MONDAY 30-8-2010

   Canada; the land of dreams for millions of hungry around the world. A huge slice of North America belongs too her. The history begins  
   with the Paleo Indians which lived here already 10.000 years ago as proven trough archeological investigations,they were coming
   50.000 years ago across the Bering land bridge from Asia. And when around 16.000 years ago the land ice begun to melt,
   people could move further south and east.
   Ice hunter/gatherer left flaked stone tools in various locations and remains of large butchered animals too. Not
   Columbus discovered the Americas; The Icelandic saga claimed that one Bjarni Herjolfsson was blow off course in summer of 985 or
   986 AD and landed on the east coast of Canada. Then came Leif Ericson around 1001 AD, who landed on three places according to
   the saga, as archeological evidence was found in Newfoundland.
   It was not until the 15th century, when along the Atlantic coast Europeans showed up to settle. And as with all colonization's, wars
   were fought for dominance and booty in fur and minerals, followed by treaties. The French with the Brits, the American and the
   Spaniards the Portuguese and so forth.
   "Expel the Indians," was the call of the Brits in 1755 and 12.000 natives, actually owners of the land, were driven out and relocated as
   far as Louisiana and Saint Domingue. Quarrel and treaties, broken by wars, patched up by other treaties. They followed one another
   until in recent times Canada evolved with 13 provinces and dual language, namely English and French. It was along and sometimes
   bloody road.

   The border procedure at the Canadian side was friendly and swift. "You are traveling around the world?" he had read the logo
   "25 years Brunei Independence Expedition"

   "Yes sir". "Do you carry any firearms with you?" "No Sir." "Welcome to Canada."
   And that was it; we drove on. The weather was fine, with sunshine and few clouds. The signboard indicated that we have it not far
   anymore. JAMBO'S bearings front and now at the rear right side had to be replaced. The weight of the roof rack, about 600 kg, and
   the bad roads took it's toll. What a strong machine we had.

           
                               on the way                                                                       towards downtown Vancouver

   When George Vancouver left England in April 1791 sailing to the Pacific, he entered the straight of Juan de Fuca in April 1792 to
   survey in and outlets of the coast. Hence the town bears his name. And English is also "British Columbia".
   Why not "Spanish Columbia?" They were here too. That sounds weird no? What we mean is the country got to find independence
   from a name also.
   Back in Arizona honorable reader you might remember David, in Globe town who helped us out. Well, he had the tel. number of
   another fellow, Steve, here in Vancouver, whom we should contact in case we have car trouble.
   The GPS directed us to his workshop. Again a few land cruisers standing around. "Off course I have the spares". Gladly, we checked
   into a roadside hotel for the night.  

   TUESDAY 31-8-2010

   Yesterday sun, today pouring rain. That is Vancouver.  JAMBO was taken care off and we rented an Economy car for the day. 

      
                        Steve's workshop                                                                       and new bearings for JAMBO

   On a rainy day there is not much to be seen except the East Hasting road on a particular stretch. Quiet close to down town left and
   right, groups of people. The Junkies. Although Cannabis is illegal, medical applications are tolerated.
   Slowly passing we shot these pictures from the addicts, people without hope of a decent life. The HIV infections grew steadily, crack
   cocaine and heroin are being used too.

                    
                               a rainy day in Vancouver                                                                       E.Hasting street 
  
                  
                                               sitting along the buildings and consuming drugs 

             
               medical cannabis is sold in E.Hastings                                                  homeless and addicted                     

   Here they arrive from all corners of Canada, as the consumption of Cannabis is tolerated. These few pictures give you an insight into
   the suffering of those addicts. Their live revolves only how to get the next "shot" or a "junk." Men become dealers to get the money,
   women prostitute themselves for the same. They are lost souls, without any meaning for life. What often started as a  "come on,
   try it"  in schools, ends up here in East Hasting.

                                    
                                                   a girl and a boy                                                         she is lost

          
                  The pedestrian walkway is their home                                                       lining up for a free meal

   One feels bitter looking at them. Cursing at the same time the guys who make money from such misery. We did not stop being afraid
   someone would challenge our presence. This is their world, we are intruders.

   By 5:00pm JAMBO was ready to be collected, work all done. We returned our rented vehicle paid  Can $ 777.- exactly, and went on
   for another night in a hotel.

   WEDNESDAY 1-9-2010

   The highlight of today was a visit at our relatives. Claudia the daughter of Harun and her kid Karina, 8 years old and now my relative
   too. She is very smart for her age and full of fantasy and creativity.

      
                                 "Karina"                                                         Mother Claudia, Karina and the proud and happy "Opa"
 
   However time was pressing and we left soon towards North, passing along the West coast, until night when we camped on a public
   ground. The warming fire held mosquitoes at bay. By 9:00 we fell into a sound sleep undisturbed by man or bear.

     
          The pacific west; forest covered, with deep inlets                                                   alone in the campground  

   THURSDAY 2-9-2010

   Early up, it was cold. The first sunrays exposed in the mountains the messenger of winter, snow. Less then three months all green
   will be covered by a white blanket.

