Malaysia

   Saturday 26-4-08

   The web page has to begin with a farewell in Bangkok. As in many countries His Excellency Pengiran Dato Paduka Hj Sharifuddin
   Yusof the Ambassador, and Datin had overwhelmed us, It goes beyond Malay custom, to  care so much for travelers. We were
   picked up last night at the airport on our arrival from Phnom Penh. This very morning, after we took JAMBO out of the Embassy
   compound we were invited in the house of His Excellency for a Brunei Malay breakfast and all officers were there too.

   
  the breakfast feast Datin and H.E Pg Dato Paduka Hj Shariffudin                    just look at the oversized basket full with goodies
  in the forefront

   Did I say breakfast? It was a Malay feast, mee goring ayam goreng, nasi lemak, Chuchur udang and bubur kachang, cakes, coffee
   and tea. And when the moment came to leave this fine people, a large basket showed up from no where, full with fruits like oranges.
   peaches and mango, topped with bakery. And under, sitting there like a gourmet surprise, was a bowl with fine Beef Rendang,
   The very one, Harun likes most.

  
                what a nice team representing here our beloved Brunei Darussalam                                   " Saluto"

   The Doa Selamat, (for the non Muslim readers, a farewell prayer for safe journey) was read, and then it was time to leave.

            
                A last picture before our King and Queen           the last waving, the fare well. It is hard to leave such fine people behind

   Compass in hand we directed JAMBO out of Bangkok. South-south west, We could not miss. Over time, the high risers gave way to
   green rice fields, The double lane highway was fast to drive on, and around 2:00 pm we curved into a village which had access to
   the sea. It  was lunch time. Slowly smoldered the Beef Rendang on our small gas stove. The smell was mouthwatering. Down on the
   shore played some doggies in the sand. In no time they came closer. but a few stones chased them away. A dark skinned fellow
   maybe a Bangla or Indian stopped his bicycle next to us, just to greet. We think it was the Rendang, what made him to stop. While
   talking he peered towards our cooking pot and his nose tip moved into the direction, sniffing. Sitting down at a shade, he was patiently
   waiting.
   For the next 20 minutes Harun did not speak a word. The warm Rendang before us, we enjoyed this fine cooking. His  belly grew
   bigger and bigger. First loosen the belt one hole, then another one. Sorry Mister India or whoever you are, this time we have to be
   stingy.
   There was nothing left to give him from the Rendang. A packet of crackers with us since India, changed owner, he was happy seeing
   the Indian writing, which confirmed he was one of millions hungry fellows from that overpopulated continent trying his luck in Thailand.
   Thirty minutes later we drove on, by evening we had reached Chumphon town and checked into a two star hotel. The price was to our
   liking. US 12.- although without breakfast. Here we could load the Cambodia page.

     Sunday 27-4-08

   Early up, by 6:30 we were on route already. Southbound towards the Malaysian border, reaching it in the early afternoon. The
   formalities were a matter of 40 minutes of which the Malaysian custom boss snipped fifteen away. Not to quarrel and inspect. Harun
   had to tell him about the journey through Africa. About the desert crossing and the wild people of Namibia and Ethiopia. He was exited.
   You must go to our TV he said. A big achievement what you two did.

    
                                    Finally on the Malaysia Thai border crossing, the last country before home

   We all know Malaysia, this great country and most of us love it. It is well known as tourist destination par excellence. We are aware
   of mainstream happenings, there is no need to repeat here what one can read in books and news papers. To us Bruneians, Malaysians
   are brothers. In fact there was a time when we were one. But let us hop a few centuries back and start the history when Islam came to
   the region.
   Already in the 14th century, the first evidence of Islam appears in Terengganu. A stone scripture with Jawi writings either from 1326 or
   1386,accidentally found, confirms this. In the 15th century the Sultan of Melaka at his height, controlled what is today Malaysia south
   Thailand and east Sumatra. In 1611 the Portuguese gained control of Melaka. Then in 1786 the Brits came leased the Penang island
   from the Sultan of Keddah (one foot in the door) and together with the Dutch cut the cake into slices meaning dividing the Malay
   archipelago between them.
   In 1826, they established the crown colony, uniting their possessions, Singapore Malacca and Penang. Where there was money to be
   made they used gun boat diplomacy like in the tin producing states. To quell civil unrest and in 1874 expanded their influence with a
   treaty. By the turn of the century de facto 4 states were under British control. When the defeated Japanese left the region in the
   1940ties, the Brits remained, quickly trying to repair the war destruction and get the economy going again. Unemployment, scare and
   expensive food created labor unrest and strikes. But tin and rubber was needed back in Queens own England and in 1948 they brought
   into law emergency measures. Police was empowered to arrest and lock away without a court hearing, the resistance went
   underground.
   The Communist MNLA started a guerilla war, targeting Tin mines and rubber plantations mainly supported by ½ mio ethnic Chinese
   living here. The war against the communists guerillas went on until 1957. The Australian helped, the Gurka battalions and even the
   black man, called  Askari, the "Kings African Rifles". They fought for the Brits in the Malaysia jungle. The black man had to shoot in
   Malaysia to earn a salary for his family in Hinter-Somalia or Bushman's Kenya. We must save the Englishman's lives! Let the
   African's fight.
   Even in today's world the Askari, in this case Ugandan private security guards protect American installations in- where do you think?
   Yes, Iraq. They are supposed to receive US 1000.- a month and if a Muslim resistant fighter, pardon a "terrorist", bullet is shot at him,
   and the black man's  flame of live may flicker or perhaps extinguish, he is to receive US$ 80.000.-., paid by -hopefully soon- Iraqi
   resources. The recruiting is done by  "Askari Recruiting Service" hired by "Beowulf International", they subcontract to "EDO
   Technologies", which works for "US Department of Defense." What a cover up. Securing Baghdad's in "CAMP VICTORY" and
   sometimes complaining, their salary was not paid always. (see Wikkipedia ).
   Stamp your military booth onto a  rich  country, destroy factories, homes, bridges and water plants, hospitals and roads, electric 
   power plants. Kill a million or more, award your own contractors the overpriced Nation rebuilding with American material, always good
   for the American economy. Drive out Iraqi engineers and doctors, all for the control of oil and resources. This is "spreading of
   democracy"
   Who  believes this lies? Are we still eating American junk food and drink Coca Cola?
   It seems there is no one in the US government strong enough to halt such atrocities. No one. Nancy Pelosi was the hope of many
   outsiders, until it became public that this "Catholic" is actually of Jewish background out of Argentina, and as her Jewish husband, a
   strong supporter of Israel.
   Ha ya.... How long will the Almighty look before he acts? How long mankind?

