Monday 4-2-08 Yemen

   By 7:30 we left the hotel, turning into the southbound road and reached the border by 11:00 noon.
   Two hours later we were through. The Saudi officials found the Ministry fax in time, and Yemen was waiting for us. Poor and
   disorganized they looked as the first impression. But honest, very honest, with a few exceptions. One was the Visa issuing man at the
   border. 300 Saudi rial he wanted, but the uniformed officer said "no no! It is only rial 140.-." The visa guy looked as if he had just eaten
   a lemon. Baba in is seventies did the custom check, he was so shortsighted that someone had to read the chassis number for him.
   Another man in plain cloth went through offices to do the paperwork and just asked us to wait. When completed Harun liked to tip him,
   but he declined and said "by by".. Great people the Yemenis.

               
                              Only 749 km to Yemen       .                                    On the Saudi border Yemen trucks awaiting clearance

                
                       Along the road. The Yemenites are predominantly Muslims, a mosque you find everywhere

              .   
        
                                          fighting the wind                                                                                 Desert palms

   When a sandstorm hit us, which overcast the sky and brownish dust , we stopped for a while as we knew that the fine sand will
   scratch our windscreen like a sand blaster. We had it in Sudan and a few years back in Algeria, The windscreen has thousands of
   small scratches which blur the vision, especially when riving into the sun or at night. Plastic was flying, But soon afterwards, 
   JAMBO rolled again over Yemen and towards Sana'a.  

               
                  a local village, the road passes right through                                          and the roadside music shop

   This is the story of Hashim, we met in one of the villages. Sitting at home and doing nothing, being dependant on the wider family?
   Hashim did not like the idea. Since he loved music he decided to help himself, and had an idea. Looking for a while around, he found
   this four wheel scrap carriage, then he looked for a metal box, once used to transport electric goods. He got the few Yemeni "quits"
   together and purchased both, wire tied the box onto the structure. From the cover he made two doors, a padlock, his mobile shop was
   now complete, but still empty. In Al Sadudt a larger village, he had  a distant uncle and he went to him. "Salam Uncle! I want to start
   business, can you trust me and borrow some money? I want to use it as deposit, that I get music tapes from the shop, to sell" .after
   enquiring more the uncle realized that he was serious and went with him to the music man. This guy, an Yemenite Indian, always
   interested to sell more, took a little risk and handed to Ahmed the initial stock of popular tapes. Since then his mobile music shop
   became his income, and mobile protector in a sandstorm. He pushes the shop, wherever people wait for a bus, from one road side to
   the other, on market day he stands where the crowd is greatest, and his battery operated speaker scream the fines Yemenite love
   songs into the heart and valet of lonely and longing men. Dark skinned wool headed soldiers on gaji day (salary) in the garrison a few
   kilometer down the road, hear his music already after assar prayer outside the gate. We do not talk about quality, as the 17th copy
   of the original had some unwanted but unavoidable hissing an crackling noises, that actually it became difficult to know which song he
   is just was playing.  "Allahu Akbar" he says;" He made music and give me ideas, now I have regular income". and since a wedding
   ceremony where he  provided some musical noise with his battery operated recorder and speakers, many more future couples request 
   his service. Without knowing it, he became the first "disc-" no, not disc, but  "tape-jockey"  of the desert between Saudi and Sana'a 
   in mountainous Yemen. Alhamdulilah!

                 
                 Here, in these makeshift homes is no one rich. No clean water no sanitation, those are likely refugees from Somalia

          
         The "beautiful" SHELL sculpture; seen in a round about.                                          JAMBO in Yemen

   We were on our way to Sana'a the capital. The scenery was breathtaking, the driving of the tankers and lorries too. Sana'a lies in the
   mountains, a small road winds up, another down to Aden. Unsecured at the sides, over maybe 5 passes, we did not count 
   anymore that night. our bright lights helped, but this driving needed luck not only skill. Many trucks on the road, how many kilo Qat in
   the drivers cheeks we do not know. Everyone was eager to reach in time his destination.

     

         
                      A gorge getting narrower further up                         guess whom we met?  TOTAL our sponsor on the way to San'a  

