...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Egypt

Friday 24-8-07

   As you might be aware, we came from Sudan yesterday. Today is "Sunday" in Egypt. all offices are closed. JAMBO our vehicle is
   parked in the custom compound.
   Not for long we hope, as next by a Range Rover with Kenya number plates had the tiers flat and desert dust all over the body.

   Egypt is serious with custom. Without a carnet you have no chance to enter. They keep your vehicle until you pack out again, either
   in container to Jordan, or back where you came from. If the carnet is not in your name, but in the company name as the vehicle
   belongs to them, you cannot bring it in anymore. It happen to the Brits with their truck. when we left the vehicle was still impounded.

To drive in Egypt, one has to have Egyptian number plates.

Aswan custom plate No. 28 feeling good having JAMBO again

And this is how we got them:

   The custom on the port give you a "no objection paper" after you have paid US$ 100.-, they have inspected and found no drugs, no
   guns, no knifes. That was the fast part. Since the South Africans were here too we did the procedure in one lot. Nothing much one
   can do on a Friday, we wrote the overdue story and put it on the web, for you to see.

Saturday 25-8-07

   Since 8:00 am we waited for Mohammed a Nubian. He came at 10:00 am and we drove to the license office, an old shabby building
   with a 50 customer around, and behind glass Egyptian women on tables with piles of files and papers. It looked they only do the last
   applicant, the former one vanishes somewhere between folders, until he comes and complain loudly, then it is worked on.

   We went to Counter No 1, the cashier put in the custom paper, pay money. make copies of passport, carnet, driving license, go to
   counter 5. with receipt of payment. The lady in counter no.5 just discusses with another one about a necklace she was wearing as
   she held it up. (You do not need to understand Arabic for that). Another joint in and three of them talked, until the waiting customers
   shouted. Now we got attention, she took the receipt and documents copies and graceful wrote a new paper, returning it to us.

   To counter 1 and pay again. Meanwhile a line has build up there, the cashier was not in, he went for tea. We waited until he came
   again, Then his mobile phone rung, no action until his conversation was over. From the smile one could see that was surely not
   his wife on the other end.. Not much problem there, payment was done, now to counter 3 with the paper. But no one there. Our
   Mohamed knew the back entrance door. That helped, as Harun bought 3 soft drinks, and with these we went where the action was,
   found the number 3 lady, and Harun with a smile gave her a drink and twinkle with the eye. She went to the job back, and we got
   now the final paper from her. Schukarn! (thank you).

   Driving down to the vehicle inspection yard to pick up the engineer who will inspect our vehicle if it is roadworthy he had to come to
   the port, as custom has them still under lock, until we come with the number plates. There was a line of 15 vehicles and the engineer
   was alone. "How can he go to the port?" he shouted to Mohammed when so many cars are waiting? Harun bought him a cold drink,
   and he cooled down. Car by car went trough the yearly inspection, only interrupted when his handy rung.

Oh, inspectors of Gadong Land Transport Department, you are precise because you know road safety is paramount. But safety
means little here and we tell you why:

Brunei Land transport officers would impound him!

   This is how they check in Egypt: the vehicle drives in front of the engineer, he look at the tires, switch the wiper (it never rains in
   Aswan) go around and that is it. The driver has to show a fire extinguisher which is always still in plastic and sales carton. The tiers
   are all very good and the extinguisher new. (Mohammed explained that they borrow against a fee the tiers and extinguishers for the
   inspection.) But all has an end and so this line too. Finally the engineer went to the port checked our cars, all was OK, back to the
   license office but first, the officer must drink. buy soft drink and sit down," as a man is no machine." We reached the office, the ladies
   were on the way home. Just in the last moment we got the cola lady ,"Pleeeease", she helped to stamp now the signed papers,
   while Harun went for another drink for her.
   Finally triumphal we held 3 stamped and signed documents up. Job done. It was 3:00pm. Now we must rush for the Insurance.

"No, not today" said Mohammed, "all is closed now."

Sunday 26-8-07

     By 8:00 we waited, Mohammed came by 9:00. To the insurance. An old building the stairs up. No insurance here they have moved.
   Down again the stairs into another building into a room, a table, a middle aged man who wrote slowly insurance cover for already
   waiting people. Harun saw, that he smokes, so he went for the packet cigarettes, placed them next to the table and smiled to him.
   Then only the man looked up. Mohammed gave our papers. Palaver, as in the license office, the lady counter 3 forgot to allocate a
   plate number, without it, he could no give the insurance. Back to license office, through the rear to the cola lady direct, smile again
   and "schukran", we got the numbers. JAMBO number is "ASWAN CUSTOMS plate no 28". Return to the insurance. For one month
   it cost us US$ 20.-. Now we got the insurance cover, back to license office to the necklace lady. She open a file for each and every
   one, signed and stamped the insurance form and gave it to another one in a separate room where they make the license. This lady
   there had seen through the glass window there is soft drink. Off course she must have one. Out into the heat of the day, to buy
   another soft drink for her, and then after 25 minutes she had our details in the computer and printed a plastic card for us to keep.
   With the plastic license to a room with the license plate man. He throw the plates on the table. He is the last and never get a tip.
   It was 2:00 pm afternoon.

   To the port, the gates are locked, Kalashnikovs protecting it. Soldiers do not allow anyone in, unless approved by custom. We were
   lucky the custom man was still in. Why? He knew we were coming and expected a tip for this hard extra waiting. The gate open we
   could go in and fixed the plates, Start and drove out, finally in Egypt. Mohammed charged US$ 150.-

   Egypt had the greatest civilization mankind had ever known. They left the pyramids behind and the splendor of their temples. The
   monuments tell about the glory of the pharaohs. About 5000 years ago a king unified Egypt and this set the area of the great ancient
   Egyptian civilization. 4700 years ago, the first pyramids begun to appear, they increased over time in size. until the 3 great one were
   build on the Giza plateau for which Egypt is so famous for.

   Egypt is almost square in shape. the North South distance is over 1200 km , East- West a thousand. The Nile is Egypt and Egypt is
   the Nile. Along the Nile valley the agriculture production thrives and here live 90% of the population. Cairo, the mother of all Arab
   cities is situated on it, just south of the delta. Over 20 mio people live in this Moloch, borne here and buried here, in-between a life of
   desperation. The common man is poor. Further North the Nile spread his water into a delta and empties into the Mediterranean sea.

