...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Hello, and welcome In Tanzania.

Sunday, late afternoon we crossed the border. It was a straight forwards issue with the exception of the moneychangers, a group
of youth, each with a bundle of cash in hand, surrounding us. "You get the best rate" they promised. 1240 shillings for one US$.
Good, but never accept the first offer. Playing one against the other and pretending to check the rate at a Forex container between
borders, we were able to push the rate up, until they fought each other. Finally we got 1248.- shillings for one US dollar.

On we rolled; The distances are just so huge. First climbing up to 2200 m then down to Mbeya a bustling town in 1800 m height,
just to turn into another camp ground for a night in our "Hotel de la Jambo" .By 11.00 pm they let the dogs loose! Five large black
Dobermans roam freely from 11:00 pm until 5:00 am morning. Do not, we repeat, do not go out during that time!

Monday 21--5-07

After a short breakfast, we were on our way towards Dar Es Salaam, only 870 km. About 260 km after Mbeya there is the
RUAHA National Park, completely remote, and we thought to visit it. 105 km away from the main road was the entrance. But
what a 105 km!
A bush road like corrugated iron roof sheets for 80 km. another 25 km of holes where Jambo fell from one into the other. It took us
four hours non stop driving until we reached the gate. And we were fast, Jambo took all the beating with bravery. What a fine machine.
The entrance fees lifted us out of the seat: US$ 120,- for 24 hours,. We were the only tourists.

Protected by the "soldier of fortune" (as he got a fine tip from us) we feel into sleep under mosquito net, accompanied by the calls
of the hippos grazing nearby. In the picture he hides his Kalashnikov behind the back.

Protector of our lives Elephant indication

Tuesday 22-5-07

The park was worth to come! They permit you to drive with your own vehicle, you stop where you like as long as you want. As such
we could see animals hard to come by somewhere else.

Our camp Sunrise over the hippo pool

One hippo greeting the other What's up guys? never seen a Bruneian?

The river is full with live! When Harun came too near to a hippo mother, she charged after him. I did not knew he could run that fast

croc pool Mobile "bone crusher"

The croc in the grass enjoying lazy the sunshine is a pretender! He glided into the water as soon as I approached and was not
seen anymore. I was standing close to shore, took some photos of hippos, the mugger reappeared in front of me, only the eyes were
over the surface. I accelerated my retreat! These creatures are dangerous as they are hardly recognizable. One thinks it is a junk of
tree floating, then slowly, very slowly they sink and swim under water just to emerge in front of you. They truly command respect.

Elephants on the contrary did not bother. If you stay in the vehicle, they look, but are not aggressive.

The same with giraffes and zebras . Stay in the car or better on the rooftop, you see more

We left the park early afternoon and took another road back. It was a longer but better drive, passing villages once in a while. It took
us again 3.5 hours until the tarred road leading North East.

It cannot be more straight!

Half way somewhere in the bush in a small village was a Masjid. Muslims have put together what they could afford to build
this house of Allah.

Opening the door, looking around we felt pain of sorrow, in which state the mosque was. The ceiling hung down, in Kiblat three
holy books, otherwise nothing. The separation hardboard to the women prayer side was rotten, the door eaten by termites. We felt so
sorry. If we had the funds and time, we would have repaired it on our own!

The little Mosque in the bush Separation to women section

The termite eaten entrance door Kiblat the ceiling fallen down

Shocked by the poverty, which does not allow to keep the house of Allah in order, we drove back to the main road, both in silence.

That evening we stay at the riverside camp, which we reached after another 120 km. Many young couples were there. We soon
learned at the dinner, they were linguists and missionaries from Europe, Canada and the USA. Send out to convert the locals to
Christianity. Well prepared they were, speaking at least two local languages. Some have been in Ghana, Cameroon and other
countries before.

Dinner among the linguists a the riverside camp

They translate the Bible into dialects and help, in writing the local history, draw children books and so on. Many tribes do not have
a written word of their own history. We do not know what to think of that. Somehow it is good, but also wrong what they do as it is an
organized activity. They are send to villages for this purpose only, and as such the villagers become victims.

We have not come across such an effort in ISLAM, but maybe I'm misinformed. Wondering we retired early into our "Hotel de la
JAMBO"

Wednesday 23-5-07

Nothing held us at the river camp and we left by 6:00 am, climbing the 2 km up to the main road were soon on our way to Dar Es
Salaam, only 590 km away. It was raining, but stopped around 8:00 am and the sun lured over the mountain top.