   But back. The Malayan emergency lasted until 1960 although Malaya got independence on 31-8-57. Malaysia federation was formed
   including Singapore but in August 1965, Singapore seceded from Malaysia. These were rough years back then. In 1969 riots broke
   out after election results, which  favored the Chinese and a victory parade headed through Kampong Baru, the Malay quarters. The
   government suspended parliament until 1971. Then, we hear the first time the name Dr. Mahathir bin Mohammed. Expelled from the
   UMNO because of his nationalistic views, he wrote the book "The Malay Dilemma" in which he promotes the idea of affirmative action,
   that is promoting access to education and employment of past and present discrimination and encourage public institutions, such as
   hospitals and universities to be a better representation of the population. In short help the Bumiputra and minorities to get better
   access in all fields. The book was banned.
   He rejoined later the UMNO again and became the longest serving Prime Minister, engineering the rapid modernization of Malaysia,
   as the most respected and influential leader of Asia. Malaysia boom and success is his making. In 1983 and 1991 he took on the
   Monarchies removing royal veto and immunity. Between 1988 and 1997 the economy grew over 10%, the living standards grew twenty
   fold with poverty almost eradicated. He was outspoken critic of the US and was highly critical of G. Bush and a leading critic of Israel.
   And on 16 Oct. 2003 before the OIC he said: We Muslims are actually very strong. 1.3 billion cannot be wiped out. The Europeans
   killed 6 million Jews. But today they rule the world by proxy. They get others to fight and die for them ..." How true.

   Look at PETRONAS. He made sure, that not all oil related activities are done by Foreign names. There are PETRONAS petrol stations
   all over the land. PETRONAS has exploration rights in Syria and in Cambodia, that what we saw on our journey. And there must be
   many countries more where they operate. Invest as a nation and take your share in future oil and gas riches, for the benefit of the
   Malaysia and  it's  people. An excellent strategy. He was a visionary, for me the greatest leader of the late 20th century. When he
   retired on 31 October 2003 he received the highest civil award the grateful Nation had to offer. The "TUN" ship.

     Monday 28-4-08

   We had arrived in Penang Island yesterday for the overnight stay. It is the birthplace of P. Ramlee the famous filmmaker, actor, singer,
   musician, Malaysia's golden son. We had to come to his little home to show our respect.

                             
    He was as handsome as talented, acting or directing 66 movies and writing 300 songs. Must have been difficult sometimes to get
    away from the female fans...

                         
                                   P. Ramlee Museum                                                  and his birth house in the background  

                
                 Penang is connected to mainland with a 8.4 km bridge. The crossing cost is RM 7.- to go and come.
                (Do not compare it with our Kuala Belait, 200 meter long mini bridge, otherwise you may say ours is overpriced)          
                                                                   
                
                   view from our hotel, JAMBO below                       Kapitan Keling Mosque cater for the Indian community Muslims

   The Kapitan Keling Mosque was build in 1801 when the East Indian Company granted 18 acres of land to the Kaptain. Wait a minute!
   The colonial traders and masters grant land which does not belong to them? It had large burial grounds and an urban villages but when
   he died the land was reduced and today trucks and motorists drive over what was once Muslim burial ground. Only 8 acres remain. 
   We left early back to the mainland and headed south towards Kuala Lumpur. By afternoon we could see the famous twin towers

     Tuesday 29-4-08

   In the morning we drove around to find a spot with JAMBO and the twin towers. It was not easy as everywhere is parking, even
   stopping prohibited, yet we managed the photo for the web.

   The journey for JAMBO  to Sarawak was not yet finalized. For one, we searched for the best rate and two, the best timing. Speculating
   that due to shorter distance the price might be lower, we contacted Singapore and Johor Baru and just to check it out, but still drove
   to Port Klang to search for a trustworthy Freight Forwarder. Yes there is a Roll on roll off ship on 2-5-08 to Kuching. That would fit our
   timing. Price negotiations followed, we settled for RM 1750.- as we got a discount of RM 100.- from the boss. Why? "Because of your
   extraordinary expedition." he said. We wanted to see custom with our carnet and therefore remain in Klang for the night.

     Wednesday 30-4-8

   By 8:30 we drove to the port. The forwarder had contacted customs the day before already." No problem" they said. We waited until
   all custom procedures were completed, then drove JAMBO into the port. Padlocks secured our inbuilt aluminum boxes and the roof
   rack.
   We gave them only the Ignition and one door key. With a "Bye Bye"  to JAMBO our trusted companion, we returned  to KL in the
   afternoon and booked our flight to Kuching for the 3-5-08.
                          
                                     JAMBO in the Klang Port                                                  the national landmark

   The  twin towers shone in the afternoon sun in stainless steel and glass, a confirmation of mans genius. We looked at them until a
   cloud shaded the sun.
   The evening provided a lit up scenery of Kuala Lumpur, we had to close curtains for the sleep, but cars and hocking made an uneasy
   sleep. This town is awake until early morning hours.