Aswan morning, calm and peaceful the Nile The Nile, on the horizon houses of Aswan

To the east of the Nile is the Arabian desert, to the west the Libyan, a few oasis's are scattered in this emptiness

   Aswan is a tourist destination, lots of Europeans fly in, especially when the weather is cool, like in winter. The air is dry and healthy
   Hotels are plenty on land and on water. Cruises are offered, up and down the Nile. The guest are on the sundeck, exposing their skin
   to the desert sun, for a suntan. To look like an Indian is the desired color, achieved only with bottles of sun oil applied, again and
   again. And sweat off course. The blacks and colored want to be white, the white, and the Japanese like some tan, what a crazy world.
   Only the Chinese ladies stay as they are. Pure white, and so, one see them in the temples a handkerchief tied over the face like bank
   robbers of old Wild West. Harun stretched his arms up in surrender pose, when passing one. "No, no, I no lobbel, only sun hot" said
   she in belfect English. They do not want to rob, just be beautiful with white skin, and that is what the Orang Puteh (whites) has and do
   not like.

Floating hotel the neighbor just a meter away Cruising is favored by European tourist

     One see's bodies, tortured by too much food next to the slim woman , sunk over life completely in gymnastic without a gram fat on
   her. The Mama make holiday, with fashionable tattoo on her aged body, next to the young couple on the marriage holiday having the
   hands all over the partner, in tender touch. How sweet is love and how short it's duration.
   In-between the sweat and scent of oil so strong that even Mopsi the ground squirrel from fish river canyon would have fled, run the
   Egyptian waiters in shirt, black trouser and worn down shoes, serving the cool drinks. What may he think of these people and his
   work?
   Such a ship is a hotel. The outside cabins cost more as one has the fine view of the scenery left and right. Unless they anchor, as
   in the picture. then the walls have ears and the neighbor is closer as in a Russian apartment block of the 1930ties.

Seen in Aswan, a true architectural beauty

     With the number plats on, we made a sightseeing tour and went to the High dam, which was build between 1960 and 1970, forming
   the Nasser lake and providing electricity for self-consumption and also for export to Israel and Jordan. It is gigantic what has been
   made here. 4 km long is the dam and at the foundation, 1.5 km wide.

From the high dam river down and the Nasser lake towards Sudan

     A boat, one of a hundred waiting, took us to Philae afterwards to visit the temple of Goddess Isis. Isis watches here over the grave
   of Osiris. She found the hearth of her slain brother Osiris on Philae island. In pharaohs times no one could go o it except priest and
   temple servants The important monuments here are heir and the temple of Harpokrates. Today all Nationalities stumble over and
   listen to the guides.

cool water of the Nile plenty boats waiting for tourists

Philae on the island reachable only over water

The walls are filled with drawings and hieroglyphs telling stories of old. It must have been a fascinating world back those days.

     It was Frenchman who deciphered the hieroglyphs around 1820 as by luck. An in-scripted stone was found which had a decree in 3
   languages carved in it. Comparing the languages, the life of the old Egyptians become known. It is the Rosetta stone one of the big
   discoveries in Egyptology.

Replica of the Rosetta stone

Is it not striking? why did the Egyptians only show gods in the masonry from the side?

     Strolling in the evening in the bazaars one realizes, the Egyptian here are "profit maximizers". Off course it is also the fault of the
   simple minded tourists, which are not able to bargain, and pay what is asked. Foremost the Americans. If one has a foreign skin, the
   price of the soft drink is double. This morning a guy wanted 50 pounds(US$10,-)for a packet cracker and a bottle water. I asked him if
   he has a screw loose up there. We paid 7 pounds, still too high.
   If you as a foreigner walk in the bazaars, you cannot go a straight line as always one blocks your way and want your money (sell
   something). From left and right you are approached:. "See this, come to my shop we drink tchai (tea)". "Where are from?" All tricks
   to get you and your money. "Hallo friend how are you?" is an old approach. "High here you are again, remember me from the hotel?"
   You never saw the guy nor he you." How is your day today my friend?" another way. Now tourists get upset. And are preyed on again.

   A large signpost, "no hassle in our shop, come and look". In front the owner scrutinizing every passing tourists, "when will you go in?
   have you not seen the good intention?" The "NO HASSLE" becomes itself one. Get as much as you can out of foreigners is a law
   here. so it seems.

buying is a problem he takes them for a ride and a likely rip off

     You go for a water bottle, the little mugger pulled from the fridge a soft drink and said: this cost only two pounds" I want water'" He
   takes another drink: " and this only 3 pounds." Not what you want interest him, but where he make most money. One get the
   impression, this is a game and all tourists are considered stupid, A fair price? Impossible to get. Wandering along a street they send
   now kids after you. When you were able to brush off the older guy, with a kid is quiet harder, It is a child, you do no want to harm, you
   are careful So, you try to go around it, but the young is in font of you and trained, he talks as an adult would.

   Professional beggars harass you, mamas dressed in black, the baby in arm borrowed from her sister maybe, with a face of
   desperation indicating hunger ( 3 month nothing to eat and she is about to die, but round like a beer barrel) she stretches her arm
   towards you for money. Grab you, if you do not react. "Give for the baby, look the baby, give for it." Just getting rid of her by
   ignoring, comes a horse carriage driver.
   Only 10 pounds for a half hour. Cheap! you make a photo from a carriage the owner comes running, demanding money. You cross
   the street, a taxi honk's and stop. "Taxi?" You walk 5 minutes along the Nile to enjoy he view, you have been asked 5 times if you
   want to sail a felucca for a very special price. And if you decline he will ask how come you do not want. That is -not exaggerated-
   Tourism hassle!

Monday 27-8-07

We left Aswan in convoy this morning to Luxor. Convoy, because there is still thread to tourists from Islam fundamentalists. Although
nothing happen. In the line up waiting, tourist busses and lots of interest for our JAMBO, the trip, and my beloved Brunei.

The center of attraction JAMBO, Brunei and our routing

     At noon we arrived in Luxor. The once small village became one of Egypt's greatest tourists attractions because of the Luxor temple.
   In pharaoh times the Luxor temple was connected to another one, the Karnak by a 2.5 km long walkway (Dromos) . What a fantastic
   world of gods and goddess of magic and afterlife the Egyptians had, Homer the great Greek writer,  described it as the town with
   hundred gates, so many temples had their location here. From here succeed the pharaoh Ahmosis the unification of upper and lower
   Egypt creating prosperity for hundreds of years. (he know, wars cost money.) It was the holy city of God Amun- Re.
   Busloads of tourists come to see the wonders.
   Should you be curious from which country they are, no need to ask, Just listen to the water seller: "Agua seniors". Aha,
   they are Spaniards. He offer for sure in 20 languages the desired cool liquid for the sweating visitors.

"aqua fresco, kaltes Wasser, cold water , air sejuk " and 16 languages more

For me, nothing surpasses in Egypt the pyramids and Karnak temples here. They are the most overwhelming buildings of the
Pharaonic legacy.

The entrance is lined with sphinxes, waiting ram-like creatures, which lead you to the inner area, ending in the great court.