       
                               spectacular view                                                                        a nature made pyramid

          
                    First sunrays penetrating the mist                                                         A clear and cold mountain lake

   We drove the whole day Northbound. Distances are so immense here. And as everyday, before nightfall we checked into a
   campground, sat down for a meager dinner out of a tin and afterwards went to bed. Somehow we left one front door open for unknown
   reasons. That very night Harun woke me at around 1:00 am." Can you hear it?" There was a scratching and a nibbling heard but we
   were not clear from where. When the light was on, it was quiet. Looking around, nothing to be seen. "Light off" and the scratching
   begun again. Harun was worried; Have we not heard about beavers nagging on the insulation of electrical cables?
   He went out to check the engine. Nothing; and now all was still. No sooner we had switched the light off, the nagging and scratching
   started again. "What the heck is that?" We were both up now and searched under the dashboard, behind the seats, anywhere we
   could look. It was still. "That cannot be inside" was our conclusion and we ignored the further noise. With the daylight, the scratching
   was still on, we looked and searching checked every corner, opening all avenues and niches.
   Until we found her. A giant mouse had come into the car, looking for food or perhaps a sleep in my sleeping bag. Squeezed in the
   rear door she ended her life.

   FRIDAY 3-9-2010

   Up North of British Columbia is an old Gold rush town Barkerville. A guy, Billy Barker found gold and struck rich here in 1862; that 
   was the beginning of Barkerville; Still today it remains a thriving place with many colorful characters parading the streets in old
   costumes - for tourists. Historic buildings are preserved and maintained, Including the China part of town.

                  
                                  The barber and the doctor                                                               the school mistress

             
                  a household, the center was the oven                                                     for a dollar, one could have a dance...

       ...and if she was one of the flitter girls arriving from the East, lured by Barkerville riches in the miners pockets, he could have it all.
   The one or other, working hard day after day, went against his inner warning to a dance parlor, "just to drink one only" . But the one
   became ten, animated by girls, and at the end, he ended upstairs in bed with one of the available traders of their own body, dirty as
   they were. Awakening in the morning, his gold pouch of nuggets empty, but the head full of guild and regret. "What a dummy I'm, no
   more, this was the last;" until a few weeks later, when he was seen there again.

                   
                           Painless?  empty promises                                                                     "I got him"

   The Chinese were separated in the town. But white miners and families went often for cure to the Chinese shops instead of a white
   doctor.

              

   At the side there was water basin and for a few dollars one could buy sand which suppose to contain gold. A prospector, Clive,
   teaches how to pan gold." Where to look for gold?" I asked; and rightly he said, "Gold is there where you find it" meaning: "Go, look
   for it." But first he teaches me how to use a pan. Sway it gentle, remove the bigger stones first, play with water, that the gold heavier
   than stones, will sink to the bottom.

     
              The teacher washing gold with me                                                        and the result  three "junks" of gold

   We went on again towards North, along the peace river valley. The view was spectacular. Pine forest as far as one could see.

          
                                   Peace river                                                                        Endless Canadian highway

   Man must sleep! By 6:00pm we checked into a camping ground, bought for Can $ 5.- a bundle of firewood and wrote on the web site
   until rain started again.

   SATURDAY 4-9-2010

   It was an uneventful day, only driving. Sometime shone the sun, most of the time rain. We reached Ford Nelson an oil and gas town
   by evening. The wind was blowing the cold rain against our faces. No good weather.

        
      after days of the same,  it becomes a boring landscape        in Fort Nelson, see the blue trailer? Schlumberger the oil company

     SUNDAY 5-9-2010

   In Fort Nelson the  weather is bad; cold and rainy.
   Early morning cars rumble along unpaved roads on the way to their working sites. Foreigners dominate then population.
   Foremost Asian, Filipinas and Koreans. Over 40 gas fields have been discovered and surely more are to come.
   Despite that, the diesel price is a "luni" (Can dollar) or more a liter.

   With the USA among the costliest of over 60 countries. Who rips off the people? Taxes or oil companies? Or both?
   In Libya (once we were there) the diesel price runs at about 3 cents a liter. That helps to preserve the long distance travelers cash,
   something always in short supply. Later, while driving, the clouds cleared; and since the road to West, towards lake Watson was
   fine, we had a scenic drive.

                                      
                                                                          The morning mist over the valley

               

   The signboard gives an indication of distances here in Canada. Next rest 350 km away. But when the day is nice, travelling gets easy.
   Hill up, hill down bend left bend right, that was the day; with an exception of a straight part of road; and a single engine aircraft which
   had landed there. Emergency. No fuel anymore. By radio the pilot had contacted his friend and the message went over the airwaves:"
   Bring me 40 liter aircraft juice to the straight stretch of the Alaska highway next to the Liar river. Rush, and a beer and a burger.
   I wait." When we arrived the friend had come already. "Do you want some diesel?" we shouted over, knowing well he could not use it.
   He only looked serious.

       
      the beauty of a bush aircraft:  fly anywhere (if you have fuel)                             land anywhere (if you have none)

   Honorable reader as you were following our adventures you may have realized that not always, events go as planned. That alternatives
   had to be taken into account such as repairs which, even with all the sweet talking of discount, have their price. No wonder that the
   budget is shrinking beyond the planned expenditure. Therefore smart as we are, we decided to top our finances with gold and
   purchased (with discount, that is understood) a pan for gold panning. "Gold is where you find it" said  the teacher in Bakerville. So I
   went down to the "river of promise" and as learned, washed gravel by the kilos until my fingers were stiff from the cold water.

                                   
                                              trying hard                                      icy fingers after 20 minutes, and no gold yet

   But we do not give up easily, we will try somewhere else. Throughout USA and Canada the favored fast food is the burger. With French
   fries or sweet potato salad, (they put sugar into it) which anyone with a taste cannot eat.