   That created some worrisome situations. Yet, blessing was with us and by 10:30 pm, after 14 hours we reached a hotel, the first we 
   saw, It  was a 5 star establishment!
   "Goshh these prices!"  but what to do we were just dead tiered. " The foyer was lit up brightly, on the left the reception, from the right
   behind a mighty door a beautiful female voice and music. A wall sign in brass invited the potential visitor to the "Golden Oasis". While
   Harun settled the registration, I open the door curiously . On the stage a female band of 5 girls,  On the  Mic, the lead singer. Bikinis
   covered, or better exposed the slender and almost perfect bodies, swinging slowly in rhythm of their song: " When  a man loves a
   woman". The place was full with Arabs   nipping on soda or whatever  was in front of them.  Their senses tensioned, their eyes and
   ears open.
   And when the singer girl went down  to a son of the desert, as they do sometime to animate, he must have, been judged by his
   oversize from one of the rich states around, and sung for him the Barbara Streisand evergreen " I'm a woman in love" , he was shaken,
   I could see that on the drinking glass he held. When reaching   "I do anything to hold you in my arms" he fingered for a bundle of cash
   in his deep pocket to hand her some  banknotes. Thanking she returned to the stage to complete the song." You silly man" I thought.
   You are no match to the powers of a  woman, especially a pretty Filipina. Do not dream of an erotic encounter, besides you are too
   big anyhow. She is here for money and nothing more.
   Quietly, I   closed the door leaving hopes and dreams behind. The sound  was fading when we went to the lift.
   Soon later we were sleeping, while JAMBO was parked in a lit up parking lot, watched over by a security guard.

     Tuesday 5-2-08                                                    

   Yemen has 3000 years history on 532.000 square km, mostly arid land. It is therefore almost 100 times bigger than my beloved
   Brunei. One can see in the architectural and cultural heritage along roads and in towns alike. From here comes the frankincense the  
   most important product of ancient Arabia. It is the resin of a Bosella tree which grow only in these regions. The aroma was greatly
   valued in old times, in Egypt as well as with the Romans. Trading routes through the desert were well established already by the 11th
   century BC. In 628 A.D. the first mosques were  build in San'a,  and prominent Yemenites visited prophet Mohammed.
   In the northern part a descendant of prophet Mohammed, Yahya bin Husayn bin Qasim ar-Rassi, established a dynasty which lasted
   until the 20th century. Today Yemen is a multiparty democracy with Sana'a as its capital. It lies 2200m height and  is pretty cold up
   here. The Yemeni architecture in Sana'a, buildings made  by mud and bricks  with decorated facades show this long history.
   Although it is very cold in winter month, we saw nowhere a chimney. Maybe because there is no firewood as the land is barren, stony
   and dry.

       
           Typical facades and the even higher mountains behind                  Higher houses have 5 or 6 stories

                     
                 the home has seen a few hundred years. notice the mud bricks                           window details

   If we look at the old building you notice the ground floor has no windows. It is used as store and stable. Also if an enemy attacks it
   was harder to get into the house. all windows are very small, just to provide some light, but keep the heat or ice-cold weather out.

                               
                                                    narrow alleys               and typical Yemenis, in his belt the Eveready dagger "Jambia"

    Qat is the national narcotic of Yemen. Actually it is only a mild stimulant supposed to keep the chewer alert. Most Yemenis chew
    the Oat's fresh leaves and stuff it  inside one cheek. Leaves are sold -not too cheap- 100 grams a quarter plastic bag for about B$ 10.-.

                
               a youngster on his motorcycle, Qat and plenty time,                              the "Qat newcomer"

   Then Harun was gone while I photo the unique buildings; Searching, I found him outside a coffee shop he looked to me weird.
   Was this Qat I ask myself? Or just a joke?

                
                   This is Qat, the stuff dreams are made off                we preferred this. Orange juice a glass for 70 Brunei cents

   Qat is mild drug they say, but it happen twice when driving through villages, that despite the horn blow of our "eschiptian red trumped"
   which brings back to life the dead, some guys just keep wandering into the street, one cheek stuffed with Qat in the size of a golf ball,
   Starring to nowhere and walking in trancelike motion.

            .              
                                                   new and old Sana'a                                        The hotel of our second night, 11/2 stars

   In-between, a word to our sticker manufacturer in Brunei. Gentlemen you must have been likely cheated! You got material with
   substandard glue.
   We have no other explanation. the weather is warm here. Why we say that? Look at JAMBO.
   All sticker with exception of the one we made and where we asked for high quality material, and the one of TOTAL, all fall off.
   Including the Visit Brunei of the Tourism department. The glue just do not hold! They start to roll up and then wind catches the edge, a
   few hundred kilometer further, it looks like a 3 month old rag. We hope the new sets coming will be better quality. We surely attract
   attention. Even here in Sana'a. The world need to see your name!

                        
   Wandering in the old city we found this "corkscrew" house, and we wonder why would the owner change direction in the upper floors?.
  Any idea? The entrance doors are rather small, but made in decorative wood. Here we met Farah, the 11 year old girl from San'a. She  
  spoke a bit English. "Where did you learn it?" "In school" she said. How many sisters and brothers you have? "
  "Nine". She did not knew of Brunei, but " greetings from me to all girls  there" she said. Then hearing shouting from a distance. The
   black dressed mother was calling her angrily. "How can Farah talk to strangers!"