It was just nice that by coincidence there was a open grassy patch next to the road, not too dirty and we stopped to have our well
deserved breakfast. Cooker on, water in the pot. last bread out of our fridge, jam and peanut butter we still had from Mopsi the ground
squirrel in Namibia.
The smell of coffee in the nose, the first bite into the bread, a bus curved into the place. Doors open, all passengers rushing out.
I know some will not believe: Without shame or decency the men exposed and relieved themselves right in front of us. The women
squatting next to the tar road, maybe scared of snakes, and did the same in unison, all in a position like a sumo wrestler,
before attack.
I thought : "This is Africa!" The appetite was gone, we throw our items into Jambo and paced off.

95 km further a handwritten signboard next to the road. : "PREHISTORIC FINDS" Curious we drove the distance and came to a
sandstone eroded valley with pillars as we see them on the Labi road, just bigger. The towers are created, when a harder mass lies
on top of the sandstone. Around the rain washes soft material away. Not much to see except tools 60.000 years old. Dig out by
American archeological teams in the 1980 ties.

"JAMBO" Crossing mountains seas and rivers Way to prehistoric side

Sandstone formations Hand tools 60.000 years old

Later afternoon we arrived in Dar Es Salaam and checked into the Palm groove hotel. Tomorrow, we have to get our return tickets to
Europe and see the Embassy of Ethiopia and Sudan

Thursday 24-5-07

What a nice sleep. By 8:30 am we searched for the Ethiopian, but here is none in Dar Es Salaam. The Sudan Embassy we found,
"We can only issue a visa one month before" the officer said. And it is advisable if the Brunei authorities will give you a new letter with
a date close to your travel time, in September. Better they send a fax to us. And do not forget your marriage certificate." We
promised to do all that and beg our authorities for another letter. "Thank you Mr. Consul for your kind advise" and we left.

For lunch we scrapped our wallet and went for a chicken meal, looking forward to some fine food. The restaurant offered this menu
of eight pieces chicken for shilling 12.000.- about US$ 10.-. "Harun, lets do it and fill the belly, since we slimmed down on our
journey already." The plate came. What is this? We looked with open mouth to each other. Dear reader please you see yourself!
Is this a chicken? If, it had galloping consumption, before it died. That is a clear Tanzanian chicken cheat!

Madam please come here!" The waitress showed up. "Yes?"

The legs as big as a finger The French fries almost match the chicken breast in size

"Sorry to trouble you, but this is no chicken!" "What else is it then? Spaghetti?" she was aggressive. No, that is not what we mean.
Your chicken must have been starved to death. See, it has no flesh on the bones" She looked now upset." You are the first costumer
complaining today" and she gave us a sermon. We in Tanzania are not choosy, we eat what we get, and you must not forget that we
make good chicken soup." "Chicken soup?" "Yes we boil the chicken parts first because of salmonellas."
"So you boil the chicken until there is no meat left, then fry them in oil and serve it as fine fried no frill chicken? That means you make
money with the chicken twice!" She turned the head away." I'm not allowed to discuss the kitchen with costumers."

Staffed with Brochures , and a Brunei cap we went to the Tourism Board to meet the Marketing Director Mr. Amant. After the initial
conversation, we were soon on friendly terms inviting Tanzanians to Brunei. "Maybe not many tourists" he said, "but the business
people; They have the money to go." And I will also give the brochures to my collogue in the Ministry of Commerce." Our board is on
a tour to Australia in November, that is a good chance to come to Brunei too." Brunei will welcome you, please contact the Brunei
Tourism Board beforehand, Sheik Jamaluddin " I said, before we left.

In the Tanzanian Tourism Board with the Director of Marketing

The afternoon was lazy expect writing what you read. Tomorrow we drive to Arusha, the town under the Kilimanjaro, the very
mountain we climbed 6 years ago. It is the final distance of our first part in the Trans Africa expedition.

Friday 25-5-07

Standing on the shores of the Indian ocean in Dar Es Salaam, I looked to the horizon. A dhow sets its course, the sail up, as
done so for hundreds of years. It is the same type vessel, the Arabs and Indians used to trade down along this coast at forefathers
times. Those days back, foreign entrepreneurs set up trading posts and became over generations, successful merchants, which
dominate today the economical life in Dar Es Salaam and beyond. Recently, the Mainland Chinese push in driven by their desire to
become rich, (the sooner the better) using their established fellow brothers and, supported by their government. They set up businesses
by the dozen. Mostly in Export from China. Chinese characters show up on stores and dress shops. as back home, in Brunei. On the
Palm Beach we saw a 3 storey building, which is now converted into a "Chinese Hotel.", so the signboard said.

Feeling sorry for the Tanzanians, because the "raisins" in the economic cake were and will be picked by others; Some may carry a
Tanzanian passport, but that makes them not a true Tanzanian, as neither a Indian, nor a Chinese will ever marry a person with a dark
skin. They mingle among themselves, share the wealth among themselves and the locals the "Bumis of Africa" are left out, become
servants at its best, as they cannot match such financial power and cleverness.

