Nepal

     Tuesday 18-3-08

   Being now in Nepal, we were in  good mood traveling the National highway towards East between fields of rice, barley and wheat. It
   was late afternoon.
   We were happy to have escaped the murderous driving of India unharmed, although traversing Nepal to the East, we will still enter in
   India in Sikkim while going towards the Myanmar border. But there, hopefully the traffic is reduced. Although the uncontrolled "I must
   be first" maneuvers may remain.
   Nepal. How many times  I thought of you? Longing to meet you and your people. The unsurpassed beauty of your women. How many
   mountains are in the Himalaya ,this abode of gods, for man to conquer? I was looking forward to meet you with open arms.
   To embrace this awesome land, named by the ancients, Hamarant or "Abode of snow" a place full of legend and religion. Set in
   between the Himalayan range and the Mahabharat was a mystical holy lake. Nepalese legend speak of an island  containing the
   eternal flame of primordial Buddha. Manjushree the manifestation of Buddha came to worship here.
   We in Brunei know only the Gurkhas, fearless fighters in existence since 1818 when defeated by the Brits, Nepalese soldiers went to
   service of the British crown. Henceforth in the famous Gurkah regiments. In Brunei they protect important instillations such as our RTB
   and others, which we the Bumi Malay are not able, or trusted to. Only in 1953 Mt Everest the highest point on our planet was
   conquered by the New Zealand guy Edmund Hilary together with  Tenzing Norgay the Nepalese.

   Now we  had open eyes again for photo opportunities, for beauty and the wondersome. We  met a few  girls returning home from the
   village market.

         
                                   caring for the wheat                                                                      relaxed strolling home

    
       a self knitted wool cap on a girl with a nice feature                                            Tourists are welcome in Nepal

   The books tell us  that Nepal with 141000 sq km is about 22 times larger than my beloved Brunei. The population of 23 million speaks 
   93 languages,  comprising 104 ethical groups. In the past  the caste system was applied rigorously. On the lower end the Kamaiya.
   Along the road we saw shanty huts on riverbeds and wondered whether those are refugees.

       
                                 Kamaiya homes                                                     Breaking stones into gravel see the color dots? People.

   "No" said Tharu our park  guide we met later, these are freed Nepalese. "Freed from whom?"  "From the landlord." These are farmers
   who have borrowed over time money from the landlords and could never pay back. The salary is too little. They are forced to work for
   him a life long, never earning enough to pay the debt. And their children too. "
   But this is slavery" I commended. "Sort off" he said. "They could never pay the landlord even in the second generation" Now since we
   have a democratic government, the constitutional Assembly recommended to cancel all debt by law. It happen 8 years ago. They are
   free now. But where to go? Many find a living by working for construction companies. Breaking up stones into gravel along riverbeds.
   I did not know what to say. Are we not in the 21st century?

                        
                                             Slaves for life?  now no more the owing has been cancelled by the government

   These days the luring of voters is in full swing. The former king Gyanendra who - so is murmured - killed his brother in 2001 to gain the
   throne, is scrapped of all his powers, although the official version is, that the son and crown prince killed the Royal family before
   turning the gun on himself. Three main parties compete for votes now, two are communists. The Maoist  communist party and the
   Marxist Lenin communist party. What does a Nepalese farmer know about the terrible consequences of the Marxist Lenin experiment
   in Russia? This horror was financed by the "movers of world events "Wall Streets Khazar bankers  all of them Jewish.
   (Rockefeller, Wartburg,Kuhn, Loew and others). With 40 million gold dollar in his treasure box, Mr. Lenin and colleagues went to
   Russia to make revolution,   which in the course of time cost 60 million (yes you read right) Russians their life.
   How can the Nepalese voter judge and choose the   correct government form, best for him and the people?
   He does hardly read and write, an easy prey for lies. He only want a good life  for his family.
   The communist experiment ended in Russia.  In Nepal it show its ugly head again.