Columns of the hypostyle hall build by Amenophis, Ramses II and Set I.

They have a diameter of 3 meter, rising into the sky. on some ceiling stones, the painted drawings are still visible.

King Thutmosis I on the left stele at the rear Ramses II the king, and his daughter

One sees clearly the different facial features both expressing watchfulness and somehow danger

In-between in paranoiac temples a thumb of a holy man, Sheik Yussuf Abu El Hagag, which came in the 12th century to Egypt
He was a decedent of the prophet. And as remembrance, every year on the date of his arrival the town celebrates.

   Singing and dancing through town to the tomb of the holy man, most of the folks have themselves decorated, expressing the joy. They
   build structures on trucks to climb even higher, which sometime as in this case do not withstand the load and crash. But never mind
   one can still crawl on the -now- "leaning tower of Luxor".
   And again I lost my hubby.
   Searching, I found him among the dancers, where music was loudest and the rhythm fastest. hopping like a kangaroo and swinging
   the stick as in a battle. What a cheerful husband I have. Just look close you see his hut.

There he is! New tourist attraction "leaning tower of Luxor"

    Not only people but animals are decorated too. This traveler of the desert carries a replica of the holy man's tomb on
   the back. What a beauty is this camel lady with her red tudong (scarf) and heir gentle neck wrapped in deep yellow color.
   She put the teeth out for a brush, but no one cared. The owner was busy, celebrating.

The spectacle was tremendous, yet we found time to photo two girls which willingly accepted a tip afterwards

Fathima and Suheila two Luxor girls in their teens

Tuesday 28-8-07

Our route from Luxor passing Valley of the kings, the white black lined road Westwards, turn North to Daklha then West to Farara,
Baharia and Cairo, turning to Northwest to Alexandria, approximately 1400 km .

     We left early morning Luxor on our way to Cairo, JAMBO is running fine. Along the mountainside through the green agriculture fields
   where Ramses sits since thousands of years. Over time many folks have disfigured him, but this this red granite posture is still very
   impressive. He was truly a King!

Notice how small the tourists are?

     On, to the temple of Hatshepsut only a few kilometer away. Westwards, over the Nile, lay for the old Egyptians the "kingdom of the
   West (of the dead)" in which the deceased is welcomed by Osiris on the day of Judgment. (We have a judgment day in Islam and
   Christianity too).

   The dead would follow the sun at dawn which traversed every day down into the underworld to rise again in the morning. On the West
   side of the Nile were therefore kings, queens and nobles buried. They went to great length to safe the chambers from tomb robbers.
   yet almost all had been discovered and plundered. What is the best intention when greed prevails? From these burial chambers,
   containing not only the mummified body but what he liked and loved in this life and would need in the other Today, only a hole in the
   mountain remains, resting place for goats. However the tomb of one, Tutankhamen was found almost intact. He had for his journey,
   furniture and carriage, pots and pan, himself resting, in the third, the innermost sarcophagi the gold plated hands crossed over the
   chest.

Queen Hatshepsut temple in geometric design looks from far like a hotel. One could imagine the processions moving slowly up the
ramp to the innermost sanctuary.

Temple of queen Hatshepsut A few robbed tomb holes in the mountainsides

The valley of the kings , named as many had been buried (and broken open) there, as well as the Valley of the Queens. Tomb walls
decorated with magic verses, spells and drawings, like in one, where Mut a female god span wide over the world like the firmament.

   European Archeologists came early to search and find, took or purchased for their National Museum. In Italy Museo Archeologio
   Nationale, in Turin, Florenz, Rom and others, outstanding is the head of King Mentuhotep from the 11th dynasty. In Germany, the
   bust of Nefertiti, in the USA beautiful sarcophagi among others, the Brits took the stone of Rosetta (see above) and the French
   specialized in pharaonic art. The Austrian, the Belgian and more. Maybe bad maybe good, who is to say? If tomb robbers found the
   priceless pieces, they might have landed in a private collection, the world would not know about it. Naturally today in the Museum in
   Cairo, one finds the most artifacts.

We are moving out into the desert. The road is tarred but here in the Nile valley you are still slowly. On every intersection there is a
police control. Stop! questions: From where you come? Nationality. Out of Luxor we had police escort, and into El Kharga oasis too.

The first police escort out of Luxor and the Kharga one

The Nile valley is green, water is pumped from channels in the agriculture fields.

Roadblock and agriculture fields

The road lead through stony desert, with some picturesque sand overlays until one reaches El Kharga after 370 km.

JAMBO in the desert again amazing creamlike sand formations

The El Kharga road winding through the desert sand almost buried the rear power line mast

     The police has radio and talk to each other!. 1 km before El Kharga Oasis we fueled and "brmmm". a blue Toyota pick up with five
   policemen stopped. Again the same questions. They drove with us until the town, another police car took over and like VIP's we
   follow them ,Tatuuuu tatuuuuu their horn was blowing as if the president was on the way. Right to the doorsteps they brought us.
   JAMBO front tire lost slowly air, we thought. "Is there a vulcanizer man? "Brmmm.tatuuuu" they led the way. It looks as if they had
   nothing to do and were happy to write a police report something like this:

   "We have led today the 28-8 from 16:25pm to 17:30 pm two foreign subjects with reg. number ASWAN 28 to the Hotel, to a tire
   shop , but the vulcanizer found no hole in the tire. Then to a restaurant where they eat kofta. We waited and watch until they
   completed, then our senior officer was called by the foreigner to the restaurant because the price he said is a cheat. I spoke with the
   owner, but he insisted that is the correct price for foreigners. We bring them to the hotel and watch that nothing happen. We post our
   man in front of the hotel to keep a good watch. "

   Yes, the restaurant said 14 "Eschiptian" pounds the meal. When it come to paying "big missunderstood" it is 40.- pounds. That is
   when we called the police in, everyone knew the price is too high. But nothing they could do too. Another Egyptian held his thumb up
   when we called the police. That cheating habit seems to be custom. One is nowhere safe from it. Now we let them write the price on
   a paper first and keep it as proof before paying.
   Checking into a "run downer" hotel (again). Price is US$ 15.-.A policeman protecting us outside.

Wednesday 29-8-07

7:00 am breakfast. There it was, punctual and plenty. Bread, cheese, egg, jam. what can we ask more?