I dipped my toes into the blue warm water. 10.000 km ago we stood in the West on the the cold Atlantic ocean which hammered
relentlessly onto the uninviting shores and here we are now on the East side of Africa on the Indian Ocean, listening at his and gentle
waves, splashing and turning the beach sand.

The gentle Indian ocean Palm beach Dar Es Salaam Tanzania

I'm thinking of my beloved Brunei. My home, which lies somewhere in the east a few thousand miles away and thoughts cross
mind: "After what I have seen in Southern Africa, I know what poverty can do to man. I only now truly realize what we enjoy. But, what
Allah has spread so lavishly, we must thankfully treasure, value and not waste....."

A black girl in her teens sat on a upside down turned boat in morning sun. From the look one could tell, she had slept somewhere on
the beach. She was bare feet, a bundle of cloth next by. Sitting and waiting until a good heart comes along to give her food or money.
Which tragic event made her to run away from home?" ' How long will it be until she is exploited for sex and made sick? She looked
at us with a begging face, and said nothing. There are so many of them. We gave but what is that? She does not need a small handout.
She needs a decent life!
Pushing all the saddening thoughts away we went back to the hotel. "Please talk a picture from us" said the two receptionists,

"We are waiting for a good husband..."

Maria prefers a pilot from RBA A 4w/d enthusiast is heir favorite

By 10.00am we left Dar Es Salaam. After many hours on a bumpy road, we reached Moshi town, 80 km ahead of Arusha. It was
still daylight. at a distance the Kilimanjaro, we conquered 6 years ago. Looking at it, memories came back of shivering cold climate, of
snow and rain, of exhaustion, but also of strength, our bravery and will to succeed.

"King of Africa" How many endless steps we had made?

Snowcapped, majestically and eternal stands the Kilimanjaro over Africa

Reaching Arusha by 8:00pm. Mr. Roman Chuwa of Equatorial safaris welcomed us. We stay in the same house as 6 years ago.
Oh girls from those days, Hajjah Norimah, Faridah, Jenny and Nona, I open the door to your rooms, but you are not here.

Equatorial Safaris, E.Mail: equatorial@habari.co.tz is a fine agency with a lodge on Lake Manyara National Park for overnight stay and
game viewing day and night. One is in good hands with these guys. and should you want to rent a land cruiser to be on your own, the
provide you one. You travel and discover Tanzania at your liking.
We will leave Jambo for 3 month until September in their compound.

Saturday 26-5-07

This day belonged to our vehicle. Jambo had to get a proper service, oil, grease, filters, new thermostat, and a replacement glass
was fixed into the rear door. In the market one finds almost anything.
It was here where we saw the Lingerie boutique.
As shoe soles are worn out from lots of walking, so permanent sitting will create holes where they are not supposed to be.
Norhayati went to find some underwear. But you, dear reader should know, that fashion lingerie which drives the African man crazy, is
in Arusha not sold in shops with fancy names, but rather in carriages along the road pushed by lingerie experts, that is young
men, always short of money.

Therefore the African lover who likes to warm the maiden heart with a little present, will stop here and search for heir liking. So did
Norhayati. And truly, the Guzzi's and Romano's, the Paris- and Bella Antonelly broidery will not match what is found here in this
mobile roadside boutique.

"This exquisite piece of garment will drive any man crazy" insisted the Lingerie specialist.

The green one is recommended when the lady eat too much vegetables, which sometimes in Africa can cause belly problem.

"This is the star of our collection!" he said." The super seller. Just look at the fine and tender color of rouge, harmonically integrated
in this masterpiece of creation. In fact it comes in double function. Should the need arise, it will fit a hippo too."

Unsuccessful we left the mobile lingerie boutique.

Sunday 27-5-07

Early morning up, we thought to use the day visiting The Maasai, the most known tribe of Kenya and Tanzania. 60 km west we
drove and turned south into the bush where only animals graze. bucks, ostriches and zebras, donkeys and the cattle herds.
Maasai are independent people. Slim and of slender feature, they are recognized quickly by their red/blue cloth. ( no other color will
do) You see them often in towns, a spear or stick in the hand a Parang, the bush knife on the waist. Their firm believe is, when the rain
God Ngai separated sky and earth, he entrusted the cattle to the Maasai.

Maasai land and desertification due to overgrazing A hut, the walls build with dung, cow urine and soil

The typical Maasai and the visitor from afar

Living off their cattle ,they drink cow blood mixed with milk, as their main diet which, they believe is good, especially for elderly and
children. A jugular vein is punctured and blood drained. The animal is cared for until the wound heals again. Although we saw maize
fields, meaning they supplement the diet these days. Settlements of 10 to 15 huts make the "Kraal", as we have seen in Namibia with
the Himbas, surrounded by thorn bush fence acting like a barbed wire. Huts are build with twigs, grass, cow dung and urine creating a
cement hard mixture when it dries in the sun. Maasai are rich by Tanzanian standards.

