no joke! Every contour of the body was exposed and enhanced by this sportswear.
   This women, as all who do not like an extra gram of weight, walked with a gymnastic mat into a patch of grass in the middle of the
   campers place, to perform her morning gymnastic for everyone to see.
   Neatly she placed the mat on the ground turned towards the sun and then begun the gym spectacle. She could have put the mat
   next to the camper and hide heir bone bundle,( held together with muscle and tendon) away and do what she must do. But heir
   "immaculate" result of a million sweat pearls must be shown, seen and respected. And have you not noticed this type of women dear
   reader? Often having a great ego; but looking like Don Camillo (long horse face), not blessed by a radiance like a beauty queen, they
   compensate it by either dressed to the limit of decency or an exercised body which is perfect in appearance, maybe too perfect to be
   perfect. The open air morning lady was the body type.
   The two security man, the gardener, even we sometime looked. First she exercised standing, then on the sides swinging her legs, on
   the belly bending arms and legs upwards, then a single leg only. The two security man watched from a distance. Oh, she must have
   seen from the corner of her eyes all these men looking at her. Then came the exercises on the back. First arms up and down, legs
   closed up and down, then arms and legs , finally the "wide welcome exercise" Leg spreading; high up they were as if she want to
   reach the sky. I looked: The gardener a simple pious fellow from the countryside, watering the bushes had position himself to see her.
   His water hose was trembling by now. "It was Ramadan, Almighty, no thoughts of sin, please! " his emotions were in turmoil. The
   marriage duties are performed in pitch-dark back home, the wife never allow him to see her and now this blond woman. "She must
   be a witch send by Satan to seduce him."

The gym chick and her friend after Harun talk, dressed now. The gardener chasing his water hose.

   The blonde and heir friend, exercised every muscle or organ , except maybe two, one being the brain, (why would anyone show off
   in a skin type dress in front of Muslims during Ramadan? The second, well you know) It was Harun who went to her and ended her
   "gym show". She called him names, but dressed an over trouser and yes, continued.
   Then only, routine returned to the caravan park, the security men chased the straying dogs again and the gardeners water hose was
   steady. The blonde took her diary and wrote:

I'm very upset!

My dear daily diary.

   I can see the world upside down, bending forward and looking between my legs to the back.
   Folding almost like a pocketknife. But I have to be careful : sometime it can't be helped,
   body gas escape, and with my own nose close by it is rather displeasing. Also, twisting
   my legs until I pock with the big toe in the nose is now possible. But This morning here in
   Konya, in my gymnastic exercises I was just on the stretch of the third muscle on the
   lower abdomen, laying on my gym mat, fully concentrated, a shade fell over my face. A
   man was standing over me blocking the beautiful and healthy sunrays, and asked the
   impertinent question: "Screw loose?"
   It was this rude man from the blue jeep with all the stickers. Which right has he to call my
   healthy exercises "open strip show?" And what is Ramadan? Never heard of it. It is not my
   concern, I love my body and that's it! Besides it cost me sweat and money.
   This shred type was so persistent that I had to stop and put on my lofty trouser and shirt.
   Terrible people wander the world.

By noon we left Konya and went north west, our next destination was PAMUKALE. Through the countryside, passing towns and
beautiful mosques.

We reached our destination PAMUKALE in heavy rain by 8:00 pm.

Monday 24-9-07

   PAMUKALE a small town of 5000 souls has a thermal spring with healing properties. The warm water flows in abundance since
   man write books and where it flows it creates white residues, through depositing calcium bicarbonate, Limestone or Travertine. The
   healing properties are understood since ancient times. Back then the town was called Hierapolis. The Hellenes were here too in
   course of time, but there is no detailed record of it. Hierapolis was founded around 200 B.C.by Eumenses II king of Pergamon.

Limestone terraces of Pamukale, you see the string of visitors on the slope?