     Driving out of El Daklah Oasis. Relived now, no police with us we cruised along in the morning sun, taking it easy. But
   what was this? An old Datsun single cab came closer from behind and remain in 50 m distance. In the rear mirror we realized, a
   civilian and two uniformed men in the car. Again police. The Farmer had been stopped to follow us! Forgive us but we got a bit upset
   now.
   Accelerating, 80km/h 100 km/h, the Datsun used to carry figs and dates is no speedy car. At 110km/h they were falling back and
   finally stopped. We slow down to look. Our binocular revealed the scenario. Bonnet open lots of steam coming out, the farmer raised
   his hands in desperation. One officer looking, one on the radio. Poor farmer, but lucky we, 50 km further, another roadblock. this
   time soldiers. "Passport, where you come, where you go, Nationality." At last we reached Oasis El Farafra. Norhayati got a cold so
   we went to the pharmacy, which was located a bit on the periphery. Returning to the car, just reversing we saw a policeman running
   towards us. "Where go?" he could hardly breath. This poor guy had to run from town to ask. "Baharia Oasis" he reported back to the
   office.

Out of town a roadblock again. Tourist police. Stop. 'To where?" Baharia, Baharia Baharia" . You guys it is getting too much!
He had to convey via the radio our destination, and get approval to let us pass. "Brmmm" we went.

Another one removing the blocking drum From field to home

Not much further was a palm groove with dates, we stopped. No police with us!

What fine taste. Fresh dates sweet as dream of your love, right from the palm tree. We bought 3 or 4 kilo for US$ 2.- The farmer
was polite and friendly, no cheat out here, this are hard working people and honest they are.

the reddish ones are ripe and sweet The farmer family picking and separating, first and second class

The farmers daughter "Arma" Irrigation from a well watering the palm groove

She has such a honest expression. We should have asked for an address. Maybe we could help her through education. But the
police stress allow hardly a sensefull thought. Maybe we get heir address.

      The "NEW VALLEY" is an attempt by the government to populate an area of 100.000 square kilometer, transfer Nile farmers to
   work on the land from the oasis Kahrga,to Daklah, to Farafra until Baharia. These are 1000 km.
   If you look closely at the pictures you see in the rear the land steep rising.

In Kharga oasis

relaxing after a long drive the chief mechanical workshop reconcilable on the oiled soil

     All oasis's lie in a depressions, surrounded by the actual desert, a 50 - 150m higher. As such the groundwater table reaches
   almost the surface and in some cases warm spring occur. Siwa Oasis , where Cleopatra once consented to dip her immaculate body,
   has 300 springs. Some with therapeutically value known also to Alexander the Great,. He bath there too.

It is impressive what the Government does here. Leveling he land, drilling for water, (we saw 5 water well drilling rigs) running new
power lines, in 10 years the desert will be green.

new power lines for towns and irrigation pumps grain fields and plantations in a not too distant future

     And there is much more! Oil and gas in the desert. This rig close to the road is number 84. That means there are 83 other rigs
   drilling somewhere in the land and maybe more. The government is determined to catapult the country out of poverty. We do not
   know how many oil companies are foreign owned. But Multinational petrol stations like SHELL we saw only a few.

Black gold in the desert

     One start to understand the iron hand of the Government now. They truly work on improvement of lives, on prosperity. 50 km outside
   of Cairo you see new apartment blocks 5 story high, spacious, with green gardens around, nothing is cramped. You can count them
   by hundreds. There is and should be no room for other ideas. Only forward! First and foremost is to get the country out of poverty!

   If, and we say if, the government continue this course, do not waste funds in wars or otherwise, it's road to the future of Egypt is gold
   plated. Democracy in such a development stage means little and can do more harm than good. That is what comes into ones mind.
   But back to our reality.
   Now without police we have been free to do and see what we want. A 40 km North of Farafra Oasis is the White Desert.

   An area where former coral reefs and seabed pushed up by violence in course of time, are exposed and form a fantastic landscape.
   There we want to stay a night hidden away, that no police can detect us.
   These pictures dear reader which may please your eyes, look like from another planet.

figures from space formed by wind and erosion

Snow like floor and Brunei flag in the white desert

Is it not a weird landscape???

our fine airline Is he watching over us?

wind actions forming the ring of sand The moon rising in a desolate land

the vehicle and the "driver"

All turned orange color in the evening sun. you see the shell in the limestone? Millions of years old

Thursday 30-8-07

A fine cool morning coffee and we packed, started JAMBO and drove out to the road and Baharia Oasis , 300 km away.

Not up to 10 minutes, a police car came pacing down the road in the opposite direction, and stopped. We waved, they allow us to
pass. One guy on the radio. They were surely searching for us, as we did not arrive on the next police block the evening before.

   That was also the end of police 'protection.' We entered Baharia Oasis a few hours later and searched for the office of the army
   security, requesting a permission to drive to Siwa oasis, 300 km west in the Libyan desert, but still in Egypt. Passports in hand
   Harun went into the compound, and was blocked immediately by two civilian. "You cannot see the officer, give me the passports"

Then the officer called him in. A square chin, sunglasses, behind a glass table. A serious man with a serious task. "You want to go
to Siwa, why?"

"To see the oasis where once your Cleopatra was bathing"

He dial a number talked in Arabic and handed the phone to Harun, who meanwhile got worried and second thoughts about the journey.

   "You can go only with a guide, that is tomorrow earliest" the telephone man said. "How is the road?" "Gravel road" " Ah" said
   Harun "we run out of time, and if the road is bad, we better postpone it. Thank you very much." And he was out of the door. These
   guys are beyond court and law. Once they think you are security risk, you are in big trouble.

We went towards Cairo and further to Alexandria, just 500 km away and ended another 80 km West at the beach of the Mediterranean
sea for a night in Hotel de la JAMBO.

Friday 30-8-07

The night was cool, a sea breeze from the North, held flies and temperature in check.

The Mediterranean sea and our home, JAMBO from Brunei

     We have crossed the African continent from the southernmost point, Cape Aghulas icy waters to the temperate of the Mediterranean
   sea and carry our message "Come and visit Brunei Darussalam" through 10 countries. It is here we must one more time thank you
   all who helped to make the journey possible, foremost Dato Hamdillah, then the gentlemen with a vision Sheik Jamaluddin and
   Sheik Abas for his personal generous donation, Pengiran Salleh the patron of 4 w/d Association and himself a lover of this sport, who
   did so much for us. The RBA especially Mr. Hj. Rosman. The Brunei Association of Freight forwarders, the President Hj Abd Saman
   (good business for you in Sudan) Kim Hoe Hardware, (our roof rack is solid and strong) , Mr. and Mrs Lim of Lim chartered
   accountant, Sim Hup Huat for their discounted tiers, a fine choice, they are still at 70%. (Although nagged out from sharp stones) and
   last but not least the female custom officer of Kuala Lurah and the restaurant lady who donated from their pocket in a giving gesture,
   truly embedded in our culture. The Members and President of Women Business Council. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs for their
   support, the police, the Land Transport Department and many more. Then this fellow from Indah Jadi in KK, Chan, who selected the
   engine and gearbox, among other items for a "performance JAMBO." He know what he was doing and he did his best. Thanks to
   Ignatius Stephen for the web page and Mahlon the trouble shooter and miracle man when it comes to the web. And
   Standard Chartered Bank! Their generous gesture to absorb B$ 4500.- was really like a rain shower in the desert.