      
                  The mountain lovely to look at                                                    "burger burger burger" can't they cook?

   We sat down in the Toad river lodge. "What do you like to eat honey?" asked the oversized waitress. My finger went the menu down.
   Burger with cheese, burger with cheese and meat, burger meat only, burger with egg and so on. Harun refused the potato salad
   which had a load of sugar in it. "One spoon of it, could sweeten my coffee" he complained. "Hon" we get it supplied from outside it is
   not homemade" she excused.
   Distinguished reader lets together face the dilemma. They use a bun, call it double deck or even triple deck, stuff anything in-between,
   like mixed meet, topped with cedar cheese, then comes a leave of green salad, a slice of tomato, then a barbeque sauce, all in the
   lower deck. The upper contain French fries with an onion rings overlay. You cannot get it into the mouth anyhow but what is worst,
   these people have no more taste. A separate tomato salad smells and taste good, green salad with Balsamico, oregano and olive oil
   tastes, minced meat fried with some garlic, salted and pepper is a fine meal. These burgers have no separation. All is there but
   without any taste. And they love it! On all our travels we never see so many oversized humans as in the USA ,and here to a lesser
   extent, too. Thanks to their daily intakes on soft drinks and such food. 

                            
                                                                                It cannot get any better

                       
                                     the mirror of nature                                                                 looks like a volcano eruption

   The next time we stopped we were at a herd of Bison, grazing next to the road. They did not bother about us.

           
                          all grazing in one direction                                                       a bull; what a beauty of strength

   Then the lonely elk next by grazing, a bit further the deer jumping on the road.

              
                                       a moose                                                                                    and a deer

   Somewhere around 5:00 pm we reached the Yukon, leaving British Columbia behind. On the camping place I cooked a celebratory
   meal this evening. Have we not over 2000 Canadian kilometers behind us?

        

   The feast of the evening was Brunei Mee Goreng, spiced up with eggs, fried onion and garlic. On top chili sauce. That was something
   for our liking and for these "no good birds" too. Sitting at the branches in safe height they starred at us and our fine noodles. Until
   such time when the first sailed down onto the rim of the "white worms pot" and pulled one out, to fly up with it, consuming it in safe
   height. "Ah you fellows think these are Asian worms?" 

       
                              They presumably had never eaten such soft, tender "worms"

                  
                      orderly, even picking from the table                                         " I take what I can get"

   MONDAY 6-9-2010

   Non of these rascals was seen at the breakfast table. We speculated; Was it, they were still full from the Asian white worm meal?
   Or, they encountered a diarrhea afterwards and their little poop-holes shot like rocket motors, that these lofty creatures had problem
   to hold onto the branches sleeping the full belly out? Maybe the one or other flying off like a kite on an extra strong "ruums".
   We do not know.

   TUESDAY 7-9-2010

   Last night we entered a provincial camp ground, to stay for the night. You have to pay a fee usually 12.- Canadian "lunis" (dollars).
   You fill a form, put your car registration and the camp ground number on it, and drop it together with your fee into a box. Firewood is
   free; and we needed it. Harun woke me around 3:00 am. "Yati, Yati look" "What?" Northern light". There were streams of vertical rays
   shooting into the sky. Unfortunately until we had the camera ready, they were gone. Nevertheless, a green glow stood over the horizon
   for an hour.

                              
   
   The Aurora Borealis, named after the Roman Goddess of dawn Auora, and  the Greek name for north wind-Boreas, shows herself in
   often in magnificent colors and arrays, dancing in the nightly sky. Caused, so it is said, by the interaction of solar wind and the earth
   magnetic field.

         
                            Ice on the table                                                                            the air was brisk, cold and clear

           
               a small waterfall next to the campground                                        The fire took a while,as it was freezing

   In the night the temperature fell below Zero. The first time since Calafate, down in southern Argentina. We were shivering and started
   JAMBO, which after a few minutes blew warm air.

                               

   Driving on, we viewed this valley and you notice the brown and dead trees. The cause is the pine beetle pest.
   A serious problem here. When winter was mild they multiply tremendously. There is no cure. Once the tree is invested that's it.

   We had about 230 km to Haines junction further up North. Unique here is how safety concern the Canadians are. Through a
   construction site, we had to follow a pilot car. Safe, but expensive.

       
                               fog in the valley                                                              pilot car ahead on construction sites

   At the village 'Haines junction', we decided to call Alaska ferry to enquire when we could sail from Anchorage back South, as driving
   back the same road was out of question.Too long, too boring and too costly.
   Madam relied: "One sails in two days and the next on 9th October."
   "Madam there is no other ship in-between?"  "No Sir, but you can drive to Haines, there is a ship on Thursday to Prince Rupert in  
   Canada, half way down to Vancouver. We sat down and thought it over."What to do? There was no time to wait out the October ship;   
   we had to go on." Therefore we decided to enter Alaska in Haines, and turned our wheel left.
   "Maybe we see Russia from here too" said Yati as Sarah Palin had claimed.

       
                          astonishing landscape                                                                    lonesome JAMBO
 
   Better news was a bear which searched for roots just next to the road. The first we saw.

                                               
                                                             powerful! He was not disturbed by our presence.

   Within the next two hours we entered Alaska. The custom woman was "another something" again.
 