    Later it came to Rome, then it was developed as typical Roman town with Roman architecture. The golden age came under emperor
   Caracalla and Serverus. Theater, plastered roads, temples, bath were build, the town expanded to all sides. Estimates speak of
   100.000 inhabitants. Social activities took place such as sports competitions, festivities and last not least it was known as a health
   resort.
   Then the Byzantines, who ruled for several hundred years. It was here where one of the 12 disciples (Philippe) of Prophet
   Jesus, was killed. Hierapolis fell in the the hands of the Seljuk's around 1100 A.D. and finally life in Hierapolis ended with the
   earthquake in 1354 A.D. So strong it was, that the springs changed its course. God Apollo and Goddess Artemis, could not help. The
   angry god of the underworld, Pluto, was too upset.
   The remains of the once great city are scattered all over an area of a square kilometer. Standing Arches became stores, what was
   not destroyed completely, placed in the museum. On top a hotel welcomes the sick, to stay as long as it takes to get cured or as
   long as the money permit.

                    No, he is not from the underworld                                                              The "Bikini trail"

   We were almost the last going up. It was 9:00 am morning. Limestone terraces shine in snow white, blending our eyes. Daily tourists,
   arriving in busloads from other countryside's hotels already dressed in swim suites often bikinis, after paying the entrance fee, swarm
   the site. There is hardly another place on our god given earth where so many pose themselves for the "look at me photo". Any variety
   of shape and form possible one can see. One has hardly space to walk up. Reaching the top, there is the museum with works and
   findings from Roman time. There is a health hotel and an antic pool ,next by a restaurant. Prices is 4 times what it is elsewhere.
   "Money talks" is a Chinese saying. The management spread a few column sections in the antic water pool and the tourist feels like
   being back in time 2000 years ago. For an extra 7 Turkish lira, B$12.- per sun oiled body.

snow white Limestone slopes formed by the spring water ripples in pink from algae

beautiful color combination, sky, water pool and limestone

the "sportsman" and the "tanga" lady, both are Russian

Camera and pride are like a married couple

buildings became stores now and the antic pool

" I'm so sensual and so lonely" A work of Roman Art.

   Here too the cameras click. Oh builders of ancient times, lucky you, not seeing what has been done to your Hierapolis and the spring
   of healing waters. You would be disappointed indeed. When in your time the famous and the builders, the serious sick, sat under
   pine trees shaded, wrapped in the wide cloth,( Toga) nipping on a glass of local wine, when intellect was kept high, and beauty
   hammered into stone forming statuettes and mosaics seen still today, that all has changed into bride and show off, with a few only
   not affected. Therefore, the female bodies you see are in dresses which cannot be smaller, the Hercules man lifts a stone for the
   photo. The fatty ignores his displeasing figure and all wade one time up and down again. Every day tourists come, every week, for 9
   month in the year.

the amphitheater Exposé of the museum

View of Pamukale and Mosque. Another "click" overthehorizon(.net)

I wish we would have such a spring in Brunei, somewhere in Tutong or Temburong,. Every day 1000 tourists for a health holiday That
would be money for our economy that would make our tourism boss very. very happy.

Tuesday 25-9-07

    Northwest we went the whole day. Our idea was to catch the ferry from Turkey to Italy which leaves every Thursday from Cesme, a
   port on the West Coast. But on the way we intended to see the cave of the 7 sleepers. Another cave? You read correct! Another cave,
   near Ephesus. Ephesus a large archeological site was in the Roman area the capital of about 500 Anatolian cities.

amphitheatre in Ephesus

cannot be missed Their graves

This is the story:

what is going on???

   Studying the book I did not know what to make about this. Maybe you dear reader can enlighten us. "How come? in Jordan we went
   to the 7 sleepers cave, and here again the same story? Are these another set of Miracle men?"
   We reached Cesme in the evening. Our plan was to catch a ferry to Italy, Ancona. When we arrived the ticket office was still open.
   My passport had to be faxed to Italy first as they do not know if Bruneian need an Europe visa. "Come back tomorrow" the lady said.