                                                             
                                                                                      communist symbol

   Before nightfall we reached Bardia National park which had a signboard promising plenty wildlife and were directed to a lodge where a
   night cost us only 500 Nepalese rupees which is B$ 16.-.After arranging a day walk in the park for the
   morning, we went to bed happy and eagerly.

     Wednesday 19-3-09

   By 7:00 am we had breakfast and with a  guide we went through the park. Flora and fauna resembles somehow our forest in the
   Ulu Belait. Leave trees, bamboo, rattan, flowers, all seemed to be like home.

                 
                                 Driveway through the park                                                              Rattan just as in Brunei

   Sporadically they had installed watchtowers where, from vantage point we could overlook the park.

   Although the park is small it was supposed to be well stocked with wildlife. We saw lots of Lemurs, fish otters and deer, eagles and
   parrots, just as back home in Brunei. Wild boars, pythons, and last not least elephants.

   Sitting on the riverbank of the Sonaha, I felt relaxed and peace around me. The elephant further upstream splashed himself with water
   he sucked with his trunk from the riverbed, on the tree sat our guide in constant outlook for more. I drifted into a dream. It was the year
   2012. His Majesty had just received the prestigious  wildlife award for outstanding contribution to wildlife conservation. He had ordered
   back in 2008 the construction of a wildlife Refugio in the area of Sungai Ingai in Ulu Belait. Only 400 square km it contained all
   endangered species of Borneo. The tourist come now by plane-loads, daily. I was happy. Then a shout interrupted this nice dream: 
   "Rhino!" It was our guide Tharu who pointed the river up.

                         
   Next to the elephant, a Rhino shown up obviously undisturbed by the presence of the elephant. We slowly sneaked closer to get a
   better shot. They were actually two in a pool.

              
   It was a mother with her little one. When we came too close for comfort, she run up and into the bushes, protecting her baby, caring
   for it by heir natures instinct. That is what is all about Eco tourism. Observing wildlife in the free. We too have Rhinos and elephants in
   the Kinabatangan delta, their habitat threatened by Oil palm plantations. How nice they would find a new home in Sungai Ingai.

   On the way home we stopped at a village to look around. Typical houses are made of  two vertical center poles to hold the roof, four
   more for corners in-between branches as you can see, straw and mud two storey's high.  

    
                                                                                                                                   Ghar House        
        
   Here is one under construction. The floor for the upper area is made with tree branches, straw and plenty mud. Hard work for the
   whole family. And still all are laughing and joking

                                           
                                                  Hard work and still a smile                                               Tharu Girl

                         
                     such a pot of mud was heavy it had 10 kg at least. They needed to spread it onto the floor straw, three inch thick

   "It was not bad day", we concluded and tomorrow it should be even better. We were advised to take a river down drifting in an
   inflatable rubber boat  through the park to which we agreed, although the price was high for our budget.

     Thursday 20-3-08

   Our river down day became a disaster in terms of wildlife. Neither the  promised river dolphins, nor the tiger was anywhere near. We
   had left our camp in the morning for a sunny  day on the water.

                
          waiting for the boat. The Karnali river coming from the Himalayas was crystal clear                a village girl fetching water

              
                                          ducks on the riverbank                                                 and a river village maiden smiling kind and gentle

         
                                  some guys on domestic elephants                                                  cheerful and young  Sonaha girls 

   We met women " finger fishing" in the river. No, you may think about the packed "fish fingers" from the supermarket. Women are
   searching for sucker- and tiny catfish under the stones, just as one finds in the Temburong river.          
                                                                         

      They "finger" for fish under stones, and find plenty of them, including some sweet water prawns.
      I got one too, not that big though just for the hollow tooth as the  saying goes. The water has about 23 degree and as such is   
      warm, allowing the women to search for hours.

                                         
                                                                                 turning stone by stone, feeling for fish

   The hours went on, further downstream we  met these guys burning grass. We wondered if this was the correct thing to do.