                                       
                                                                   Historical moment; our flag in Alaska

   "Another something" indeed. She had a serious appearance, like a teacher dealing with a bunch of naughty children. "Where you
   come from?" "What is your relationship?" What do you bring to Alaska on forbidden items? You have any cash? How much? We
   could not answer that fast. Then she try to tricky and repeated the questions; Maybe we were lying. Harun now angry: Look officer,
   if our presence is a headache, we turn around. And more; "we travel around the world, this is border no 32 and at the end we write a
   book. You will be in it." She was impersonal, almost arrogant. As if she want to say: "we do not like you foreigners here".
   Then she let us go.
  
   Now we are here in the land of mountains and sparkling waters and its glaciers, where the lure of quick richness brought an invasion
   of miners in the past.
   Alaska is huge. Bigger than France Italy and Spain put together but has only 600.000 residents, most of them living in the two 
   major cities, Fairbanks and Anchorage.

                              
                                                                                     timeless glaciers

   The first written record of Alaska was made by a navigator, Virtus Bering sailing in 1728 for the tsar of Russia. He and some of his
   crew died of scurvy but the ship sailed on to the present day town of Sitka before returning. From the hardship they brought back fur
   and pelts and tales of fabulous riches. In 1790's the rumor of immense wildlife and trade reached other nations too.
   And Spain in the forefront, send traders, which returned with boatloads of fur.
   The Brits arrived and Captain James Cook sailed until what is today the Cooks inlet, then the French in 1786, which made it until
   South Alaska.
   The Russian American Company depleted the Island chain the Aleuts soon from all fur and the boss, Gospodin Baranof relocated the
   headquarter to Sitka dealing ruthlessly with the TIingit Indians on the proven colonial methods, kill and burn. The natives had bad times.
   Russian forced the Aleuts into slavery. Hostages taken, families split up.
   In 1860 Russia was financially overstretched and made overtures for the sale of the state to the US, which took place after much
   quarrel in 1867.
   But then the purchase start to pay back. Firstly with hunting of whales and the salmon run, where millions ended in canneries. Then
   gold was discovered. It became gateway for famous Klondike gold rush. People sold all they had including their home and made it up
   North.
   From here over 25000 prospectors climbed the steep hills up to Benet lake, sawed and hammered crude rafts to sail down to Klondike.
   Meeting returners on the way, which came before. They too had enthusiastically staked their claim along a creek perhaps, made a
   wooden shack, and working days. after days throughout the summer. When autumn came, they were still shoveling the "pay dirt" , and
   if lucky, found some nuggets small as a sand corn. Winter approached, the shovel handle had to be replaced already 5 times, but his
   shoes were still the same. The winter brought more hardship. There were no socks, the feet in rags and toes frozen they worked and
   paned, praying, or cursing when again a day's hope was dashed. Partners  accused each other of cheating in such times.
   Fight broke out between them fought with knifes or guns. Often they would have thought to give up and return; "But lets try another day
   another week, we start in the corner where the huge pine tree stands, maybe under his roots we have luck.
   We just have to dig deeper."
   They went on again working hard, until one day to give up.
   Selling what the still had, an oven, their shack, returning penniless, to work in a horse stable for a month earning the ticket
   for the Klondike steamer out from there.
   Only a few stroke rich like Norhayati in her "gold search with the pan." And this time she was successful. Just look at the nuggets..
   "I got that in the creek. The prospectors did not see the treasure. We are rich!"

            
               Another panning trial                                             and the result is looking like gold

   Yes it looks like; but all is a set up. These are chocolate nuggets we purchased before. Again nothing. The gold pan will never recover
   what we have paid for, namely Can $ 10.-.

                             
                                                                             Chilkat river looking west

   The ordeal with officials repeated in Haines. Suddenly a flashing police car behind us. We stopped, Harun went out of the door, a polite
   gesture common in Asia and Europe. A policewoman long and thin in appearance shouted at him: "Get into the car!"
   He did not move but said: "We are tourists not terrorists". Again: "Get into the car" whether she reached for a revolver, we could not
   see. Harun went back, she came to the window. "You have driven 40 in a 25 zone", that is why I stopped you.
   "Sorry can happen;"."Drivers license" Madam this is country number 32 do you really think I went without?"
   "I have to see it" she snared." Inspecting the document she got second thoughts about the whole situation and seeing we are world
    travelers, she stretched her "friendship hand" to be shaken by Harun. He almost refused.
   What a system, what a people. You the tourists is no human for them. Our recommendation? "Go to Canada, but avoid USA."

   We have looked in YouTube at a motorcycle driver, who had filmed his journey by a video camera on his helmet.
   He was speeding; an unmarked car overtook him blocked his way; out jumped a civil guy drawing a gun and shouting "state police".
   He could be a robber, as a statement means nothing. So, the cyclist filmed the arrest and put it on YouTube. Now he faces criminal
   charges "up to 16 years in prison". This is America.

   Coming along the river we noticed two wheels rotating and stopped. It rotates slowly driven by the current and whatever fish is in the
   cage, it is lifted up and thrown into the buckets on both sides, which end in nets underwater. Not to kill the fish.
   These are biologists who have set it up, to tag fish. Release them to swim further upstream to the lake.
   The relation of caught fish, tagged and not tagged tells about overfishing. If needed they stop fishing out in the near ocean. A highly  
   managed approach. Should be applied in Asia too, where fishing goes on until there is no fish left.