     Thursday 1-5-08

   From the breakfast room of the hotel we could see the twin towers behind the Kampong Baru, a Malay enclave. It was for us the
   symbol of modernization. The small houses are still  traditions and heritage. Surely one day soon they and gardens will be replaced
   by buildings, none lower than 20 floors.

           
                                        evening in KL                                                                        Kampong Baru the Malay enclave

   We were on our way to Melaka. The bus was to leave at platform 13 at 9:30 am. The conductor, a China man came at 9:45 and all
   passengers had to follow him behind some houses, where a bus was waiting. It was a private enterprise, not part of the bus system.
   The two hours journey was soon over and at the highway in Melaka he send everyone off again. We decided to come here to visit the
   very  place where in the fifteens century, the Portuguese landed.

   Melaka was founded by a Sumatran prince, so it is said. Under Sultan Manshur Shah who ruled for 21 years until 1477, Malaka's fame
   and wealth was growing, Chinese, Arab, Indian sea merchants set foot on the soil always out for riches. Soon after, the Portuguese
   show up, occupied the land in the name of the King! And ruled it for 130 years. But stronger powers followed, in this case the Dutch.
  

                      
     The inscription says: The only remaining part of the ancient fortress of Malaka build by D'Alfonso D' Alboqieque and by him named.
                                                                     Famosa 1511 AD

               
               Above the entrance. the woman holds a feather pen and he a sword in the middle a sailing ship

                 
   The old Chinatown is colorful as it is lively, shop next to shop offering, what the tourists likely buy's. Arcades from old Dutch times
   pained in red as in those days back, still shade the pedestrian from the weather. On the open square the rischka station. Man pedaled
   tricycle, decorated with plastic flowers wait for the tourists. Here begins usually a 20 minutes RM 20.- sightseeing tour.

                
                    he struggles the light slope up for good Ringgit            "I only transport passengers below 40 kg as my tiers get flat"

        
   Here one finds the snake charmer, joggling a python in front of the ever curious onlookers from near and afar like the Puteh guys.
   Such a disgusting kiss has the "Woman in Red" not seen before. And since the snake man had a bigger python too, Harun took it
   around the neck like a shawl. Pretending to stumble, he run into the crowd. Some well dressed Singapore girls in newest fashion next
   by were fleeing, loosing the high heels kasut. Their screaming was heard until Orchards road. Not so the cute Chinese girl. Sitting
   down next to her, she did not bother, enjoying snake, Harun and the picture. See the guy behind the tree? Now only he smiles being
   in safe distance. Before he was among the runaways.

      
   Me on the other hand got a creature on my head, a big lizard as you can see, holding herself onto my cap. I was worried, this small
   beast may poop on me, by purpose or by mistake, whatever. But no one took it off. How to get a lizard off the cap if you do not want
   to touch her? A "schusch" or "go away" will not do. "Please take it off or I through the cap and lizard." I warned. That made the owner
   worried and he freed me.

     Friday 2-5-08

   We called our freight forwarder in Port Klang. Our JAMBO is loaded today to Kuching. Missing this fine machine already we hope,
   they take proper care when driving onto the ferry. We strolled into Malaka, shooting some pictures, visiting interesting places,
   counting our dwindling cash reserves, the day was gone in no time. Malaka has some interesting places, some we like to share with
   you.
               
        Woman and woman! Here the outfit is a disgrace.    And here, a pleasure to look at this colorful and tasty dressed Nonya

   Not far from center, among the small houses stands the Kampong Kling mosque, build in 1748. In it's architecture we found Sumatran
   Hindu influences. Inside she is a true mix. Corinthian columns, symmetrical arches in the main prayer hall, Victorian chandeliers and
   Moorish cast iron lamp post. Despite all that, she is the main mosque for the Malay community.

      
                    a 3 tier roof like Buddhist pagodas                                         and Corinthian columns, as in Greek temples

   We took a ride to the mausoleum of Makam Hang Tua a few miles out of the city. Hang Tuah became a famous warrior for the Malaka
   sultanate. He was the greatest of a Laksamana, that is admirals, during the reign of Mansor Shah and a ferocious fighter. He is held in
   highest regard even today in the Malay culture.
   And for those who believe, his soul appears sometime in the mausoleum, at night in full moon sharp at 12:00 midnight. As a white
   crocodile. It is said, people who dared to stay there, were paralyzed when they saw something moving along the plastered ground,
   resembling a big white croko. But this apparition vanished within seconds into nothing.

                   
                                                                             Makam Hang Tuah (Mausoleum) 

   The legend goes that five friends were fierce warriors an equivalents of the three musketeers and got the attention of sultan
   Mansor Shah in the 15th century. He gave them positions on his court. But then, intrigue played a role and pride and friendship and
   loyalty. Hang Tuah rose in rank with unfaltering loyalty to the sultan. He became his aid and accompanied him at visits in foreign lands.
   On such a visit he was challenged by a famous warrior to a duel which he won. The ruler bestowed on him a Kris which had magic
   powers to make him invincible. It became the source of his supernatural powers. Then, all took a dramatic turn. His popularity with the
   sultan led to rumors that he had an affair with a concubine.
   When the angered sultan ordered a hasty executed of Hang Tuah without giving him chance to explain, he was spirited away into a
   secret hideout by the executioner. Believing his friend was dead on order of the sultan, Hang Jebat went into the palace for a killings
   spree to revenge the death of Hang Tuah and rebelled against the sultan. No one could stop him. Then the sultan was informed by the
   executioner that the only man able to stop him was Hang Tuah which actually was still alive. Hang Tuah was recalled and the sultan
   gave him full amnesty. After 3 days of fighting he was able to kill Hang Jebat his friend. Hang Tuah continued to serve the sultan. At
   one time he had to court a princess on behalf of the sultan, but she agree only to marry him if some wishes are fulfilled. Hang Tuah
   knew he could never make a golden bridge from Malaka to the top of Gunung Ledang or bring even trays of livers. He was so
   overwhelmed failing the sultan, that he through his Kris into the river vowing to return to Melaka only, if it surfaced again. Which it
   never did. It was also said, he then vanished into thin air. The story moved the Malay community for centuries up to today.