The reed covered roof of a Maasai hut Mother with kids

The two passengers and another two beauties

Osutu the Maasai girl Village chief, pierced ears, and his sons

We met the two Maasai on the bush road gesticulating for a lift. Up on the roof rack we took them along until the village, 18 km
further. In no time the folks were around our car. Curiosity driven, but very shy, they surrounded us, as they never have seen a Malay.
The chief and two man came first, then Mama , then slowly trickled the people from neighbors huts, then finally some kids.

Crying in the hut was a small boy, who running around the bush fence expecting nothing, saw me. He stooped as if hitting a wall.
Mouth open eyes big he looked. Then he decided best is to turn and run back into the safety of the hut and there he made a concert
to be heard over the mountains.

Masideh the girl looks at the photo of her, just taken

Does the kid feel the flies? Massai sandals made from old tire.

One truly pity the kid with all the bacteria ridden flies. But it seems not to bother her or the mother. There is surely some health
education needed. Are they immune? One day with those flies in and around my mouth, I would get the plague, the rabies and hundred
other diseases....

The right picture shoes the footwear of a Maasai. Sandals made of a tire. Do not fall into the mistake thinking they are poor. A Maasai
family will have up to 1000 cattle and still wear these everlasting "walking comforters." Poor is in Maasai terms, who owns only fifty
animals. (The common African has one trouser, broken shoes and two shirts.) Now Harun wears also a pair, If you meet a guy in red
sarong, with some goats along Jalan Tutong that is him! Maasia "Kasuti on the feet." They had to make his sandals from a lorry tire.
A saloon car tire was too small for his "14 inch king-size" feet..

village chief and two advisors, own together 750 cattle Two ladies of the village

Just look at the beautification of these Maasai girls, the silver ear ornaments and necklaces

On the way back we found a young Kori bastard at the road side. The bird was hit by a truck and we took him along to the village
and begged the Maasia not to kill him, but rather help him to recover. Who knows if he is still alive two days later?

This is Kori found on the roadside He was comforted in the video bag while traveling with us

It was late afternoon we reached Arusha and our home again. A "bucket water splash" carwash took the dust off our car.

     Monday 28-5-07

     In the morning we did our packing, It is unbelievable how much we thought to take back. And got sad news. Our marketing agent
send a e-mail, that RBA will stop flying to Frankfurt. And since other airlines are more costly, our Eco tourism tour might not be
marketed anymore. RBA is our flag carrier, the window through which the world see us!

Later the day I had an Interview in the Tanzania Radio-TV station. The questions were lengthy;" What? you come from South Africa?
How is Brunei, it is so rich, and what do you think, Tanzanians can do, to improve their live?" "Agriculture" I suggested. "Do not bring
your money to the market to buy, but rather plant next by where you live, as done in Asia. The Chinese plant even in pots where there
is no land available. Do spend your money on education of your children; that is much better." On Tourism I recommended "Brunei as
a sport and family destination. It is a fine place, especially for children." They were impressed. The interview will be aired on 30-5-07
8:pm evening. The journalist Mr. Noel Thomas promised me a tape upon our return. Tanzanians are friendly and peaceful people.

They encourage investment and as seen they are the most skillful ones of our journey so far.

After the interview in the Arusha International Convention Center RTD Cameraman filming our "Jambo"

The cameraman: "If I only had the money I would visit Brunei"

In the afternoon, we finally wrapped our vehicle in black plastic, jacked it up and supported under the axels. Clean and neat is
JAMBO waiting for us. The Alternator had to come out, as the voltage is fluctuating. The air-condition fan did not run in the 3rd stage.
We fix these minor repairs in Kota Kinabalu, then our mobile mini hotel and sturdy cross-country machine should be fine again. Now,
Jambo has a rest for three months.

Waiting for our return

For the last evening we had been invited to a wedding party by Mr. Roman and his wife.

With dinner guests A Tanzanian beauty

A lady in traditional Tanzanian dress On our last evening

Tuesday 29-5-07

"Two luggagi stori for two hours costi you tenthusandi Tanzani shillingi- or ten dollari" the storage man told us in Swahili engischi.
We had arrived at Dar Es Salaam airport in the morning and wanted to look around ,without our luggage load. The flight was in the
afternoon, there was lots of time.