Naturally we have spend much more from our pocket, but it is the gesture what counts and make us humble.
Terima kasih, thank you all!

But now our journey continues:

   Yes we have arrived at the Mediterranean. It was hard to find a spot with access to the sea. For 80 km West of Alexandria are only
   resorts for 'Eschiptians' out of Cairo. A tremendous building boom takes place. Soon we were on the way back to Alexandria
   itself.

Alexandria in Greek language and he himself in an round about

     Alexandria was one of the most important towns of the antic world. Today not much is left of the old, but one can find items of the
   Greece Roman and Egyptian culture in the Museum of Alexandria. In sleep, Alexander the Great had a vision that Homer the great
   Greek writer and philosopher appeared and described the very place for his future capital. Hence the name. He himself is supposed
    to be buried here, but the grave was never found.

   Almost all imports come now via Alexandria, it is a big, big, city. And the Alexandrian love the sea. Therefore it happen that
   on Fridays the beach is full with people, enjoying, swimming, chatting or smoking the water pipe, even as a woman. Why should one
   shy the sea if you are a female Muslim.? It does not say it in the revelations.

beachfront of Alex three ladies during a hot chat in cool waters

on the beach the bread seller keeping it warm and fresh on the bonnet

She enjoys a "smoke" with the water pipe

     The hotel prices were "High season" and so we moved on into the Nile delta and found, -luck is always with us- one clean neat and
   cheap hotel in Rosetta, lying on the Nile. Rosetta is called the town of a million palm trees as it is surrounded by Date Palm grooves.
   We went soon to rest.

Saturday 1-9-07

     After a fine sleep, looked out into the morning from our balcony in the 8th floor, over Rosetta, the sun dipped Rosettas houses in
   orange; the first passenger boats were crossing the Nile, a few fishermen came in with heir catch, the first pedestrians on the road,
   and at a distance the chimneys of brick factories discharge smoke drifted with the early breeze. Inside us we felt peace. Today we will
   update our travel story and just relax, thanking in prayer the Almighty for his protection.

New Rosetta, the brick factories on the horizon an arm of the Nile

     Money we changed with a goldsmith Harun asked, yes he was an "Arab Jew" he said. The bank could no change, they gave us
   someone to direct us to him. The girl refused to take any tip. We learned happily, the Egyptian out here are kind and very friendly
   people. No one is out for extra money or a cheat. Not here. The tailor wanted no money for his work, but we gave.

The old mans eyes were weak from a life's work. "Kerkedee" Harun usually drink not less than 3 glass at a time
He looked with a magnifier to find the needles hole

The "kerkedee" a hibiscus tea drunken cold, is very refreshing and cost one pound, and only one pound. You get the change
prompt and correct.

Sunday 2-9-07

     This morning we head to Cairo. On the Delta highway, used by donkeys, cars in opposite direction for a shortcut, by people,
   bicycles, and Egyptians drivers always in a hurry. The very, very slow ones, the vehicle we would describe as scrap on the overtaking
   lane, the minibuses which stop on the center lane (and all traffic behind them) not at the side. The big bus who cuts in before you,
   because his stop is close by, that only your hard breaking avoids the collision. (He expect that). 200 km of concentrated torture on
   the steering wheel, one should have four eyes, one in front, two for the side-and one for the rear mirror. But it helps only so much.
   On the way to Giza pyramids while waiting in the traffic, we got twice a Bum and a slight push, another car hit our bumper. He did
   not bother. Finally checking into President Hotel in Zamalek, an island in Cairo, close to our Embassy. As said Giza is 2 hours
   driving time away it was rush hour. We sitting in an air-condition car had little problem compared to the pedestrian waiting for a bus
   or crossing on the way home.
   There are white zebra markings, but no one stop. Every small niche is immediately used by a vehicle. Suddenly we were behind a
   completely dented automobile, an old Fiat from 1970. Inside two women driving rather strange, first in front on our lane, then drifting
   to another ,we close behind them. The traffic kept their distance. We wondered, no car was near them, why do they enjoy such
   privilege of free space around them? They made some maneuvers I can tell you. From the overtaking lane to the parking lane where
   they almost run a bicycle bread man down. and back to the center. They found always a hole just to get through. We behind them,
   were fast now! That must be the correct way to drive in Cairo I thought. When finally they stopped I could read below the Arabic, an
   English writing on the sticker:

"Ahmed bin Ahmed Driving school".

She was a learner! That is why others kept distance.

Cairo Traffic and the almost run down Bread supplier

Finally we reached GIZA with the famous pyramids..

     The three main pyramids are 5000years old and contain the burial chambers of 3 pharaohs, Cheops, Chephren and Mykerinos.
   Over time there have been and still are speculations, they have been build by aliens as humans could impossible construct such a
   monument. But likely is, they are just burial chambers and eternal resting places of the pharaohs. All chambers have been found by
   tomb robbers before present discoveries. As such, besides the empty sarcophagus nothing was found.. Perhaps they conceal more
   hidden rooms and secrets not yet discovered. Or how about this? In the chambers of the pyramid of Mykerinos was a big and
   beautiful sarcophagus made from basalt. In the 19th century, the Brits removed it and intended to ship it to Great Britain. The vessel
   sunk before the Spanish coast, the sarcophagus with it. And there is the legend about queen Nitokris of the 6th dynasty. Her smaller
   pyramid is cursed; the folks whisper. "In clear nights one can see a naked women wandering around the pyramid, among the stone
   and rubble...."

The pyramid, the sphinx and the traveler 5000 year between the construction and the flying flag

The Giza Plateau in the forefront the sphinx

     The sphinx, with 73 m is a colossal figure, a human head on a lion body. He was buried over centuries by sand drifting from the
   desert. That is why he is so preserved. The Arab call him "Abu el Hud" father of fear. As old as the pyramids themselves, no one
   knows actually when the sphinx was carved out of the rock and what it is to represent. Books say it is a sculpture of king Chefren.
   But- what about his? There is the story of the young prince, Thutmosis. To him appeared the sphinx in a dream and said" Thutmosis if
   you free me from the burden of sand, I will make you pharaoh, and king over Egypt." A Stele, placed by Thutmosis between the
   pawns of the sphinx tell us today that he became King of Egypt after he cleared the half buried sculpture. This deal worked. The
   nose is missing since a shooting exercise by the Mamlukes which, as many others have been here in the course of time. Still one is
   fascinated by just looking at it.