                      
                                                                                      Hang Jebat Mausoleum

     
      the Melaka river outlet and a Portuguese ship replica                               the independence memorial house

   The Melaka straight is one of the busies ship routes in the East. China is way up north and their economy is booming since years.
   That needs raw material and oil. For quiet some time, pirates out of Indon waters captured ships and got away with whole loads. How
   they did this is a miracle, or "cooked" insurance frauds.

        
            the passenger ferry just arrived from Indonesia                              Container ships out there in once feared Melaka waters

     Saturday 3-5-08

   The driver directed the bus towards Kuala Lumpur. This afternoon we have a flight to Kuching. JAMBO is sailing by now.
   Clearing we do from Monday the 5th on, and then our last miles, already on Borneo soil, are ahead of us. We are longing to come
   home now. Home, to my beloved Brunei Darussalam, which I missed so much. The flight, in a new Air Asia aircraft was smooth and
   by 6:00 pm we checked into a hotel to wait out the arrival of JAMBO, which should by now sail somewhere in the Melaka waters.
 
     Sunday 4-5-08

   Sitting in the breakfast room of our  hotel I looked at the tables around, occupied mostly by middle level Chinese business men, (we
   are in budget constrain and therefore in a cheap hotel) grouped around the breakfast tables, some already hectic on the hand phone,
   trying to direct profit into their direction. On the other side a few Malay among themselves a woman approaching, greeting politely from
   the heart as custom dictated. I wondered, Sarawak has over a half million Chinese, how it came these active, hard working and
   industrious  people could set their foot into this country, pushing aside the local population, when it comes to commercial activities.
   I wonder, as they are actually two separate people. The Chinese, mostly Hakka, speak their dialect, never intermarry with a native no
   matter how pretty she is, unless maybe for money, on the other hand the locals, by nature polite Malay's and Dayaks, indigenous
   people, remain among themselves. Off course there are exceptions, I know of one mixed guy in Brunei. He never worked and is
   millionaire, just by commissions. He has the look of a Malay and the smartness of a Chinese businessman. His name is - I know
   some  would like to know- but I cannot tell.
   The Hakka came in large numbers from Guangdong to settle. Already about 90.000 worked in the gold mining industry in the 18th
   century in Kalimantan when it was under the jurisdiction of the sultan of Brunei. Not only they multiplied which is a natural thing by
   itself, but kept coming too. Over the time of 200 years the trickle in from all directions. From the Guangdong province, Mei Xiang, large
   number were brought from Singapore to "open up the territory" .

      
                                  Sarawak river in Kuching                                                       Kuching monuments in Malay -cat in English.

   The word Kuching comes likely from the Chinese word "kochin", meaning harbor, or from the "cat's eye" fruit, called Mata Kuching.
   But nothing is sure and cats monuments are all over the town.

      
                              carved "Kuching's"               The Astana on the riverfront build in 1870 as bridal gift. Here resides now the governor

   In 1899 a group of hundred Christian Hakka arrived, singing "Hosanna, praise the lord" and settled, planting veggies. Just outside of
   Kuching.

   They came in lot's to the promised land. In the beginning of this century over 600 people from Guangdong arrived, calling their place
   "New Guangdong", a name which did not survive. And no one asked the Bumi what they say.
    In 1820 the eager Dutch show up, and agitated the local population in the ever successful way:' Divide them and rule".
    A recipe still used today.
   They stirred up trouble, Chinese against Chinese, Kongsi against Kongsi, natives against Chinese. To avoid these, many Hakka
   relocated to Bau ( a village about 40 km S/W of Kuching), in the second division of Sarawak, where gold was produced in cyanidation
   method by the Borneo company. Formed in Britain those days back, merged later with Inchcape and is still active today in various
   fields. In 30 years almost 1 mio. ounces was crushed or washed out of gravel.

                 
                    The square tower a fortress from 1879                                  and the Kuching mosque build in 1968

   In the beginning of the 19th century, this area was still a typical Malay principality and under the control of the Sultan of Brunei. It was
   peaceful, but all of it changed when the Sultan appointed an unpopular Governor and the population revolted. In 1839 James Brooke
   landed here, he made friend to a nephew of the Brunei Sultan, Raja Muda Hashim, which was trying to quell the rebellion against the
   appointed governor. With Brooks help he succeeded and gratefully the Sultan of Brunei rewarded him with the control of Sarawak in
   1841. That is what the Kuching brochures tell. It was a heavy loss.
   The second "White Raja" Charles Brooke a relative, brought prosperity to Sarawak, by expanding trade. He encouraged the
   intermarriage of Europeans to local girls, a wise thing to do. Then followed the third, his eldest son Charles Vyner Brooke, he was in
   charge until 1946.
   It is said he brought the first strings of democracy to Sarawak. And it is said again, he stem the business interest and exploitation of
   the locals by European interests as seen in other areas of the British empire.
   When the Jap's surrendered, Sarawak became Australian, but then they thought it would be better as a British colony. No one asked
   the population. This unpopular move resulted in the assassination of the British Governor. Gracefully the Colonial powers prepared
   Sarawak and Sabah for independence. What is: "Prepared"?  Is it not, that first, people have to be placed in power and positions,
   which favor a close connection to the British masters? Bring the house in order for the benefits of the Brits? Assuring business and
   wealth flow where it belongs, to the "City" of London the financial powerhouse of Europe. It took a long time. Only in 1963, Sabah
   and Sarawak joint the newly formed Malaysia.
   It was Sunday and the local Malay population gathered in the afternoon for a Kampong concert in a pavilion on the waterfront. Malay
   folks and it must be said some tourists too, stepped the easy dance in rhythm. Five ladies on drums and a fiddler. First we looked on,
   but then we joined in, much to the delight of the onlookers. Changing microphones, they sung of love and good harvest. Off course
   they were not trained singers. (Just as kids in our Brunei TV sometime screaming out of tune). But it did not matter. It was the
   atmosphere which all enjoyed. The fiddler played sweet notes, although with a sour face. The lead singer, not a beauty herself sung of
   the bride longing for heir groom from the next kampong and his strong arms and of the many babies she will give him.