                      
                                      Harun always looking forward.                                                   some tiny rapids in-between.

                                                 
   A group of brown Ruddy Shelduck and Egret waited us out. Usually they fly away. But this time not, maybe to greet us farewell.
   We had reached after 5 hours the camp. It was around 3:00pm.
   I said to myself:  "All this what we saw here, what generates tourism income for the people, could be done in Brunei, around the
   Sungai Ingai. The Belait river gentle flowing, would be  perfect for observation too."

     Friday 21-3-08

    It was 9:00 a.m and time to leave our  lodge to travel eastbound on the national road. Somewhere we found an internet connecting
    point.
   They transfer bit by bit. For 4 RTB pictures it took 25 minutes. On the North side  mountains, on the right, the south, flat plains, rice
   and wheat fields. Sporadically a farmer village. The National road wounds it way through like an endless worm, It was night when we
   checked into  village hotel and  holiday. Coloring day. People run around with pained faces and I had no option but get some onto
   myself too. "Why do you paint?" we asked. "It is religious" was the answer. "Why, what is the reason?" No one seemed to know. But
   all had paint in the face.

      Saturday 22-3-08

   We had stopped last night in the town of Budwal about  220 km before Kathmandu for the night and were now slowly climbing up to
   the capital itself, which lies  above 1300m. 

    
                                                                 On the way up to Kathmandu

   Along the road, the icy waters of the Trisuli are flowing from the glaziers of the Himalaya since millions of years. Over time cutting a   
   gorge into the rocks. These days the river is used for  rafting, lots of Europeans come to ride the wild waters. The road along   
   the mountain curves dangerous close by. On the other side live hill farmers, cut of from supply on the roadside. Once every 20 km
   spans a pedestrian suspension bridge, allowing the crossing. We met a one man business, a cable taxi. The man had constructed a
   metal bench hanging on two steel cables, and was pulling his transport vehicle from one side to the other. Persons and material, food
   and animals, hung high in the air. Below the waters thundered over boulders finding their way into the valley below.

        
               hill farmers on the other side  of the river                                                   the lofty cable taxi crossing

   It was late afternoon when we reached Kathmandu and loaded the web page, as the first thing to do. As every day towards the 
   evening, the light goes out in Nepal. Today by 5:30 pm it was off  and only on again by 9:00 pm. This is candle light time for the
   Nepalese and visors such as us, sleeping in guesthouses where a generator is out of reach.

      
               The Kathmandu valley opens up in front of us                       over 50 monuments are located in one area, the Durbar square

                                            
                                                                                        part of Kathmandu
 
     Sunday 23-3-08

   The foundation of Kathmandu goes back to 300 A.D. From the 14th century on, in the golden age the splendid Durban Squares with   
   temples and shrines  were developed. Surrounded by padi fields in emerald green, in the north towers the Himalaya, Kathmandu faces
   urban stress with motorcycles, cars  and pollution. Concrete buildings replace the old brick dwellings. Temples are in array, there is no
   money for  restoration. Kathmandu is the tourist hub for the Himalaya and its highest peaks on earth. Tourists roam here by the
   thousands being either on the way to a trekking tour or just returning, often visible on the stork like walk caused by muscle pain.
   Treks can take a hour or a month. To experience Nepal you have to walk. Then the memory of the scenery and the friendliness of the   
   people will be with you for your life.

   The center of Kathmandu is the old city and the structure from which it derives its name. Kasthamandap "house of wood" Not less
   than 50 various monuments in this area of  ten acres, represent Nepalese art. Countless craftsmen employed their skill in a period of
   200 years. Not only humans are attracted, even divine beings look around like Shiva and Parvati leaning out of the window at the
   Astayogini temple.

                    
                                        The Astayogini temple  with Shiva and Parvati. Finest woodcarving.

                                       
                                     GISCOM tracker in Kathmandu Even the Rischka driver knows where he is....