"Tenthusandi schillingi? Are you no make misteiki?" Harun asked. :"No misteiki;, or europi moni.ten".I cut in: "In New Yorki
amerikanski and Bruneii malayiii costi storagi suitcasi justi two dollari. "Sorry medem," My Masta spiiki :" tenthousandi shillingi.
Mani thiefi" he enforced with rolling eyes his statement

A Massai porter carried our 31 kg suitcase to the first floor restaurant, where we spend the hours waiting. There is no lift or escalator.
Offloading the suitcase he likely had now flat feeti and the right arm was a two inchi more longi than the left.
The thousendi shillingi porter fee he well deservi . We makani (ate) for all Tanzani shliiingi we had lefti, a pizzi with limonadi.
Qatar airways was punctual; we are on our way to Europe.

Epilog: 11.683 km was our distance with all the diversions from Port Cape town South Africa, to Arusha, Tanzania. We have
seen a beautiful piece of our God given earth.

We bear witness to the black mans struggle. Immense poverty, resulting in murders and thievery, break ins and clever trickery,
experienced also on me back in Namibia. We saw the exploitation of women with a ruthlessness beyond our comprehension. Sex -
slave trade in the 21st century.( Warning poster in Malawi and Zambia border). In South Africa the doctors, lawyers, the engineers, all
academics, this colored or white minority leaves for Australia if they get a visa. There is a resignation over this beautiful land, because
of the uncontrolled lawlessness. No one is safe. "Can I go to your country?" asked the police chief in Muizenberg.
How will South Africa cope with this brain drain? If nothing is done, it cannot. "South Africa is going down. The result is more hunger,
more killing. "Mbeki must do something" is the tenor of sensible people we talked too. Blacks and whites. "And Namibia follows
already" said the white workshop manager in Windhoek. "Can these people not work together for a prosperous future all enjoy?"

Those countries, the pearls of Africa, the best developed ones, are falling back.

The African himself, driven to towns in search for a good life has lost his roots. If you have capital in money or kind, such as the
Himbas or Maasai, you can maintain your culture. Nothing will disturb your confidence and you go your way, slowly adjusting,
rejecting what is not good for your people. But if you are born into this world by illiterate parents which do not know, how they got you,
how to care for you, how to feed you or to educate, to dress, then your chances are very limited.

rich Himbas

In the seven weeks of our journey, we met many Africans hearing of our beautiful Brunei for the first time. All were interested to
know more. We encountered fine and friendly people who approached us with openness and wishing safe journey truly from the heart,
Policemen and Army boys on roadblocks of which there are so many. They have nothing and demanded nothing. Often we gave from
our fridge a cool bottle of water to the police man, standing hours somewhere in the hot sun. He is a human as we. With closed eyes
he enjoyed the cool liquid. But Positive needs negative!

There were the policemen demanding cash. Therefore, we became smart too. The wallet held only a few minor currency notes with a
sour face, full of "I'm very sorry" Harun told them, how willing he is to give, but unfortunately he is just now (!) broke, and has no
money left. Off course doing such important job, they must have what is in the wallet and he show them the empty one " but he would
be most grateful if one of them- only this time- could borrow him some funds for diesel, which he will surly send back if they only
trust. That usually ended their demand.

In poor countries, where out of seven men, one has a job, there are always very rich people, often the wolfs of society, being politician
or bandits. Caring nothing about the suffering of their fellow man, who, without hope of a normal paid job or education for his children,
without clean water or electricity, struggles along, surviving by the day. No money for a doctor, none for school, none for a nutritious
meal to fill the bellies of his kids. And so, the father becomes one day a thief, steals food in the supermarket and repeats it, if not
caught. He is torn between honesty and happiness, when seeing the sound sleep of his children, (on the bare earth) which had-maybe
since years for the first time a full belly- with a stolen meal. He gets more drastic, in time and becomes used on living by robbery.
How much is he to blame? How much a society which ignores his cries? There is no happiness for him, except "sex" said one man.
"Nothing else we have". And he mingles with women of the lowest sort. They're not checked for AIDS. He brings the deadly disease
home to his wife, both die over time. 1 million orphans has Malawi alone and Ten thousand people die on Aids every day in Sub Sahara
Africa." Said a Muslim doctor we talked to, in Lusaka.

The Young must have reason to hope, not only facing desperation!

Many Politician use their power only to enrich themselves, lead their country like the blind Himba girl: "She has open eyes but
see nothing!"

Will never see the sunlight; The blind Himba girl He has to have a birthright for a decent life

... food and clean water (well pump paid and installed by EU)

We will end this first part of our Trans Africa journey with some pictures. Behind every one is a story, much too long to tell in the
web page. But perhaps, Allah permitting, our travels will become a book one day.

An old man; his days are numbered Their days are yet to come

handouts should end one day

To all Muslim "Assalamulikum" and thank you all for your prayers. A special thanks to all donors which had faith in us, but as you
know, the journey continues. The diesel prices broke almost our neck. Between B$ 1.50 and B$ 2,50/ liter.