Monday 3-9-07

I was a bit nervous. Today there is the presentation in our Embassy. "Come and visit Brunei Darussalam". We will meet the press and
officials from the Ministry of Tourism, representatives of travel agents , all organized, to listen to me. My presentation has to be good.

   The welcome in the Embassy by His Excellence the Ambassador Mr Haji Muharram bin Piah, the Wife of His Excellence and the
   Embassy officials, they made me feel like coming home; it was warm and exceptional friendly. By 11:00 am, all had arrived in the
   nicely decorated reception room, next to me sitting his excellence who gave with his presence moral support.

True interest of the Egyptian media

    I spoke about my beloved country, of the green and the peace we enjoy. Recommending it as a "holiday destination for families
    with children" as we have plenty playing grounds along the beaches. Kids can enjoy in Brunei.
   As an "adventure destination", for trekking and mountain climbing as Brunei has in its vicinity all what an adventurer likes, including
   caves of which the longest over 70 km.
   Then of Brunei as a "sport destination", for sailors and golfers, for scuba divers and joggers, "why not a run in the evergreen
   rainforests, and pick some flowers on the way for your loved one? here in Egypt you have sand only.
   " I spoke about Brunei as an "educational holiday destination". For biology students, for nature lovers, bird- and butterfly
   watchers. Then of an "investment destination" in manufacturing industry and agriculture.

Fine Brunei Malay cuisine the adventure couple

What great reception it was!

     Lots of questions came afterwards, there was great interest. Our Trans Africa travel got also considerable attention. When after
   about one hour we all enjoyed the prepared and arranged snacks, "a touch of Brunei cuisine", the Nasi Goreng, the chicken boxing
   with spices I missed so long, followed by Malay traditional cakes, (Kueh Melayu) was like 7th heaven for us. Is this the food you
   eat in your country?" one reporter asked. "Yes and much more". "It is delicious" were his commends.
   Cameras clicked, talk was plenty, and when finally the reception was over everyone had the feeling it was an informative and
   productive event. "I came as a tourist said Harun, that was 23 years ago. You see how beautiful the country is.." They all laughed.

   I believe there were 3 newspaper at the invitation. "GO AND VISIT BRUNEI DARUSSALM" should be their headline, when the story
   appears. Brunei brochures with the e.mail contact of Brunei tourism we had with us for 24,000 km, looking still presentable,were
   distributed.
   Jambo our vehicle with Gadong registration and sandstorm polished number plates, had, together with me a few photo flashes for
   the press. They were interested indeed. Also His Excellence the Ambassador wife and staff consented to join for a group photo.

The fare well pictures with me two of our Al Azahar students

By 2:00pm was time to leave. Not before cakes and Mee and Nasi Goreng and soft drink was stuffed for a Tapau on the way.

     His Excellence the Ambassador gave Harun his own and personal tasbih, together with a Koran." I am deeply honored said he and
   will use and treasure this extraordinary present for his entire life."
   When a doa selamat was read by Mr Abdullah Hj Mohamad, the Attaché Education and culture, all joined in. We felt like family
   members, it was hard to go. "Thank you" we said;" thank you very very much for what you have organized for us". Foremost His
   Excellency the Ambassador Mr Hj Muharram Bin Piah, then Pengiran Kamaludin Pengiran Abdul Wahab, third secretary, and Pg
   Salimin Pg Md Daud the second secretary.
   And if you dear reader are citizen of another nation, where such a hospitality is unknown, just remember, you can experience it too.
   As a welcomed tourist in Brunei.
   Everyone waved when, with a sad and heavy hearth we drove out of the Embassy, struggling through
   traffic towards Ismailia town, 80 km away, as our adventures continue.

The Egyptian Press Al Ahram, Alam Al Y'oum and Daily Star

     Now we are on the way to East, the gentle waves of the Mediterranean Sea block our route to North and Europe. Poseidon god of the
   sea, commands us to go around his kingdom. Via Sinai to Jordan, bypassing the Jewish state, created on Palestinian land.
   Reaching Ismailia, we stay in a hotel at a "high floor for a high price as this is the "high season" the receptionist explained. We both
   were suffering from sever headache as a result of the polluted air in Cairo, and went early to rest.
   Ismailia is a young town, only founded in 1860 during the construction of the Suez canal

Seen in Ismailia the mosque dome had these 4 platforms, directed after the compass

Tuesday 4-9-07

"Breakfast for a king and queen!" To recover some of the hotel rate. Finally we left the restaurant much to the relief of the restaurant
manager, who passed frequently our table, looking down at the plates which added up and up, soon after we were on our way.

     Crossing from Ismailia to Sinai and then driving along the coast the yellow line road South until we turned East towards the
   monastery of Katherine, over the peace bridge, a joint project of the Japanese and Egyptians, which span the Suez canal. The bridge
   is really an engineering marvel. Slim, tall and wide. Containerships passing through, look like toys.

See the container ship passing through? View from the bridge, 4 ships in the canal

This desert monster is a containership in the Suez canal, is at least 300 m long

   The Suez canal has its own history.
   Old Greek and Latin scriptures tell us that already 2000 B.C. a canal was planned by king Sestrosis I. Pharaoh Nacho about 600B.C,
   connected the Eastern arm of the Nile with one of the lakes. The Romans later gave the idea up. Napoleons army engineers made
   the first detailed planning's as Napoleon intended, by opening the Suez route, to strike a deadly blow to British trading interests with
   the Far East, as they got to sail via south Africa, If he controls the canal for France, goods become much cheaper as the route to the
   East is shorter. The Brits resisted the construction but it was still build between 1859 and 1869 .Honorable reader let me ask you:
   Is in politics not all a tragic game of "I want more power and money?"

   When Nasser, president of Egypt in 1950ties was informed, that the Americans -contrary to agreed arrangements-will not contribute
   to the construction of the Aswan dam, and the Brits and World bank withdraw too. (pressured?) he got upset. They are playing with
   Egypt! He nationalized the Suez canal, to direct the money into Egypt's treasure as their share was only 10% before.

   But that was the golden goose for the foreign money collectors! Every ship was plain cash! That should not be! When the Brits and
   French (shareholders of the Users Association of the canal), seeing their easy money going down the Suez (drain), bombed the
   canal, (if we cannot get money, you too shall not) and send paratroopers to Port Suez. It was "pure coincidence" that at the same
   time the Israeli army marched until the canal to dig themselves in for a very, very long stay.

   But the big two had other plans. Pressurized by America and Russia, (no share in the canal company?) the three aggressors had to
   withdraw. Finally, the shareholders got away with 23 million Egyptian pounds as settlement and the lucky soldier with a missing limp
   only. It was a (squeezed?) generous payment "after all no more quits or francs in the future." Two wars followed, but today all fees of
   the canal, build on Egyptian soil goes into the pocket of the government. Two years it took to remove all bombed wrecks and since
   1975 ships glide graceful through the desert again. Thinking and discussing all the events, a 100 km further South, we turned away
   from the coast on the road leading into Sinai and the Katherine Monastery.