                                     
                                                                 Rotating, driven by the current

   We checked into a camp ground in town, as they had internet. It was raining. The journey in these lands here, take tolls on our nerves.
   The only good food is when we cook our self. We had to sit for hours in the car, cook in the car, sleep in the car, now already over 200
   nights on this journey. Moreover, now it was cold and wet.
   The mood drops and one wishes the journey to be over soon. But no, we will complete this mission come what may. There is Australia
   ahead, and then we return home to Brunei, to my family and friends. "I could not do this trip" said a traveler from USA, when looking
   at our JAMBO. "This is extraordinary, what you two achieve."  In fact the car draws attention (including unwanted as with the police
   woman).  On another campground campers grouped together looking at us. Too shy to come and ask? Or thinking what strange
   people these two are?

  Today is Tuesday; on Thursday we have a ferry south to Prince Rupert. Only two nights in the rain here, then we are out.
  Checking E-mails we got a reply from Vancouver as we had contacted various forwarding agents over time, to find the cheapest  
  shipment of JAMBO to Sydney. There was an offer. Packing JAMBO with other goods in a consolidated 40 ft container was the
  cheapest one. Only Can $ 3.600.-, others have asked for Can$ 5.400 and up. We called; thanks to TelBru sat phone. "How safe is
  the car?" "It is surely secure, but the vessel take 52 days to Sydney." This ship is docking in various ports before.
  Looked at the money reserves. The donor funds have drained. All of them. Cash has turned into bundles of receipts.
  We are now on our own funds, hard but not avoidable. Hopefully RBA will sponsor our flights to Brisbane. We wrote to them but so far
  no response. "OK Gabrielle, we take the $ 3.600.- option and will be in your office by coming Tuesday".
 
   WEDNESDAY 8-9-2010

   It was a terrible night, all the time raining; the moisture crawled into our sleeping bags. I was shivering when climbing out. Later the  
   morning the fog cleared and we went the river road up to an Indian settlement. They do not like visitors. Yet we managed to meet
   Andrew and begging, he show us how a salmon is sliced for smoking.

                     
                           the Indian reservation of Klukwan                                                   their Chilkat tribe culture house

                             
                                    here Andrew demonstrates how to cut a salmon

   First take the intestines out, cut the head off, then slice from both sides the salmon along the backbone.

   Then the salmon gets into a brine, here every family has its own secret recipe. Then it is ready for smoking over fire.
   It was salmon run time. The salmon has a lifecycle which brings him back to the place he was born, in a creek or stream.
   Soon after birth he leaves the sweet water and ventures into the sea just to return one day, swim up as close to his birthplace as he
   can, spawns and dies.

                 
                     It was salmon run time                                   birds were waiting patiently to pick on the returning salmons...

   ...and bears too. We went there in the afternoon. The place was full with tourists awaiting the bears.

                                        
                                                         and here they came; hunting and feeding on the salmon

                     
                                         Mom and tree cubs. She teaches them how to catch salmon

               
                                                         salmon catching is serious business

   We met in Haines Tom the reporter of Chilkat Valley news. He want to bring our story in the next issue. Tom was a cheerful fellow
   and intends to come to Asia, so he said.

                  
                   A highly concentrated shot of JAMBO                                                       His newspaper

   THURSDAY 9-9-2010

   It was raining as usual. But today we are leaving south. The ferry is to come around 1:00 pm and she was punctual.

           
                    Here is my beloved country, Brunei                                           our ferry to Prince Rupert, Canada

       
   The weather was as usual, rainy and when the first night came, we had a sound sleep. Twice we docked on route for a short while.

   FRIDAY 10-9-2010
 
   On sea. The ship was snaking through the Inland passage, canals sometime only 100 m wide.
   Tomorrow we should reach Prince Rupert.

            
                    In the Ketchican port, this cruiser had arrived. What was strange is, that all outside cabins had a balcony.

   We had a stop of 6 hours too. Likely because of tide rush in the channels the ship is navigating. She had to wait them out.
   So, we went to town. In particular, where totem poles were erected, to learn more about them.

                      
                                    the street of totem poles                                                      the sun and raven pole

   Around the head of the raven is a halo and he has outspread wings. On his breast are three figures, children of the sun. Below the
   face of a girl.

                 
                   Kats and his Bear Wife                 the A. Lincoln pole (he on top).                 Raven and sockeye salmon
    Here a part of the mythical story of Raven and Sockeye salmon: "Raven was fishing with his two slaves,
    and was returning to camp as heavy fog settled over the bay. Suddenly they saw a woman sitting in their canoe.
   She called for a Bruce-root basket, put it on her left side, and begun collecting the fog into it. Soon it was bright and sunny and
   they reached the camp. Shortly after Raven went hunting with one of the slaves. Fog woman dipped her fingers in the stream and 
   immediately salmon appeared..."

   By 930 evening our ships engines started and we were on our final leg to Prince Rupert.