                   
           I was behind the camera. Where there is joy, Harun my hubby is never far away.            He loves to dance

   We did not seen a Chinaman and that is what I mean. These people do not integrate. Never, no where! There is always a Chinatown
   be it Vancouver, Kuala Lumpur or New York. They settle only together, each helps the other. This is their strength - and weakness as
   bad guys hide away within, gangs dealing in drugs and extortion, among other illegal activities.

                   
                                   Floating supermarket of Chin Sun                                                      Rowed water taxi

   The Chin Soon ship is worth a few words, especially for our European readers. When logging begun in Sarawak, first the trees along
   the outskirt of towns had to go. (Naturally 90% of all logging companies were, you guess right, Chinese operated.)  In our extensive
   travels, to the interior of Borneo as Eco tour operators, we saw logging camps which did not bother to put their name in English or
   Malay on the board. Just China letters-in red, red for fortune.
   But these trees were soon gone, and the market was hungry for more, therefore they had to move further in. Constructing logging
   roads only, where such an expense is unavoidable, but in general, transporting the logs out via the river system. Logging camps are
   made there too. People have to drink, wash and bath. Make sense is it not? And they need to live. Here the Chin soon floating
   supermarket comes in, one of hundreds. They stuff the boat with all what is needed by the young guys in the rainforest. Foremost
   beer and cigarettes.
   "Tuk, tuk" the small diesel engine pushed the boat up into the interior, stopping in logging camps for the hard earned cash. Foremost
   on payday but also on others, as the china man sell on credit too.
   The loggers, mostly locals, young men live in one room barracks sometime with children and wife. Whenever Chin Soon docked,
   people lined up for purchases. His name and signature in the credit book already, it has to be paid first. "My wife said we need milk
   powder for the baby."  "Never mind, you owe me the money for one carton beer, that is RM 60.- . And two cartons of cigarettes too,
   pay first."

                               
                                                                                 Modern Kuching

   The capital of Sarawak has today a population of 450.000, whereby the whole of Sarawak is inhabited by 2.4 mio, out of which the
   Ibans are with 690.000 the largest group, followed by Chinese and then the Malay's. Mineral and hydrocarbons, National parks and
   tourism contribute to the wealth of the country. Not bad to live here.

     Monday 5-5-08

   "I assure you, solo through Africa and until here is an extraordinary task. Congratulate to your success."
    The man in the restaurant table was serious. He said more to himself. "Last year our army men 54 of them, drove as a group from
    Cape Town in 13 vehicles to Kuala Lumpur". "We know about it". They were honored. But you go all the way via Europe alone?"
   "Yes all the way! Just look at our web page." He was leaning back and thinking. "What vehicle you use? "Toyota land cruiser".
    'Of course, they sponsor you as they benefit tremendously,"  "So far not one cent, but maybe still to come after we return
    successfully to Brunei". "Even a triumph cost money, who paid then?"  "Some sponsorship yes we got, but to a large extend we pay
    ourselves." His face showed disbelieve.
    Waiting for JAMBO. We went to the freight forwarder in Kuching who is to clear the cargo.
    "Is it you with the car coming from South Africa?" asked the boss, Mr.David. He was exited. "What a great adventure you undertook".
    "The ship is to come today, I will try to get your vehicle out as soon as possible."
     Lets hope so, the waiting is boring and our hotel stay costly.
 
     Tuesday 6-5-08

   Scrolling through our web site, reading the lines often critical with the present world, the approach of governments to eradicate 
   suffering, the injustice and brutality for money and power by determined men without consciousness, I thought: "The end justifies the
   means" is a saying you have heard. Well that is Satan's logic. The means is first to look at, not the end. Means has to have priority.
   How do I achieve my ends?. Honest? Caring? Or with lies, bombs and more lies?
 
   When I went to KL for visas last year I stumble over a book in the Low cost airport bookshop. Written by a Malaysian, Matthias Chang.
   "FUTURE FAST FORWARD". from THINKER'S LIBRARY SDN. BHD. E-mail thinkers@tm.net.my or the author for more
   information's; matthias@skzcchambers.com.
   Starting to read it, in the airport, through the flight, home in bed and finished it after 12 hours around 3:00 am morning. My belly was  
   cramp. Although I read many books about the powers behind all world misery, created by the Zionist Anglo American actions for world  
   domination. The greed of some bankers, the war industry, none reflected more clearly what is happening.
   The book is an eye opener for all, including you, who may think: "Come on, that is not so bad".
    Dear intelligent and concerned reader it is much worst then you believe at this moment. Why?
   You realize that we are all under manipulated information. Has not Iraq disappeared out of the news? And Afghanistan?
   Killing and suffering goes on!
   And Palestine? Where over a million live in refugee camps without proper access to anything what life makes worth to live? Above
   them the Israelis, lying, shooting and killing in "self-defense" Driving them into such a despair that girls blow themselves up, give their
   young life for a nation of Palestine. Muslim! Have you prayed for their souls? Shouldered some alms for the families? Have you
   protested about this injustice? Complained to the Americans and Zionists. Have you forgotten there are 10.000 Palestinian in prison?
   And if there is one Jewish soldier caught the world press cries out about. See the difference?