Heading now Eastwards into rock and gravel what a landscape desolate and beautiful

   Sinai, the name comes from the Moon god Sin, is barren land. In winter snowcapped mountains, in spring and autumn torrential
   rains rush down the Wadis. Inhabitants are Bedouins, trying to live their traditional lifestyle, which becomes more and more difficult
   with the economic developments around them.

The Bedouins have literarily to fight for a little green with deep hand dug wells

Somewhere in the stony emptiness we slept, looking from the roof rack bed into the sky searching for UFO's and falling stars
until the eyes closed for a dreamless night.

Wednesday 5-9-07

The morning was cool and clear.

Hidden from view after a night full of stars A Wadi just right for our 4 w/d Association

     "What is a Wadi?" you may ask. It is dry riverbed, a remain from ancient times when there was more rain, it floods still today
   when heavy rains occur in the mountains. Then a water wave rushed down and disappears in the gravel as fast as it came. It happen
   in winter and spring We drove such a Wadi up, following the tracks you see on the picture. On the way sheep and goats nibbling on
   heaven knows what, as we saw no green whatsoever, but a dry branch here a root there, they get along. Watched over by women.

the herds lady and her livestock

Driving further, the tracks became less, in the end barley visible and we ended on a small field with systematically erected stones
A Bedouin graveyard.

plants over the graves are only in summer dry Nearby this basin to water and care for the plants

     Dear reader do not go over these pictures easily but reflect the meaning. The Bedouin had all his life to fight for green, build wells for
   a meager life. Is it not that now when he goes to the other side, the relatives prepare him a one time green pasture under which he
   rests? As a sign of paradise with springs in evergreen land he never saw in this life but dreamed often, especially when his child was
   sick from malnutrition and crying ?

He had to work hard to produce some date palms, dig wells, where the groundwater is 15 m below. In such an Oasis he lives, has
family and raise children.

Four little Bedouins An oasis, encircled by rock and nothing but rock

Do you see any joy in this face? The struggle is written into their faces

   We wanted to see the Katharine monastery. Building work commenced in 548 A.D. on the place where prophet Musa met the burring
   bush. (according to the Bible). The encircled area contains also a mosque build in the 10th century. On the Gebel Musa received
   Musa the 10 commandments from the Hebrew God. Since about 1500 years, men withdraw from daily life into solitude here, living a
   simple life in prayers searching for a signal, a whisper, a flash, any sign from the Almighty. All desires of the flesh are abandoned.
   They pray to HIM, rendering their soul and look inside themselves for the perfect peace.

The monastery and the tourists en mass

   Every day tourists arrive by busloads to look at the monastery, take a photo home, some maybe hoping to get here a small insight
   into the mysteries by just wandering through the monastery and starring at or touch a bush on the place where, it is said, 3000
   years ago Prophet Musa saw his Almighty. "It could be theoretically that just now Prophet Musa might appear or even an angel"
   But as spiritual empty as they came, they leave again into a short and often meaningless life, hasting for material gains throughout
   and forget that we all will - one day - face HIM and the question:
   "What did you do with the life I gave you?."

   The monastery was never besieged or attached nor damaged. Monks from here went to Mina to see our Prophet Mohammed to beg
   for his protection of the place and he granted it. The document with his signature is preserved in the monastery as you see in the
   picture. No Muslim ruler in the turbulent hundreds of years which followed, dared to touch it. In 1100 A.D. a Mosque was build in too.
   Unfortunately we were not allowed to go inside.

The document signed by our Prophet view of the Mosque erected in the 11th century

the place of the burning bush A painting of Miriam holding the key

To climb Gebel Musa and stay overnight was on our plan, but plenty tourists went up therefore no peace for reflection or prayers.
We cancelled it

Thursday 6-9-07

We left early eastwards to the Red Sea as we wanted to stay in Dahab a sea resort and village on the coast. Arriving at the junction
decided just for safety, to check and perhaps get the tickets for our ferry to Aqaba, Jordan, first.

A tarred road wound its way like snake through the narrow valleys, on both side mountains, bare rocks in many colors where no
plant would find enough nutrition to survive. In the air a falcon sailing in the thermal airflow created by the uprising sea breeze.

turbulent geological history exposed Nuweba port

     After the last curve the mountains retreated and exposed a view in to the turquoise blue of the "red sea" and down small visible,
   Nuweba town and the port. At the horizon Eastwards the mountainous coast of Saudi Arabia was clearly visible. 2 ships were on
   their way. southbound. I did not know from which port they sailed. Was it Aqaba, Jordan,or port Elat of the Jewish state just next
   by. The port was easy to find, so the ticket office, although all signs were in Arabic. People lined up on a counter behind waiting cars.
   Not even completely halted two youth spurted to our vehicle, pliers and screwdriver in hand. "did they see problem on our car and
   were here to help immediately?" Harun wondered and looked under the car, perhaps a water leak, or something hanging down? No,
   nothing of such. They were after the Egyptian number plates, to get some money for removing them. Ours were tied with wires, no
   cash to get here.

   'When is a ferry to Aqaba, sir?" Harun asked when reaching finally the window. "By 4 pm." Wow, it was 1 pm, that is perfect timing
   by coincidence. I was smiling, we go today." 2 tickets and a payment for the car please, how much?" The slow ferry cost for 2 person
   and car US$ 303.-. " You said slow. Is there another option?"

   The fast ferry, cost you", his finger hammering the calculators, "cost you US$ 338.- and it takes you only one hour to Jordan. And will
   leave by 4:00pm". "Harun one hour, only small difference in the amount, we take the fast ship" and paid. That was more good news,
   we are truly lucky today.

   "Where to go for the 4:00pm fast ferry?" Just down to the port. "shukran and by, by". Down we drove and there was already 3 lines
   on waiting cars. It was 1.15pm. neatly we lined up, sitting and thought in a few hours we are in Jordan. How quick all things happen.
   Next by our neighbor, an Egyptian with wife and kids.

in the Nuweba line up

      By 2:00 we ask him: " Hi, when is the fast ferry, they must soon load if they want to be punctual" "Should be at 4:00pm." he
   said. That was all too good to be true. We sat now in our camping chairs awaiting the movement clearing procedure and loading.
   "This evening we eat "Chinese" in Aqaba" I'm longing for curry and some veggies" and for the next 15 minutes we described to each
   other the taste we are to experience. "And some prawns" said Harun and leaned back in the chair his face in a smile. Already enjoying
   in his imagination the mouthwatering chili prawns. We were eagerly awaiting the loading.