       
                         lonely islands to navigate around                                                Glacier cluster along the voyage
 
   SATURDAY 11-9-2010

   By 3:00 am we woke up as the ship was rolling from one to the other side. The movement which makes one seasick. The reason?
   We traversed an open pacific water stretch. Suddenly a voice from the loudspeakers. Harun shot straight up. "What is this? Alarm?"
   When we left Port Kechikan a male voice told over the addressing system, that passengers had to dress up warm in case of
   emergency. On the next table afterwards in the ships restaurant we overheard a conversation between an elderly camper, and his
   companion a much younger Asian female, maybe a Filipina, both were on a honeymoon trip, so it seemed as the wedding rings were
   still new and shiny.
   And it went as follows:  
   She; "Hon we better sleep dressed up tonight, one never know how fast you can get into your cloth."
   He:" Ok darling and we keep our documents with us just in case. I better keep my shoes on too. Tonight no fun sorry,"
   She: and do not forget the blue pills, where are they?
   He: "Schhhht! you want the whole world to know!"  And he pulled the 'old mans hope' out (a packet of Viagra).
  
   Honorable reader, we did not sink; and arrived in Price Rupert at 4:30 am, went through customs, nice and easy and were on the way
   to Okanagan and Vancouver.

   Rain, the whole day rain. Where does all that water come from? It is nerving and frustrating one only sees the wet road, the headlights
   of others and otherwise nothing. Driving had to be extremely careful. Only by 4 pm the rain eased when we had arrived at Terrace town
   400 km east of Prince Rupert. We had to clean JAMBO for Australia thoroughly and decided to do it here.

            
                            Clean up for Australia                                                                            120 km bush road

   While working we were approached by a man: "You want to see grizzly bears?" "Is it assured we can see them?" "Yes for sure" and
   he described to drive 120 km dirt road into the interior until we come to a bridge and river. Due to the salmon run, there are grizzly. It
   took us two hours to reach there, it was getting dark, when we arrived.

               
                                 a grizzly mum and four cubs                                                     a grizzly feeding on salmon

                              
                                                                                       A grizzly family hunt

                              
   Feeding is fun if there are salmons everywhere. The young do not know where to look first. Grizzlies are big.
   Grown up, they weight up to 600 kg. They are not native of the land here rather they originated in Eurasia and came to North America
   50.000 years ago over the then existing land bridge.
  
   We left in the last daylight to find an open grassland patch, hoping for a Northern light. But nothing although it was freezing.

      
                rushing to find a camping spot                                 only the great wagon we saw in the dark sky (lines made by us)

   The Viking named the constellation, "Odin's Wagon"; today it is known also as Great Bear.

   SUNDAY 12-9-2010

   We drove all day in rain. and arrived in Quesnel town in the evening. Horrible this weather!  When I open our E-mails, the greetings
   from all, family and friends, wishing us a safe journey, and looking at the send pictures, I could not hold my tears back. Harun had to
   comfort me.
   I miss them and Brunei; no matter how much we were envied here by people for our achievement. The truth is, I long to come home.
   This journey takes off me. We had no normal life for a year over. Just driving, fixing problems, planning ahead, dealing with officials,
   corrupt or otherwise like in the USA. Sleeping and eating, in fact living in, and with JAMBO, our Toyota.
   However, to complete the task we have set before us, and finish what you all expect from us, we go on; now on our account, as  
   donation funds have drained.
   A happy "SELAMAT HARI RAYA". I miss you all, family and friends. I miss the smiles and laughter, the food. The open houses the
   friendship and tradition among our people.
   Never ever would I want to live in this part of the world as these folks here have lost much of what is culture and humanity.
   We are fortunate to call Brunei our home.

   To all our donors from a rainy, cold North Canada: "Thank you for your help; and we see you soon. December or January we arrive at
   the border in Kulala Lurah. It will be one of the happiest moments of my life. But first still, Australia is waiting."

   We end these unusual emotional words with a special greeting from both of us to our sponsors:
   The Prime Ministers office, TOTAL, Hajah Normah charming Director of the Agriculture Department, Halal Brand and Logo,
   Sheikh Jamaluddin the Tourism CEO, Telbru and Steward Lee, (no phoning without them),
   Islamic Bank Brunei Berhad, and Datin Paduka Hjh  Afsah the Permanent Secretary Ministry of Education.
   Further to the dignitaries the Brunei Embassies which helped in one and the other way,  in particular, His Excellency Pehin Datu  
   Paduka Panglima Col (rtd) Hj Abd Jalil and wife Hjh Umi Kalthum,
   Pehin Datu Inderasugara Brigadier General (B) Dato Paduka Hj Mohammad Yusof and wife Datin Mastura,
   the Brunei Ambassador in Oman and Hajah Ida Fauzana Hj Ibrahim, Bruneian families which  work  with PDO
   (Petroleum Development Oman), The Brunei Ambassador in Saudi Arabia and foremost Hj Harun Hj Junaidi the Consul.
   last no least Hj Nordin and Hj Ibrahim the Visa performers in Morocco. Through their work, the  journey through Africa was made
   much easier.

   " As-Salamu Alaykum and Selamat Hari  Raya; Peace be with you."
 
    Norhayati and Harun
  
   MONDAY13-9-2010
 
   We have turned southbound. The weather is still the same. Cold and raining. We slept in another camping ground for the night. There
   was nothing special, except driving in rain.

   As you can see below our journey does not go unnoticed.