           
                   Farah the Sana'a girl                                                               The foot pain reliever

   The right picture is itself a story of poverty. The old man  has no pension as we use to get so he has to work. His material in various
   colors is plastic canvas we use for seat covers. He makes "shoe comforters" that is plastic inlays. "What?" you ask. Correct! These
   are not new soles glued onto shoes. this is material for shoe inlays. Let me explain:
   If a shoe has a hole in the sole and stones pain' the owner, then he makes business, with a "cut to size inlay" in various colors. Cheap
   and practical. The owner can now wander the gravel road without worries or risk of pain and use the shoes for more miles.

     Wednesday  6-2-08
     
                       The square shaped tower                                                   another facade created in free expression

   This morning before we leave, we  got permission to travel along main roads to Aden and out to Oman, by the Tourist police.
   Within one hour we had this procedure behind us too. And plan now to leave Sana'a on the long way to Oman and Muscat. All maybe
   3000 km.
   On the way we came across this tower  next to a mosque. They house the Museum there.  Look at the upper floors, the owner did not
   like round he made them square! We will travel desert and mountain roads and do not know if we can find Internet. The next time you
   hear from us might be only by the weekend. By, by, from Sana'a where the sky is clear and the air cold, the pride high and the
   "Jambia" loose. Never offend the owner; as his sharp dagger is- as the slogan of a battery manufacturer- "Eveready".
   But yes, the Yemenis are open to foreigners and very friendly..
   Out of Sana'a the first two km  exists a uncompleted 4 lane highway. Suddenly a newer land cruiser pull to our side and one man  
   shouted : "photo photo" and indicated to stop. he drove front,  and halted, you would not believe in the middle of the highway! Traffic
   passing, left and right. We were not that brave, but stopped on the side strip, they followed. The English speaking man came to us.
   "Sheik want a photo with you and car" Ok .." Proudly he shook hands with Harun, it was a great moment for the sheik an us.

                  
                                                                      Next to me the Sheik Abdullah Kadir, Ali Naami and two other Yemenis

   That is how it came to these pictures. Afterwards they lead us out of the "Sana'a traffic circus" until  the direct road to Aden. Waving 
   they were happy and we knew to be correct. Again we had to climb mountain passes out, with narrow, dangerous curves, steep drop
   offs a few hundred meters, should you be forced from the road. But it was daylight a spectacular scenery unfolded once in a while.

   
                                                                                                                                          villages like eagles nests

     
                Qat grown on the roadside                                     a farmer with his sheep, behind  hill terraces in steep slopes.

 
      high land agriculture. melon and oranges in abundance                                            waiting for buyers

      
           even the scrap lorry goes still for TOTAL lubricants                        Mr. Ahmed the workshop manager of TOYOTA Aden

     Thursday 7-2-08

   Another tragic story in the ever-present American Quest for resources and world dominance. He was jetfighter pilot and
   when the "distributors of democracy in the name of freedom" arrived, he had to flee as they were looking for him. A highly trained
   specialist manages now a workshop in a foreign land.
   What a shame.
   We took a half day to check JAMBO, adjust the valves, change filters and oils, and were on our way by noon again, now
   east-  northeast along the coast towards Oman. Not before Mr. Ahmed reduced the bill with a discount. "All I'm authorized to give" he
   said. Toyota has here a great man.
   The further  we come to the east, the more the physiognomy resembles Indians, indicating the land of
   their forefathers.  Dress code and food is now more Indian than ever.

       
                 how to eat the "umbrella" bread?                                       see the president? respectless Yemenites !

   The main dish consists of Fasolias (beans) and fresh baked  Umbrella bread. After the fifth time, we could tell the difference in beans.  
   But no respect for America's new friend here in the Yemen village. His pics is used as eating plate and he got a dirty nose on the way.

   Along the road the "bus  station", consisting of a small tree left alive, not chopped for firewood because of the shade for the waiting
   passengers. and then behind group of houses the village football team, right in a match against guests from Al Mantura, on the
   mountain slopes, shared by goats and folks alike.  Bare feet, that is understood. The sarong runners, had the better players. Shouts
   echoed over the field. Hammering the ball, sarongs were flying, exposing underwear and more. But who cares in the heat of a match?
   After all, women do not look. They are where they belong to. In the home, whatever that might be.