              
                             Old house with woodcarvings                                                                 detail of a deity
  
   Why there are so many goods in Hinduism? They say "33 millions" of them, all have various duties and function. When devotees enter   
   a temple they ring a bell, this is done to get the mind inwards and concentrated. Incense give fragrance to indicate the ego should melt 
   down. Flowers are offered as token of great respect. Why so many images in the first place? Ill informed persons may believe hat a
   deity is nothing more than an idol No, not at all. They are used to concentrate, they become a vehicle to take us to one destination, to
   the ultimate reality of oneness. Some deities have several arms or heads, they indicate several qualities.

                    
                          Lord Ganesh the god of Obstacles                                     Garuda is half man, half bird (see the wings)
                                                                                                                 he represents energy and divine power                     

             
                           this farmer represents poverty                                                                 and hard labor

   Unfortunate men sleep around the temples in the morning sun. Also this farmer. See his hands? When he woke up he had a generous  
   tip in his coat. So the young man too, sleeping on the erotic temple.
   It is a good feeling to give for the sake of giving expecting nothing in return.

     
       The fellow slept on the doorsteps of the erotic temple.                                  The  temple with the erotic carvings

   These close ups are no pornography but expressions of erotic life. The temple was build in the 16th century. The UNESCO restored it
   in the 1990ies to preserve this extraordinary woodwork.

      
   Please dear  reader, see it as what it is, pure art in woodcarvings. Life back then was pretty much the same as now.

   At the end of this square is the residence of the living goddess, called Kumari Gha

         
            The courtyard ; windows with  fantastic woodcarvings                                    and the very low entrance
            the goddess appears from the middle window

   This small monastery was build in 1775.The Royal Kumari is a girl, selected from particular Buddhist families at an age of 4 - 5 years.
   According to popular believe she is the incarnation of Durga, one of eight  mother goddesses.

   When she is selected she should bear 32 specific qualities, some of them are blue or black eyes. white teeth without gap, a sonorous
   voice, long slender arms, soft hands and feet. Sound of mind and she must be courageous as animals are scarified before here. Her
   horoscope should be compatible with that of a king.
   This living goddess virgin is worshiped by Buddhist and Hindu alike, but foreigners  are not allowed to see her.

                                  
                                         Rashmil Kumari a (former) Goddess                                     So much to learn and understand

   Water supply in the town is dwindling. While gigantic water masses flow down the mountains and south into the Indian plains,  
   Kathmandu has problems. The "water garden" as it is called, has only two pipes which supply clean drinking water. The lines with  
   buckets and other containers are long

           
         the water garden; out of 8 pipes, only two have water                                    the container line reaches up the staircase

               
                              two shadus, holy men at the temple                                                and a resting "holy" cow

        
    around the temples, people make a living. The flowers for the faithful, the Mandlas for the tourists. Nepal is not rich. But it has  
    enormous Eco-tourism potentials.

       
                JAMBO resting for two days                                             friendly, polite and very poor. The common Nepalese
   
       
           The Trailokya Mohan temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu                                               Birdseye view

   Stealing of artifacts became a serious problem in Kathmandu. Priceless treasures hundreds of years old are disappearing from
   temples to end somewhere on a rich collectors table in America or Europe. The authorities have to fence the mini temples over night
   hoping no one will pinch during prayer in daytime.

         
    Protecting the treasures. The mirror is for the believer. Passing the temple he will mark the centre of the forehead with red. It is
    supposed the "inner eye" of imagination and visions which most of us have lost. The sign of Hinduism.

                                                   
   Look closely you notice the "Star of David" symbol of the Jews, in the centre besides of the two Swastika, of the arch enemy, the
   National Socialists  in Hitler's Germany (although his one rotates clockwise). Did both "pinch" these symbols from Hinduism?