                                        
                                         Buy Quesnel Cariboo Observer Photos Online
                                        Globetrotters with a cause

                         
                     Harun Kurt Eichbauer and Nohayati Abu-Baker are on a worldwide mission
                                          to promote the 25th anniversary of Brunei’s independence from the British
                                          and to encourage Bruneian youth to reach for their goals.
                                          Percy N. Hébert photo
                                          Published: September 16, 2010 5:00 PM                                         

                                          Kurt Eichbauer and his wife Norhayati Abu-Baker left Borneo June 17, 2009
                                          on a worldwide journey. The journey has thus far included 34 countries with
                                          a few more still to come. “We are celebrating the 25th anniversary of Brunei’s
                                          independence from the British,” Abu-Baker said. But the journey is much more
                                          for Abu-Baker who is from Brunei. She said she was the first Malayan to achieve
                                          such an experience and hoped her journey around the globe would influence
                                          young Bruneian.“I want to motivate the youth of Brunei and Malaysia to do much more.”
                                          For his part, Eichbauer, a native of Austria, said his role in the journey was quite
                                          simple. “I’m the husband, I am supporting her endeavors,” he said with a smile.
                                          Although the two, who run an ecotourism business in Brunei, have been on the road
                                          for more than a year, no harm has come to them and arguments have been few
                                          and far between and of little consequence, Eichbauer said. But the voyage has
                                          touched them in several ways. The saddest part of the journey for Eichbauer was
                                          in South America. “The poor people of Peru,” Eichbauer said solemnly.
                                          Abu-Baker pointed to Angola, admiring the friendliness of the people despite the
                                          civil war and the horrible conditions. “That was the worst for me,” she said.
                                          “The corruption in Russia was bad, the police stop you just for money,” she added.
                                           Eichbauer recounted another experience that left him shaking his head.
                                           “I was finger-printed and hand-printed in Miami when we arrived from Columbia,”
                                           he said. “That was humiliating. ”Thus far the couple have travelled 64,000 kilometres
                                           of their expected 90,000-km trek. Their impressions of Canada are similar to those
                                           of many visitors. “The people are friendly and the crystal clear skies,” Abu-Baker said.
 

   TUESDAY 14-9-2010

   Finally we reached the dries part of Canada. The Okanagan.  Fruits are grown as on the Mediterranean shores, grapes, peaches.
   apricots, apples and alike.

         
                                                  natures finest fruits sold by the kilos; peach, berries and grapes
 
           
                           seeing this semi desert landscape. one wonders if this is actually wet Canada, but yes it is

      
        full moon; the time, when the witches fly and burden people's dreams.             our last good night in JAMBO until Australia

   The evening came and our last night in JAMBO. we stay in a campground at a lake. The night was clear and almost full moon.

   WEDNESDAY 15-9-2010

   The sun was climbing slowly over the mountain, as if she did not want to shine and wake us up. But it was the quarrel of a group of
   geese which made a further nap impossible. They were hungry. What to do? I fed them with left over bread.
   Looking at their feeding hierarchies, the fattest was always determined to get all the food. He fought with others tearing on the fetters
   until they run. It is just like with humans without "humanity". Does not the rich, fat ones defended what they have amassed,
   and fight to get more?

        
    We were on the way to Vancouver only about 350 km away, the road was climbing into the mountains, many try pine trees victims of
    the pine beetle.

             
                                                               we liked the wording...

   Somewhere we overtook this sh.. tanker the words are clear and yet decent said. By afternoon we had arrived and checked into a
   hotel in the Asian neighborhood.
   From Vancouver we ship JAMBO to Australia, and all the arrangements had to be made.

          
                       down the mountain pass                                                            in the back the skyline of Vancouver

   THURSDAY 16-9-2010 

             
                          That's the hotel full breakfast for two                                     "You are from Brunei?" I come from Miri

   Harun collected the breakfast a paper sack with some croissant and other eatable stuff. To be consumed in the room. No breakfast
   room, no table. Those folks are masters in saving. After the "paper sack breakfast", we went out from the hotel lobby, behind us this
   gentlemen of Chinese ancestry. He got a stroke right in the door.
   No, not a real one. But he, seeing JAMBO, he was stunned while looking at the number plate: "You are from Brunei?" ."Yes boss".
   "I'm from Miri". Said he;" I cannot believe my eyes". And the gentleman, we did not get his name, went around JAMBO shaking his
   head. "From Brunei, From Brunei...You came all the way?" . "Yes boss, and we still have Australia ahead of us."  "I always thought in
   Brunei nothing happens". "You see there you have been mistaken." He was so happy - and we too.

           
                  reflection of Vancouver hotel                                 Mohammed and Baptist; thank you friends for your admiration

   We went downtown for a map of Australia, after all now it is sure we are going there. By lunch we had a meeting arranged with
   Mohammed Jafar the reporter for an interview and a story in his paper. He was punctual and while we talked, another Gentleman
   came: "Sorry to bother you, I saw your license number; you are from Brunei?" "Yes sir". "I saw your vehicle, while passing and I drove
   around the block to come and meet you. I'm from Malaysia". It was Mr.Baptist, living here in Vancouver. He never lost his roots to
   home.

   FRIDAY 17-9-2010

   It was again Vancouver weather and you distinguished reader know what we mean. Rain. We drove south, as we had seen, when
   coming from USA, a mosque. It was the Masjidul Jami in Richmond with an adjacent Surrey Muslim school for Islamic studies. The
   principal, Madam Shabana Rahman agreed to a few photos and one with our Brunei flag. "Thank you Madam".

           
                            the mosque and school                                                                    intelligent and curious kids
          
                            
                                                                        Our symbol in Vancouver

   The education reaches grade 7. At present there are 160 students and 12 teachers, a sound student/teacher relationship.