   3:00pm. All was quiet on the waterfront. " We should move by now, if the ship will sail at 4:00pm;but maybe there is a small delay."
   wondered Harun. Never mind, we still can make it to the Chinese. Even if we leave at 5:00pm. It is only one hour sailing!" Just not to
   delay the eventual loading, we had packed our chairs into JAMBO and ignition key in the lock, ready to move.
   4:00 pm the actual departure time had arrived. All was quiet. we put our chairs out again, a bit frustrated.
   5:00 pm. We had packed the camping chairs into the car and after a while, as nothing happening, out again but refraining from eating
   as this evening we wanted to be truly hungry at the Chinese restaurant in Aqaba.
   6:00 pm. Two police officers passed. With relieve we thought this is the beginning of action, loading and sailing but not so. They were
   on the way to a restaurant and we stopped them. " Gentlemen good afternoon, please when is the fast ferry leaving?" By 7:00pm!"
   That is finally good news." We are leaving. Packing our chairs into JAMBO the third time, closing and locking all doors we got
   ready to move. Passport documents all handy available. The wind had reversed meanwhile, falling from the mountains in gusts driving
   sand up and plastic bottles over the tarmac as if played with by unseen spirits.
   The amount of cars had meanwhile tripled, and out of three lines became six, the last with one side tiers on the pedestrian walkway
   already close to the house walls. No additional line had space anymore. After a half hour in the car seat we went out again looking at
   the port gate. It remained closed.

8:00pm all was quiet on the waterfront, no officer seen, the port gate is still closed. Some Arab family took a rest lying down with
pillows, comforting crying children and just taking a rest, ignoring the dust whirled up the road from the desert.

Resting and waiting Umrah pilgrims at the Nuweba port

"What is the camel doing here on the port, between concrete asphalt and cars? A She camel walked along, graceful checking one
rubbish bin after another for something to feed on. "That is weird" I thought.

   9:00 pm I went to the closed port gate. "Sorry to trouble you security officer but when is the fast ship leaving to Jordan? We are
   waiting now 7 hours! "Maybe tomorrow? He said. "Whaaat?" "Wait" he grab the phone and talked to the other side., hanging up he
   said: "By 11:00 pm."

"Thank you officer" I was relieved. No more Chinese food, but at least we go in 3 hours and one hour sailing, by 2:00pm latest we
should be asleep somewhere outside Aqaba.

   11:00 pm. all quiet on the waterfront. I went back to the gate officer" You said...." Just wait," he interrupted. Please tell me when my
   fast ship will sail?"    "Be patient" was all I got. Sitting there in the night and waiting we had to realize, tonight no more Chinese food
   in Aqaba, but dry left over breadcrumbs and a tin of sardine from from JAMBO store.

Friday 7-9-07

   00:30 am, finally a few policemen show up and all cars started, ready to jump onto the ship if needed. The procedure was fair. the
   policeman allow two cars per lane, blocking with their body the third driver. You cannot run a policeman over, can you? The Arabs
   although impatient had to wait. Some came from the back to argue with mouth hand and feet why they have to be first and jump the
   line, but to no avail. Cars slowly start to move and by 1:30 am we were through the gate. First check: ticket, passports. Done.
   "Where to go next?" The question were irrelevant as one could see already a 20 man long line in front of a window. Here on get the
   first paper to return the number plate.
   Counter after counter all travelers had the same procedure. We just followed the swarm. The check and check again procedures, at
   least altogether about 12 times, took until 4:00am.With the help of a policeman. He guided us through until finally saying, "here is
   the last paper, keep it" It was a handwritten note signed by the boss. "The police will take it before you enter the ship. Go now to
   immigration to stamp your passport.

   In front of the hall, dozens men and women sleeping on the floor. Inside crowded, nothing but confusion. No Immigration officer yet.
   We managed our way through to the widow and waited. The officer came by 3:00am we got our passport stamped and rushed back
   to the car. Our helping angel arrived again expecting his tip. It was generous, US$10.-
   Then he asked:" what ship you have." Off course the fast one, just tell us where to go now" and we show him the ticket. He spoke to
   his radio first and said: 'Your ship is coming by 11:00 am tomorrow from Aqaba." The ship is not waiting to be loaded?"
  "Just wait and sleep" and he was gone. Next to us a small footstall selling to the waiting passengers.
   From his radio tape a female sad vocal loudly proclaiming her pain it seemed :"habibbi shukran habibbi;...;"Whatever it meant it nerved
   at this moment. I looked at the watch it was 4:00 am Friday morning. we are still in Egypt. Not washed, we crawl into Hotel de la
   JAMBO. Closing the eyes trying to get some sleep. From the food stall came that begging and whining song "Habbibi shukran
   Habibbi" while the owner was dreamed his dream of "habibbi" with open eyes.

   Around the 5th time of "Habibbi shukran" I fell asleep. Better Harun's snoring than that song I thought while my eyes went heavy and
   the imagination took over with rendang and nasi goreng kampung, the curry prawns, all paraded so clearly visible that I almost could
   smell it.
   A bang shock us up. "I just fall to sleep" I shouted to whoever disturbed me now. It was the policeman." Do you want to go to the slow
   ferry? It is leaving now,"
   Yes please, yes!" "Come. follow me. Driving, we follow him passing waiting vehicles until in front of the ship which was almost full, just
   having a little space left for two or three cars. He took our tickets for the fast ferry, talked to a ship officer which waved us in and as
   one of the last we were on board  bound for Jordan.

I looked at the watch. It was 6:30 am, the sun was rising over Saudi Arabia, the land of our prophet.

Nuweba port "We are sailing, we are sailing through the waters..." goes a song

Never mind, slow or fast, just getting out was a blessing. The ship was full with pilgrims to Mecca laying crisscross with blankets
they had with them, wrapped in former white linen, men and women snoring, taking the rest after a sleepless night.

Exhausted pilgrims

   Full steam ahead into the morning! Slowly Egypt sunk back into the distance. Recalling it I thought:" It was a nice time we had there
   despite the problems with police and the traffic. The Islam monuments of which Egypt has many, we ignored as another countries,
   have much to show.

Arriving after 4 hours we clear through customs and immigration in another three hours. Time means nothing here I thought while lining
up for Jordanian formalities. By 2:30 we were out of the port.

   " Where is here a Chinese restaurant?" A half hour before closing the cook made us Garlic chilly prawns, Mushroom veggies, spring
   rolls, and curry shrimps. It was a feast for a king. The belly full the spirit high, we were on our way to Wadi Rum but only after
   JAMBO got his meal too. This time it was Jordan diesel.

And if you, dear reader are not bored by now, click Jordan-Syria, where our adventures continue.