To the Deputy Minister of Industry and Primary Resources Dato Hamdilah and the Tourism boss, Sheik Jamaluddin, a
"Big Thank you" too. Often we thought, without you, the journey would have been much more difficult or even impossible.

Thanks to Pengiran Salleh Ab Rahman, to Hj Abd Saman and his Freight Forwarding Association, and Royal Brunei Airlines.
A very big "Thank you" to Fauzidah Hj.Mat Noor our golden staff which kept the company flag flying. She is one of the best. To famous
writer Ignatius Stephen and Malon the web miracle man.

In September we continue, venturing into foreign cultures, through Kenya into Ethiopia the land of long history, where the Queen of
Sheba once reigned, and lastly the deserts of Sudan' where along the northern Nile all roads end and the desert wind hauls the
everlasting song of hardship and loneliness. Where the Arab proverb becomes reality that "Allah created the desert to have one
place to wander undisturbed." We hope to meet the Almighty be it in the dark eyes of a child or in the myriad of stars in a black cold
desert night. One has just to look with the heart.

To Eva and Wolfgang who gave us US$ 500.- to spend on poverty, we still have about 450.- left. We found it difficult. Spending funds is
great responsibility. We hope it will be possible up North.
To all others many thanks for coming with us, thanks for your encouraging mails and see you again when the journey continues.
Just click then Kenya. We now in Austria, will return to Brunei around the 15-6-07.

Another day rising, in beautiful Africa

Our routing from Cape town to Arusha on the foothills of the Kilimanjaro

11.683 km and 6 countries

Brunei in July 07

     Ha ja! There is nothing more boring than a web page without movement. So, we are here now again with some interim stories
   which by nature should give you, noble reader fun and food for thought. We will return to Tanzania already ending July at the latest,
   to bother you with the African world and adventures through our eyes. Just to get a few visas in Kuala Lumpur, then we are off. We
   cannot wait until September.

   Back in Tanzania our "Hotel de la Jambo" the Land cruiser, sitting on woodblocks is keen to move. Surely at night once in a while
   he rotates the wheels by himself, just to check if all is OK. The alternator and the aircon-fan was fixed in Kota Kinabalu by famous
   INDAH JADI and the always grumbling Mr. Chan. Do not be deceived by his look. He will do a good job. That is no promosi but the
   simple fact. Packed in the suitcase, the parts await our departure, which should be on or around the 17th of July.
   Let me confront you with this man, Harun. Forgetting his glasses he thought - heaven knows why- he is in Pamplona the
   famous Spanish town where once a year the bulls are chased through the streets by young men (or the other way around) on their
   way to the arena and sure death.

You can see on the body language how careful he lured the hippo, which was not in mood for a joke and charged at once.

"Burro! Brrrr! Burrooo! come...come...Brrr Burro"

"Bloody meery!"

He run - the picture tells it- until the gate of the park, two miles away. Hiding behind some park warden which asked whether he
had ants in his pants. He declined to answer. I needed the tire pump to support his breathing system for a hour.

   Africa is full of wonders. You see the guy has stainless steel needles "going through his left leg." They are his daily bread. Standing
   at the junction with a face expressing unbearable pain he prey on the good hearth of the passing motorists. A good location, as who
   owns a car will have some coins.
   In the evening at home he dismantle the bandage remove the bracing and count the coins he made today, put on his fine shoes and
   goes for a drink with his friends. One needs ideas in Africa to survive.

"Broken bones, Pain and crunches." Who could resist to give?

"Just look" she said; These are some of the donors for the journey.

   "These are people with spirit" she continued:. "I could donate a cow which, should they run out of money- pull JAMBO along the road.
    The estimated arrival time on the Mediterranean sea is after 1500 days or in 2012. True, travel is expensive. We estimate B$18,000.-
    to reach Europe.

    It is the 14^th July and nine days more to go until we leave for Africa to continue our journey up North. Not only we. The Malaysian
   Army boys, 50 of them will start their expedition as we did in Cape town, traveling North, turning East in Sudan towards Kuala
   Lumpur.
   For the 50th anniversary of their Independence. The spirit of their nation is behind them; technical and financially.
   With thirteen vehicles it is always easier, as one can depend on the other, a luxury we do not enjoy, as we travel alone. Brave
   soldiers they are. But yes our spirit is high and by beginning Oct. 07 we have reached Europe. At least that is our aim.

The army boys on the move

But back to Africa:

      Beautiful Tanzanian beaches are popular tourist destination.
   Here all is found what an exhausted European Towner desires. Sunshine and a warm ocean, bars, African beat music and barbeques.
   Singles are quick acquainted and boredom is a word not known in this part of the world.