   Afterwards we drove to the forwarder on the outskirt of Vancouver and arranged for the surrender of our car for Saturday, a hop up to
   customs for a "Out of Canada chop" in the carnet, and the morning was gone.
  
   Our meal we ate in a Malay Restaurant, good home made Udang and Kachang veggie.
   Two tables further sat this couple, Family Leong. They are from Seria, as it turned out later.
   Bella and Patrick now living in Canada were astonished seeing the number plates of JAMBO."  KK 3549, is this real?" They asked.

       
                                we cannot believe it                                                       proud to be Bruneian

   Bella, as Patrick, could not believe what they saw. A Brunei Number plate here in Vancouver? Impossible! And yet true it was.
   They were happy and a sort of proud too, that a Bruneian ventured the world.
   The afternoon belonged to JAMBO. We had to clean it thoroughly, especially wheels and the undercarriage, as the Australian
   Agriculture Department would request a steam wash for the price of 550.- Australian quits, if they are not happy with the tidiness.
   Tomorrow we drive to the forwarders warehouse to surrender the car.

             

   SATURDAY 18-9-2010

   It was raining since last night. With the washed and polished car we drove to Astra International, to surrender JAMBO for the journey
   to Sydney. Gabrielle the boss was waiting.

    
           "from here to there" Gabrielle's world map shows our journey.                                        JAMBO awaiting shipment

   He will sail the Pacific. We return to Austria before we fly to Australia beginning November. Hopefully with a free ticket from RBA.
   It takes almost two month until we see our vehicle again, then for the final part of our "Around the World Journey".
   Not much on distance is left, in "Down Under." were our travels continue.

   To all readers, thank you for patronizing, and the encouraging words. We get many e-mails admiring our braveness, congratulating,
   "You both make history for Brunei and for Islam. I'm proud of you." .
   There is a German story of one, who tried to achieve his goal and failed all the time. At the end giving up, sitting in a café, frustrated
   and disillusioned he listen to a song coming from the speaker and the words, which were made for him;
   "Wenn der Herrgott net will, nutzt es garnix". Translated it means "If the Almighty does not want you to achieve these goals, no
   matter how hard you try, you will fail."
   We are aware of Allah's will and grace. Therefore we pray to him, to permit us to complete this journey as the first Muslim couple of
   all times. That HE may hold and protect us, as little Karina, the granddaughter of Harun coddled heir Sami.

   Now leaving Canada and relatives behind, it is a sad moment; They are dear to us. Good people from the heart.
   To them we say "Auf Wiedersehen"," See you again" and we vision already, still vague though, the very day of a "Wiedersehen",
   somewhere "over the horizon (net)." 
   With every day passing we are nearer to Brunei, to my close family and home, I'm longing for them.

   This journey, devoted to my beloved Sultan and Brunei Darussalam enters now its final stage. Only 6000 km more to go. With your
   prayers we will surely make it through, and should be in Brunei around ending of December 2010.

                               
                                       Karina and her favorite "Sami"                                              the farewell photo

   SUNDAY 19-9-2010

   There are 6 weeks now ahead of us here in Austria, in the farmer house high up in the southern Alps, while JAMBO sails to Sydney..
   We will work, then time passes fast. Reflecting what we have seen and endured, the Styrofoam eating plates in the US, their
   undereducated people, the one sided news. Looking and listening at the private channels one feels like an idiot.

   The only thing concerned is money, obesity and beauty. An outside world does not exists. There is no Iraq or Afghanistan war in their
   programs and minds. This Administration,  with the "schokoboy" as leader, the one with a Nobel price for peace, ( given for what?) goes
   on fighting and killing, with borrowed money from the Chinese. Their coffers are long empty. It is bitter to think about.
 

Still in Vancouver we had a meeting with the editor Mr. Jafar Bhamji, of the fine newspaper, ALAMEEN, to share our experiences with the Muslim community. He wrote this article below for you, dear reader.
 

                                                  
                                                   From Brunei to the end of the world (And Return) 10-12-2010                                

                                   Article Source: ALAMEEN
                                   http://www.alameenpost.com/articles.aspx?categoryname=world&newsId=2360

    FRIDAY 5-11-2010

    6 weeks have passed quickly.
    Tomorrow we are leaving and will arrive in Sydney on the 9-11. JAMBO should float close to the continent by then.

   We are eager to travel Australia, yet we are not sure which route we are taking. Let us see first. However honorable readers, we will
   frequently update our page and feel honored, if you log in and check our progress, or drop us an E-mail.
   We intend to reach Darwin via Perth, to ship JAMBO back to Kota Kinabalu and drive via Kuala Lurah home. What a day that will be.
 
   SATURDAY 6-11-2010

   We take the early train to Frankfurt. A last look out of our  window exposed the splendor of an  autumn morning, with crystal
   clear light and snowcapped mountains, a 60 km away. Fog rest over the valley as if our ALMIGHTY does not want to see  mankind's
   tumbling into his unknown destiny, the foolishness of his children.

   But all actions are transparent for HIM, so is the active work of his adversary SATAN; the
   guy from below and his helpers, the Illuminati and other "power and greed" driven men.
   (I did not call them humans, as a humans have consciousness and a soul) they don't.

             
                                                        Nature prepares for a rest over winter...

   ...and we have packed our shorts, cameras and enthusiasm.
 
   Dear reader come with us to Australia, where our final leg is about to begin.