    We are aware that we have not even scratched the surface of the Hindu religion and its expressions here in Kathmandu. It is simply 
    not possible in this short time and in a web page. We are sorry dear reader, but  "the show must go on", meaning we have to leave
    the town behind.

        
                                        Kathmandu at 8:00 am, already busy, shops open and  waiting for the buying tourist
                    
     Monday 24-3-08

   We left early. The clouds hung over Kathmandu since last night, it was raining. "Which is the best road down south Mr. Officer?" We
   asked a policeman and he directed us to "a short cut" which we eagerly accepted. "Short cut" means saving time and fuel, which up
   here cost B$ 1,55 a liter. Maybe we made a mistake somewhere on the road, a wrong turn on a junction, the fact of the day is, we
   ended on a small road climbing higher and higher. When ever we asked people of whom no one spoke English, for the direction to
   Hetauda a small town on route, their gestures  directed us on. 
           
          Another bicycle  "Lenin brigade" mislead and ignorant                               wherever we stopped onlookers came at once

   Up and up we went the narrow road. First there was tar overlay, but soon after, bare earth and sharp stone alternated. Gear one, gear
   two, gear one. Not much progress was to be made. We were worried with our tires too. It was careful driving. Next to the car was this
   step ravine. A mistake and we sing with the angels. No way to survive a 800 m  fall. According to the GPS, we are at 2920m, the
   valley below we estimated at 2000 m.
    

   The fine line in the right picture is our track, almost 3000 m up and we did not know if we are correct, although the general direction
   was southwards, so we drove on. Slowly we descended, watching the valley below. If water starts to flow into our direction,  then we
   were over the highest point. And yes, we were correct the road led downwards and we met few farmer houses. Now four hours in the
   mountains, we run short of diesel. But as always we have 80 liters spare, useful this time.

          
                       The first houses at 2100m                                                                Good to have 'refill" with us

   Just as the Kadzan Dusun of Mt Kinabalu, genetically selection made the farmers up here small but strong. If one is rich he has an
   animal to help. There is no machine to plow the field or to transport. The mountain folks, always women, walking along the slopes, hold
   their baskets  with a head strap. They have a hard life up here. Town ladies used to fine BATA shoes and  Giordano dresses, to
   polished nails and perfume from Chanel or Astor, which as you may or may not know, belong  to the  "chosen people". How about a
   "working holiday" in the Nepalese mountains? In knickers which fit a Sumo wrestler? On your feet the China slippers?
   Two weeks up here will change your view of life for ever. You can be rest assured.

            
                   All are out of one village of a few houses. And yet the features and complexions differ                                         

      
             Plowing the terrace with a cow; he is the rich one .                             Resting or waiting, we did not know why

   Storm and weather clouds gathered.  Ahead was this mountain slope which went down in an avalanche of mud, gravel and boulders.
   We became more worried, if it rains maybe the track will be blocked by soil sliding into the road. Heaven knows for how long? We
   accelerated, drove speedier, the tiers hammered over stones, the car rattled. Sharp bend after bends up the mountain, down the
   mountain. Harun's  thumb was on the horn lengthily, sounding a strong warning. But only farmers used the track.
 
           
              Nepalese mountain farmers have no easy life up here. They grow on terraces wheat, rice, and  tobacco.

  . 
   Houses are build from rock the material widely available, Roof are made from split stone. On hill terraces, stones were removed and 
   form now the boundary of the owners land.

         
               She confirmed we were on the correct way                              The red flowers were a pleasing contrast to the rocks 