   Many North European males come for sensual holidays, found right here. Is it not said that African girls are like little cats?
   Untamed, wild and furious especially when the lover is reluctant to pay? And is it not, that such love affair, even if only a
   “cash for favor” relation, is found in the innermost dreams of the North Europeans, well known for a temperament, cold as their
   weather, most of the year.

     Erikson Svenstenson, now in his 50ties had come too. But not alone. 4 packets of the blue pills in the pocket comrade him.
   When lately he crawled to his wife back home in Trondheim for the 1 x in 6 month “due”, she directed him to the cold shower
   instead. With curler in the hair there was no mood for his shy advances. “It will not happen here” he assured himself.
   After a bottle of wine, moral levels change and the temptation rises. “All cats are black at night” the saying goes. So, he too falls for
   an African “beauty” he would not walk with in daylight.
   But not only males.

     How many ladies of all ages come for a single holiday, fulfilling their dreams of strong arms and muscles, of which there are plenty
   around? Young African males, strolling along the beach looking for the next romance (the last just left with the plane) and a good life.
   Is it not better to sleep in fine linen with a white lady at the side, as sharing the floor mat with the little brothers in his hot, one room
   home?
   These sun and fun seekers left Europe and their marriage temporary behind, longing for a “wildlife” safari holiday. Soon they are
   surrounded, and the nightly secret arrangements are fixed. What else is the mobile phone for in such circumstances?
   So far so bad.
   Such an episode does not always end with the departure and the farewell waving from the airport gallery. We know seed is usually
   carried by wind and birds; but also as in this case by plane.

When the happy, long expected day has arrived the African beach affair becomes obvious.

I swear! The girl is yours, Daddy

It would take a heartless father not to accept such a “black Cuckoo” in the family nest. Or?
What you say?

29-07-07 In Carinthia/Austria

     We had arrived in Frankfurt with our fine National airline RBA, in a good, short flight as we slept for hours. The service was superb
   and if you, dear reader have not yet flown RBA, try it! The stewardesses are charming, their attitude is excellent. Any grumbling
   man will smile at their approach. I wonder how many request for a date they get during a month of flying. We connected the same
   morning to Vienna. With NIKI airline. Frankfurt-Vienna was a nice flight and the picture is proof ! That is famous Nikki Lauda the F1
   world champion who piloted the plane
   and Norhayati -a least for some time- besides him. Nikki Lauda was F1 world champion had a terrible crash lost almost his life in a
   fire, was patched together in spectacular operations, started an airline, flew into financial troubles, needed cash, went back to F1 and
   raced to become again world champion.

Now he owns and flies sometimes his own NIKI airline.

Arriving at Vienna at noon we went straight to the Sudan Embassy. Standing at the closed portal I read the signboard.

Consulate of the Republic of Sudan

open from 9:00 am to 12:00.

I looked at my watch it was 12.30pm.

The finger on the bell "riiiiing" We waiting and hoped. A male voice came through the speaker. "We are closed." Sir, we are very
sorry but we just come from Brunei and need a visa form please!

   The door opener buzzed we run up the stairs and into the consulate. Next to a couch table 2 Sudanese women enjoying their finger
   food lunch. Again: "we are very sorry but please help us we are on Trans-Africa overland expedition and come direct from Brunei.....
   One cleaned her hand and took the passports, looked and said, "fill the forms and pay Euro 90.- (B$ 190.-), come back in 3 days."

For the entry to Sudan

     Madam please we are sorry (again!) but we need more visas and have to come all the way from Carinthia which is 280 km away.
   Can we pay for an expedited service please? "No need to pay, come tomorrow after 11.00 am. But in Sudan do not drive into the
   desert" was the warning she gave to us. We drove to Carinthia and back next morning, 560 km. By 11:30 am we had our passports
   with visa.
   The Syrian consulate we reached at 13:05, just to read on the board it closes at13:00hr,the door was already locked.

The guarantee to see Palmyra, Damascus and much more

     When a visitor went out we sneaked through the entrance." Please forgive us, we know we are late but..." explaining.
   They accepted exceptionally our request and shorten the visa time from three days to one. I submitted the documents with the
   Ministry of Foreign Affairs support letter of Mr. Anuar bin Lisa, as well as the one of Department of Tourism. Yet they advised me,
   that I should have collected my one in Malaysia. But will give it exceptionally because of the support documentation and since my
   husband is Austrian. Come tomorrow by 11:00 am. Overnight we drove to Carinthia and back again next morning. Distance was still
   the same, 560 km.

We got the visa by 12:00pm.