        
                 JAMBO in South east Yemen                                                                 eerie landscape

   It was over 1300 km  eastwards. Police road block after road block. The important guy always in civilian dress, giving the permission
   to pass only, after a call to his  boss. Sometime the landline does not work, on other occasions, their mobile handy had no credit. The
   Tourism police boss whom we met, gave his number." just in case you get stuck" We needed it. A guy did not allow us to go further,
   only a call to the chief and some shouts through the phone open the way for us. Maybe he only wanted some money.
   Army road block,  police block, again Army...., every 10-15 km. At a later stage we had to take a soldier into the car. He, sitting
   behind, we drove into later afternoon. Exchanged him after two roadblocks, he had to find his way back on a hitchhike. Naturally we
   had to compensate all men  for their protection efforts. The sea was now close to the road. Very simple huts , fishermen families living
   a meager life. Poor as it can get. For miles no village; meaning no education for the kids, no electricity, water to drink from a dug out
   hole in the Wadi, where rush waters thunder down and into the sea, should it rain in the mountains of the interior. Poverty is often the
   cause of trouble and here we were in the middle of it.

   
                         mountains are close to the road                                                 a tank, defender of the nation!

   It was getting dark, we had changed another soldier. there were no cars on the road anymore. "Sleep here in police station; road is
   dangerous  they said," but we wanted to reach Al Mukalla, half way to Oman for one and Qat sucking  guys did not get our trust.. We
   had climbed again into mountainous land. Driving into the night, suddenly our brave soldier of the mighty Yemen army went down to
   the floor between our boxes, and only his head was up to look out of the rear window, his "Aunty Kala" pointing to the back. "What is
   he doing?" I asked. Harun slowed down to check. "La,la,!(no no) the soldier shouted, and added words, we did not understand.
   " Bum bum "he show his Kalashnikov pointing to both sides of the car. Suddenly I realized:" This is troubled  area they are fighting
   here!" Distinguished reader, how to react? Shall we drive without light? With the headlights on, the car is an easy target. The soldier
   indicted as far as we understood: "No stop. Go, go."
   The road became steeper and we used 1st gear now, I went down to the floor and was no more visible from the window: "JAMBO's 
   good  thick metal body will absorb some of a bullet force should we be shot at" I thought. Harun lean back as much as the backrest
   allowed, almost laying, just looking out a bit over the steering.
   " How slowly can be slowly? Ho long is a minute?  Believe me dear reader, in such a situation of worries and fear, ten minutes are
   almost as long as eternity!

                                          
                                                          One of our protectors.  It was still day and easy going

   Half hour it took to go out of the mountains again. The soldier was now babbling by himself he seem to be happy, having survived. I had
   back pain the next day from the uncomfortable position I used. A few kilometer further was again a police block, they had a car. Four
   armed policemen escorted us the last 120 km to Al Mukalla, where we checked into a hotel. It was 11:30pm. The police needed some
   money, the hotel was costly, all in all we spend US 170.-, way out of the planned budget. We sunk into our beds for the night. The
   bullets were flying around me like wasps was all I remember of my dreams.

     Friday 8-2-08

    Al Mukalla, main town of the province and fishing port, the inhabitants we saw, were all  from the Indian continent., the food and
   dresses too. Nothing remind us of the Arabia peninsula, where we actually were. Even the minaret of the mosque had the form of a
   light tower.

                           
                          Wherever we went, we attract curious onlookers, "Wow from South Africa? and go Brunei? Solo?"

      
                                                               a sunny morning on the port of Al Mukalla

            
                        Al Mukalla seen from the fishing port                                        road users one has to recon with

   After Al Mukalla, the security situation improved. We travel d the whole day, police blocks a few and far apart. Not many road users
   we met, except goats on the way to graze. The coastline is beautiful as you can  see.

    

   It was 6:00 pm we climbed the last time up onto a pass in Yemen. 600 m above sea level was the border post. It was cold again.
   We were in good mood. Are we not out of the poor man's mess? Of half completed road projects seen so many along the way. 
   Asking a senior hotel employee: "Why is that new roads abruptly end without reaching the connecting end ?"  "Its corruption". he
   said. Money is siphoned into Politian's pockets. When there are demonstrations organized by the opposition then, just two weeks ago
   in Sana'a, the army shot into the crowd with life ammunition and killed two. "What in a democracy?" We could not believe. "Yes he
   said, the government declared it was not their soldiers or orders, these were outsiders using army uniform!"  He was bitter.
   The border formalities on the Yemen side were over within one hour, we took a deep breath of relieve and drove to the Oman side.
   Oman, rich country blessed with oil, organized, their pleasant people await us. Here we come, Great Sultanate, you are
   country number 23 on our relentless journey from South Africa's astonishing lands, their thieves and crooks, home to our beloved
   Brunei Darussalam.
   Here we come and look forward to meet you see and enjoy your beauty.
   These were our thoughts before we came to the border post. Until the officer said: "Your car a right hand drive, is not  allowed
   to enter Oman".
   For this developing surprise we were not prepared dear reader; not at all! If you wish to follow the happenings, you have to click Oman.