   There is still shooting and killing in Iraq by the Brits and US. The US build the biggest Embassy ever in the green zone in Bagdad,.
   Outside the owners of the land, the Iraqis search for food, for water, for education. for means to feed the family. This is Satan in action!
   The friends of Israel in the US and financial powers in Wall Street and now in Brussels (The dark forces never sleep) want to shape the
   world in their liking. And if you and your children are in their way, so what? Not even sorry for you...you become "collateral damage".

   Is Agent Orange (Dioxin) still in your mind? Creating genetically deformation over generations? The onslaught on the environment
   destroying forests to expose a trail ?
   The cluster bombs in Laos and Cambodia which we have seen with our own eyes. Or the ones dropped by the Jews over south
   Lebanon after the war was declared over? AFTER the war they drop bombs to kill for years to come.
   Millions bomblets await a farmer or a playing kid ? The actual news, evil actions and suffering are not told, the most in small letters on
   the sideline, because they want it that way.
   CNN and BBC often misinform, downplay what is done in injustice but exaggerate anything out of Muslim quarters. Media in the US
   and Europe belongs to a large extend to Jews. Why do you think they pursue this goal? Because they like to report the honest truth?
   Or because they manipulate you in their interest, your thinking and your from GOD give ability to differentiate between good and evil.
 
   Matthias Chang this restless, brilliant mind with a heart and consciousness, I wish all men would have, wrote another new book.
   I finished reading it here in Kuching. BRAINWASHED FOR WAR. PROGRAMMED TO KILL, also available from the same library.
   His books should be in every higher institution, for the youth to see what is actually brewing beyond their horizon as long as they still  
   can think independently. In the not to distant future the brain will be manipulated by electromagnetic waves e.g. via the mobile phone.
   (Please do not laugh, that is serious US army stuff and future weaponry in the making, one of Satan's tools!) Did you hear about  
   microwaves so strong they cook your brain from afar? Nothing you can do. It is time mankind to wake up.

   What closes in on us, is unchangeable, once it is too late. I quote  for you the not believing reader the "US Army Doctrine of Joint    (future) Psychological Operations" out of Matthias Chang book BRAINWASHED FOR WAR PROGRAMMED TO KILL.
   under general considerations for Psychological Operations:

   (In the US Army) are operations planned to convey, selected information and indicators to foreign audiences,( in short,
   lie to us as pleases and as it is done already in Iraq and elsewhere), to influence their emotions. (perhaps you are happy in
   future to see children dying or laugh like an idiot not knowing why) Influence their motives. (if they do not want you to pray,
   you will not go anymore to your mosque or church. You, as human is changed) influence your objective reasoning,
   (manipulate you that you cannot think with consciences, you do notcomplain about injustice and onslaughts like now and perhaps
   - as a sample I will argue with others under their control, that all GOD fearing men like Imams must be imprisoned), and
   ultimately influence the behavior of foreign governments, organizations, groups and individuals.

   Everyone is exposed to these sons of Satan. These men should be send to jail, out of their laboratories we make orphan homes!
   Please reflect the meaning of all this and discuss it with your loved ones.
   The sages of lore prophesized a time will come, when there will be turmoil on our planet. It will be ruled by the beast his name is    666.
   That is Money.
   At the same time, it is said, spirituality will have no more meaning in man. How? It is easy. Your individually is manipulated,  
   electronically your brainwaves altered that you may not have the desire to meditate or pray, or to be good in your actions and deeds.
   Then you should be worried about your soul. But you cannot, because your brain has been manipulated you do not bother anymore.
   Now you have to glorify a human, a GOD like figure.
   An impossible thought? Not at all. Look at communism. Millions were told that GOD is dead. Thousands lined up every day on the red
   square in Moscow to pay tribute to one man, it is said he is a half Jew, who killed millions in his actions.
   This "GOD" was Lenin.. You believe now?
   See how easy it is to form an opinion, misinform with lying newspapers and propaganda?
   Mankind is not drifting through time and space. Mankind is on the way to hell!  Directed by unscrupulous brains to their liking.

   All this and much more rotates in my mind with the question: How to stop them? I believe the answer is education and honest
   information.

   The truth must be in the papers, the evil exposed until it is over. Their goods boycotted, to force the leaders to honest actions.
   Two years  back in a Brunei supermarket I found dates, next by the delivery carton "Product of Israel". We knew nothing is to be  
    imported from there.
   So, complaining, the management removed the dates, just a few days later they appeared again in the shelf. This time, same
   name but a sticker, "product of USA" . Money is GOD. Honesty means nothing. That is what I mean. Living and acting for profit that is  
   666 in the final days. Besides this manager think all customers are retarded, which do not know what is going on.

   We, the Muslim have been bestowed by Allah with fortune in form of Hydrocarbon, gas and oil. Be it in the Middle east or elsewhere. 
   What is done with it? Is this wealth always wisely spend, as money is responsibility? Off course not, if one believes the media.
   Sometime the wastage of rulers or relatives are the laughing stock of the western world news. They make fun of them. Rightly or
   wrongly I dare not to judge. But what we should and must do, is  direct money into useful means, help the needy, and foremost, create
   a news channel for the Muslim world. So much money is wasted why not invest in such a venture -even if it makes a loss- air over the
   world all affairs which concern mankind. Honest and true. Build bridges among man and cultures.