   The Turkish Consulate is open from 2:30 to 4:00 pm, it was the last we visited. These guys were the fastest. "Fill the form, one
   picture, pay, come back tomorrow." " Sir, please we are from Carinthia and have to drive over 500 km....." He looked at me and
   decided: " Wait outside." 5 minutes later the man came and smiling, he gave me the passport.

the famous Sufis in Konya are on our plan

   At last we got all visas needed, but you still miss the story of the Ethiopian one, which we got from JAPAN, while still back in Brunei.
   The visa is issued in Tokyo and cost US$ 80.-. By courier service we send our documents and the proof of our telex transfer.
   An E mail followed: ("we have transferred by TT.....kindly speed up as we travel out...) But no reply from the Embassy for 3 days.

Ethiopia visa for the Omo valley

     I called up. "We got only US$ 60.-". "But madam we paid US$ 80.- plus the transfer costs and you have the proof!" "Sorry only
   US$ 60.-"
   Downtown to the Bank. "Please explain what has happen here."
   "Yes" the bank lady said, this is because all transactions go via New York and that cost US$20.-."    "Wait a minute! No one asked
   you to send my Japan transfer to Bush America! Your bank snipes from a US$ 80.- transfer US$ 20.-
   away, that is 25%." I was angry. "So, why do you do that?" "Regulations" said the lady. "Every transfer goes via New York.".

   I wonder: has anyone interest to monitor money movements? ( including yours if you are with them ) and perhaps record it? Or do
   they simply want to get more money by using such a system. Defending it as "streamlined Bank internal operations". Or both?
   This is enough! We pack out from this bank although 15 years with them and bank in future with STANDARD CHARTERED, as this
   management shows spirit and fairness. Why? you may ask.
   For one, SCB was the only bank to give a donation to our TRANS-AFRICA Expedition.
   For two, dear reader, you remember the crook in Namiba? Who stole my SCB credit card so cleverly to draw B$ 6000.- until I could
   block it?
   I received an E-Mail from the SCB which I share with you: "In view of the circumstances that led to the fraudulent use of the
   card, the bank consents in good will your liability to B$ 1500.- only....the bank will absorb the balance. "
   Reading this mail in Austria, almost with tears in my eyes I thought there are more people in Brunei who care and share patriotism.

Pg Hjh Roziana bte Pg. Hj Muhidi and who ever else helped I thank you for this good will gesture. It is so welcome. We need
all our funds on the way.

   Now here in the Alps of Austria we pack and repack, make arrangements, and on Tuesday 31-7-07 we fly via Doha back to Dar Es
   Salam and Arusha...
Qatar airways had no seat for us, and it needed the help of the Tanzanian Qatar office to get one. But these are minor problems
   compared to the ones we still have to face until that day JAMBO will be back in Brunei.. Therefore we do not bother much.

And here is something else. We rented a car on our arrival. It was booked via the internet and we got a good deal. A fast, small
almost new VW polo. When returning it on Klagenfurt Airport the elderly employee checked the mileage and gasped for air.

   "In 3 days you drove 1800 km!". He knocked the speedometer instrument in disbelieve thinking of a mechanical error." No error, that
   is three times Vienna and back" said Harun. "We must charge you extra mileage". But Harun had his finger already pointed to a
   passage of the contract which said "unlimited mileage". Still gasping for air he took a small spoon and a medicine bottle out of his
   pocket, counted 7 drops and with a sugar cube poured it down the throat. I got a glimpse of he label. " Hearth pain Remedy"

"It's bitter" he said "But I need it with this high mileage".

Tuesday 31-7-07

The "installment" flight meaning stopover in Doha was without events, so was the night in a fine hotel and the journey to Dar Es
Salam. "We are checking your luggage until Arusha through", said the Qatar airways lady in Vienna. But beware of empty promises!

Wednesday 1-8-07

   We arrived in Tanzania. Just for the safety Harun went to the baggage claim area in Dar Es Salaam and what was dumped there?
   Our suitcases.   Later evening we arriving in Arusha, Jambo was still wrapped like a birthday present.. A happy moment to see our
   fine machine again

Thursday 2-8-07.

Harun installed the alternator and aircon. fan, the right springs got rubber bushings, By the turn of the key, the engine was running.

Check of Jambo in Arusha

     We needed to top up aircon. gas and went to the towns fridge fixer. One could recognize his shop on the large amount of cool
   boxes standing around the entrance door.
   "Can you top up our gas? Shillingi 70.000.-. (US$ 55.-) When he saw our long face he said "But for you only 50.000.-"

   He connected the gas bottle for about 3 minute but the fan still blow warm air." He came around held his hand onto the fan outlet
   and with a mimic of a school principal he said: "Cooli already !" It took our car thermometer to prove the airflow was 28 degree
   warm. Then he realized that he forgot to open the gas bottle." Sorri is no fridgi"       It was our last night in Arusha.

Friday 2-8-07

By 7:00 am we were on the road up north to the Kenya a 108 km away. JAMBO run Like a Swiss watch and two hours later
we were at the border.

If you dear reader, are not too bored, click KENYA. Our travel continues.