Our night rest on sandy shores in the morning

   Searching for a place to stay we found on the Southside of the peninsula a sand beach. The almost full moon brighten up the
   landscape, trees and bushes were clearly visible. These are moments which leave their marks in the memory. We wandered until late
   along the beach, the sand was cool and fine. The sea splashed gentle, as if she did not like to disturb us. The scent of wild oregano
   drifted over from the nearby hills the very spice the Greeks of old valued already, and today almost no Greek dish is without it.

Wednesday 26 -9-07

              We did not take the ship                                        "Horigato! We Jepun, no have JAMBO! must push da suitcase,Hai!"

   By 930 A.M. back in the ticket office. "No problem you can go to Europe," the lady said. "But do you have a green insurance card?"
   That was now the new theme. In the European Union a green insurance card is a must. We had none. Harun said: "If we go by ship,
   we will arrive in Ancona on Saturday night. All offices are closed until Monday. We have to wait in the port until Monday for a card .
   They will not let us go out".
   Therefore we decided to drive and it was the right decision. Filling JAMBO with precious diesel and we cruised again, now towards
   the North along the shores of the Aegean Sea.

It was 5:00 pm when we arrived at Troy.
You must have seen the movie with Pat Britt, performing as Achilles, a half god who only could be wounded on one spot on the ankle.

   Troy was made famous by the Greek philosopher and bard, Homer, with his epic story, "The Iliad." It was over centuries inspiration
   for poets and gained through them immortality.
   For those who have not seen the film: It is a story of adultery and love. Priam was king of rich Troy. Paris his son was asked to judge
   on the first beauty contest of all times. The goddess Aphrodite, Hera, and Athena were the contestants. Each offered a bribe to be
   chosen as the most beautiful. But Paris decided to traveled to Sparta to look at Helen, the fairest women in the world. She was the
   wife of King Menelaus. Foolish Paris fell in love.

View from Troy towards the sea where the Menelaus army was coming a ramp up to Troy No.3

   She followed him to Troy. Angry and upset, Menelaus set off with an army to take her back. This was the cause for the 10 years long
   Trojan war. King Agamemnon joint. Achilles blessed with invulnerability except the said heel, entered too and fought against Troy.
   But they realized Troy could only be captured with a clever trick. They gave the impression that they had given up fighting and were
   returning home, but left a large wooden horse behind as a gift to the gods. The Trojan accepted the gift and took the horse into the
   city walls. It was filled with warriors. At night the warriors got out open the city gates and that was the end of Troy.

a "modern" replica of the Trojan horse

   Heinrich Schliemann a German, was fascinated by Homers story searched for the forgotten site, and found it in 1871. There are 9
   Troy's, one build over the other. Troy No. 1 dates back to 3000 B.C. Troy No. 9 from the Roman period. Excavations are going on with
   grants from major donors such as MERCEDES AND SIEMENS. But not much can be seen at the site, therefore we left after an hour
   towards North to catch a ferry crossing the Dardanelles to mainland of Europe.

The narrow Dardanelles, on both sides is Turkey

   Who controlled the Dardanelles controls the passage of ships coming or going to the Black Sea and Russian ports. Warships too.
   How many listening posts has or had the CIA along the shores especially during the cold war ? How many the KGB in old times?
   Such a place was always a cause of conflict.

   The full moon was rising over Canakkale, when our ferry set over. Although warned by the song of Chris de Burg (don't pay the ferry
   man until you are on the other side." ) we paid before and it was a safe crossing and cheap. Driving another hour until 8:00 pm, we
   turned from the main road into a field , position our "Hotel de la JAMBO comfortabile" and lay down for asleep well earned. Pulling
   the curtains close, they could not hold the full moon out. His light came through the curtains as if he would greet us on behalf of all
   gods of ancient Greece, once the cradle of civilization. Reminding us, that we are only little travelers in a fraction of the never-ending
   time.
   The Greece border was 15 km away. Follow us please.