   Open  heart and eyes of the  western world as they are misinformed (on purpose) about Islam.
   Become a counterpunch to lies and deception. Expose what evil is in the making!
   Create an international paper just as the "Herald Tribune", hooooonest reporting!
   (Most articles there are written by American Jews with a pen favoring Israel). In this way oppose Satan and his followers.
   That, I think would please ALLAH.
   The German Pope Benedict XIV seeks a dialog between Christianity and Islam, knowing that manipulation tries to stir up trouble
   between both religion.
   We must always ask, who benefits out of such a conflict, and expose the forces and fight them. We all believe in the same GOD.
   Ways to him are different, but we are HIS children. That is how we must act.

   You still think SATAN does not exist?
   Last evening I looked at a video clip in the internet. Exorcism. One old way to drive Satan out of a human by rituals and prayer.
   I felt like throwing up afterwards. The address I cannot tell, as youth may look at our web. But yes, he is all over us, it is time
   to fight him and his followers.. ( I welcome your thoughts the topic.)

   This afternoon we get JAMBO from the Port. Our journey continues.

                                    
                                                                       JAMBO had arrived in Kuching

   By 3:00 pm JAMBO was through customs. We had all valuables locked away. So, a desperate guy tried to steal the radio, took some
   foreign coins, and ransacked the interior, but he found nothing. Our secret compartment although almost empty was never discovered.
   Complaining to the drivers boss, here in Kuching he insisted. This is action of the fellows in P. Klang. If we call them they say it
   happen here in Kuching. Whatever, it is a disgrace for us Malay as both sides are operated by people of my race.
   Happy to be with JAMBO again, and I tell you dear reader, he runs like clockwork, we drove out of Kuching and reached Sri Aman by
   night, to check into a hotel. The car we parked in the Police compound. There he rest, guarded by the law enforcement.
   "No stealing here" we were assured.

               
                                                                  watched over by police for the night

   Wednesday 7-5-08

   Breakfast toaster presentation in our hotel. The salesman:  " And here you see the new invention toaster, which offer the management
   cost savings right from the start of the day." How much will it safe?" the restaurant manager asked." Per four slice load 0.3 cents.
   That is with 400 slices already, - he used his calculator- full thirty cents." Equal to 200 people, each having two slices" he continued
   triumphal.
   "Yes ladies and gentlemen the energy efficient machine is a true wonder of engineering." please see yourself." and he inserted the
   white square chewing gum bread, a left over from British colonial exploitation. We all looked and waited.
   The time was almost the same as in others, then the toast jumped out. "Here" see how golden brown the toast now is. Harun reached
   for one to taste it.  "Toastmaster!" he called him." Your machine toast only on one side. This is a toast cheat!" "Respectfully, no sir!
   by toasting only one side we save half of the electricity. "How to present it then to the guest?" You must put the toasted side up,
   never the white one.
   "Honestly Mr. Toastmaster where is this engineering cost saving wonder made?"  "In our glorious China".  "Thought so" Harun
    grumbled, "These fellows are  masters when it come to saving." We turned our bread around and toasted also on the other side,
    meaning double time and double electric bill. Whether the hotel purchased the "saving wonder" afterwards we do not know as we
    packed out on or final miles home.

                        
                               ...and here ladies and gentlemen is the toast wonder of the 21st century the saver of your money....

   The road to Surai led through nice countryside and at the Taman Reakerasi we saw a water tower for others to copy this beauty.

   By lunch time we had arrived, looked a bit around took a little rest and soon later  were on the way to Sibu. Along the main road we
   came to the remains of a longhouse burned down two days ago. Some of the wood was still smoldering.

        
                              The unfortunate village                                                              what a fire that must have been

   Asking for the Ketua, the village head, he soon showed up and gave what we could spare. Much of the way we had about 40 writing
   books, for school kids, pencils and pens, mee and other foodstuff, this was the place to surrender all.
           
   We sincerely hope the government help them, or the army boys. They are poor anyhow and have lost the little they own.
   One man perished in the blaze.

   Permit us to talk about our vehicle since Sarawak is known to you all. We understand not everyone is interested, but we hope some
   future adventurer might benefit from what we have converted and what has been proven to be a good concept in our JAMBO.

   The roof rack is custom made of strong iron pipes, cladded with aluminum plates and plywood. all 4 sides have chambers for tools
   spares and jerry cans, all is locked by padlocks

.  . 
 
   Left and right there are three jerry cans each, all in all 120 liters diesel, lasting about 800 km. With the  car tank full, we make
   1200 km at ease. Desert travel could cut the distance into half, that is 600 km. Always plan surplus fuel, about 25% of the distance.  
   For our routing, we had enough. And fill up wherever you can. if diesel is scares.
   At the rear, 40 liter water in two tanks, for shower and spare. In the desert we had additional cartons of mineral water. You might need
   the water from above for a radiator leak, which could happen just where you do not need it. In the center of the roof rack, two person
   can put up a sleeping mat's for a snore under the stars.
   Access is via a ladder which only comes down when needed, otherwise she is stored as in the picture. Do not buy the fancy
   aluminum  rack, sold at outfitter shops. They are useless for a expedition, often no strong enough and only for  show offs.

   In Laos we had to move through mud, the marks are 74 cm high, that is 2 1/2 foot. We only realized  today. Good, the body  is raised.
   We achieved it by extenders on the springs,

                                          
                                                          see the mark?  we never washed the brown mud remains away. 74 cm high

                  
                  the extenders on all springs .  change rubber bushing frequently               lockable hub on the front wheels
  
   The free hub saves fuel as you can disconnect the transmission from the wheels. front propeller shaft and differential remain still, and
   do not rotate. A good practice.