   Gradually we descended into a valley and out along the river into lower lands. The stone road became gravel then a small band of tar in
   the middle, finally it was a full road leading us through the town and onto the highway east. We were on flat land again. Down here
   again crowded villages between rice fields. Many locals on bicycle, Indians by dress and complexion. Some so dark as if they would
   come from the southernmost area, or Sri Lanka. Here all is green and there is still forest.  Many must have moved to paradise Nepal.
   Wile in India every square inch field belongs to someone and has to be leased, here there are still  forests to be chopped down and
   free land for a buffalo to graze. Why not settle here? "How many children has a family in average" we asked the "in charge" of the
   guesthouse where we slept. The whole village were Indians. "Not many, just between 4- 6." Add  all newcomers and relatives then in
  15 years one can vote into a party and Southern Eastern Nepal could be North India. Once the Indian have settled they will over time
   demand citizenship. Nepalese you cannot turn  them back then.
   An upset Indian government may send a million soldiers which is still less than one thousands of  their hungry population.
   Nepal be forewarned! Your sons will one day in the not so distant future climb in the snowy mountains with the yaks, nibble on
   tobacco and wait for the handouts of the lowland Indians. If  they consent to sell to you. We regret to see the destruction of nature
   coming as in India itself. That is what makes our  heart heavy.

   Dear reader you may wonder where are the nice photos with the Himalaya mountain range and in front we, standing with our flag.
   Nothing of such. We attempted twice and drove up further to observation points. The weather was bad, lots of moisture in the air, we
   had no postcard panorama.
   By 7:00pm after 11 hours, we reached the KOSI TAPPU wildlife reserve, a mini park, where we stay for the night. It was a bamboo hut.
   The "In charge" when asked how much it cost, started with this words: "Further down the hotel is US$ 170.-..." which Harun cut short,
   warning him to call the Tourism Ministry should he want to cheat. We paid US$ 5.-.

     
              that was the five "dolarius americanski" guesthouse                                                  3 beds for 6 people    

     Tuesday 25-3-08

   Our quarter was surrounded by  a village, all Indians. On one house terrace, a teacher gave lessons to kids which do not attend
   school. Maybe because they are illegal's.

    
             The village kids during the veranda class                                                      Here they post with our flag.

    
             The teacher tried the fine CFK laptop, while papa searched seriously the sky for the TelBru satellite

   This is early morning village life. A few shots on the way out towards the border.

              
    banging their heads, same as stubborn  humans do.       Fake "Nepalese" building house walls with sh.., meaning cow dung

        
                                      and the real ones                                                                  India ahead again

   Around 3:30 pm we reached the Eastern side of Nepal  and were through the border within 1/2 hour, being the second time in India.
   The busses are as usual overloaded, people are plenty, that was known to us. What is new was this signboard next to a shanty
   wooden hut right on the Indian side. the clinic and diagnose center of one specialist Dr. Schaldar . It seems the male population here
   has a common problem, on which we do not like to elaborate further.

       
                    Cramped busses and breezy places                                  maybe we should sell here the extra wide Turkish trouser

      
                      paperwork on every border                                                           still in Nepal, but with Indian population
                                                                   
   "Welcome in INDIA" said a signboard. Here in West Bengal was no stink in the air as back in and around Delhi. Good for our nose.
   The night we spend close to the Bangladesh border in a "Government Hotel" where  the mighty cockroach climb over you as soon as
   you switch off the light. We chased one until the water of the toilet bowl "Now we got you!" said Harun triumphal and turned the handle
   to flush him down into the gully Liters of water rushed from the cistern to remove from the bowel whatever is there. The cockroach,
   managed to stay afloat in this whirling pool and crawled hasty to the side just to fly out! I tried to hit him with the shampoo bottle, but
   missed, He flew away into a niche behind the wash bucket. From there behind the toilet seat and was gone. An hour later Harun's
   tennis rack size slippers made an end with his life. It is appalling what is sold as room here.

   In Brunei this institution would have been closed down on hygienic reasons.

     Wednesday 26-3-08

   Honestly dear reader, we ask you:" Is this not an up to the moment web page? We write about events almost before they happen."...
   This was the very Wednesday.
   After a thin coffee breakfast we left the cozy home of cockroaches towards the Bangladesh  border. BUTAN. declined to issue a visa
   for single tourists.We had  3 days puffer time.
   Click Bangladesh  to follow us into this poor mans territory.