   The 3" angle bar (front and rear) is bolted to bumper and chassis. The two notches (three sets, left ,middle, right) on the bar hold the
   lifter arm of our high lift jack, that it might not slide sideward's. The jack lifts  2 ft high. The timber on the steps are to go under the
   jack, screws fit exactly the holes of the jack foot. Again, not to slide sideward's, and if one get stuck in soft ground, one needs a large
   base, that's why the timber.

            
   The red and yellow switches operate outside halogen lights on three sides. in case someone approaches in the night.
   Two cigarette lighters provide power for the electronic equipment and reading lamp. On the right side the switch for heater system
   which we installed. Do not forget it is cold in the northern hemisphere and winter in Europe when we were there. How cozy when the
   warm air stream blows from the ventilation holes. Not a luxury, but a must. In Namibia on the Atlantic it was so cold and damp,
   that our breath froze inside of our windows.
   We woke up and- stared the engine, run it 10 minutes in idle and the thermometer showed 28 degree again.

               
            under the engine hood you notice  two batteries. We still run 12 volt. The separator in the right picture charges the batteries.

   If one fail, the other jumps in. A good and safe way if you travel alone in remote areas. They also run our 12 volt fridge for cool drinks.
   Actually it is not only a fridge, it can heat too. You further notice a large radiator. An important asset of your car. No overheating when
   you struggle in low speed through sand. Naturally it has an electric fan still. The engine is not original. It is a B14, four cylinder from
   the Toyota Dyna light truck. The engine brackets have been modified. It has 105 HP and no turbocharger. Although it "drinks almost
   15 liter/ 100 km. Nothing here in Brunei, but in black Africa and Europe your eyes water, when you fill the tank

   For the engine, the overall strategy is, keep it simple. The less engine electronic you have, the better. Desert powder dust crawls into
   everywhere, electronics will likely spark ,then smoke and -finish. Maybe the engine still run. You got to enquire with some
   manufacturer. Grease your car frequently.
   Replace the water pump, overhaul the alternator and starter. Our gearbox made problems. We did not open it, but should have done it,
   to check  the bearings and change the seals. Have a set of radiator hoses, repair tools. have diesel filters and oil filter. have a sieve
   when filling in the bush. Run the diesel through the fine sieve, if it is cheap kerosene it will foam.
   Tires?
   Only the best will do. We used Goodrich Baja, now after 52.000 km they are still  40%. Hard to beat such quality. Check the max
   load of the tiers. Ours have 1100 kg per tire. Total 4400 kg max load. Weight your full vehicle and check. We came to 3200kg. Drive
   to your tire shop and let them check the torque on your wheel studs. They tie them with air hammers; you would have difficult to open
   them with your cross spanner. Let them loosen it a bit and tie yourself the nuts by hand. Have tire repair kit to patch up a cut. Have
   extra inner tube for the  tire. A good 12 V compressor used for lorries is a must. Do not buy saloon car compressors they are useless.
   Have two quality mounting iron to get tires from the ream if needed.  Do Not buy cheap China tool!

                 
               Inside we installed in aluminum plates lockable boxes for our valuable equipment. Cushioned, one could rest the arm
               on it comfortable.

                    
                All windows have curtains to close at night, or when parking. It was hard to look in for any tentative thief.

         
           storage compartment some food and plates                                       or cooker run on small gas bottles. A good choice.

   We were sleeping on storage boxes for food, plates and dresses, but had too many. Too much cloth as well. The rear side door
   windows have stainless steel netting, therefore both window can be opened for fresh air, but keeping insects out.
   A 12 volt fan sucks air in  if needed. It can run all night as it drains one battery only.

               
                              S/S  netting riveted to the door                                                where the African thief tried to cut through

   An expedition strains your vehicle and you to the maximum. It is different if you drive a short challenging 4 W/D trip for some days or,
   if you are day by day concentrated behind the steering, on roads and tracks in foreign land. You and your car must endure abuse, one
   would not think off.
   A breakdown at the wrong place could be the end of the journey or even your life. You hit a person or a child running into your car, for
   sure you are lynched on the spot in some African bush villages. It is always your fault, if you do not come to their country the accident
   would not occur. The best what can happen is, you end in a police jail among thieves and murderers there awaiting a trial for years.
   But your car, do not expect to meet it complete anymore. The police take your passport, your money and your dignity.
   Your "cell colleagues" the scum of the country, suspect on you funds, perhaps in the "Poop hole" and  they make you do things you
   would not dream off. If you quarrel they beat you. The police, including the boss has no interest in the case, as a life means nothing,
   but your money they are after.
   Expect they collaborate with your "companions" in cell, to beat the hell out of you, make you soft and tell where your cash in the car is
   hidden.
   You see why the vehicle must be in superb condition just as you. Before the every day journey, inspect it, crawl under, check  axles
   and drive shafts, check for leaks. Your breaks must be 100%!
   The Laos woman which fell from the motorcycle seat would be dead by now and we in a cell in Laos, if not because of fast reaction
   and excellent brakes. The same with a child in Africa, running into the road in front of us.
   In the desert all our cameras and electronic was sealed in plastic bags, then in the poach and again in a lockable compartment. That
   care kept all functioning. Take it out when needed and put it quickly back in.
   Foldable camping chairs and table make a meal comfortable. Use a chair with backrest. Never eat veggie! Not even in 5 star
   hotels. Harun did just that and was victim of food poisoning in Delhi. It was a night to remember.
   Avoid eating local food, cook your own, you know what is inside your meal.

   There is much more to be thought off, but it will be subject of a book.

     Thursday 8-5-08

   The journey to Bintulu was without events and we arrived by early afternoon. Fuelling at the PETRONAS station people came from all   
   over to greet us and have a photo. The Malaysian are very interested. "PETRONAS does also expeditions, but there are many vehicles
   and with mechanics and workshops attached." Said the Boss.
  
                                      
                                                         The PETRONAS team demanded a photo well, here it is

   The night we spend in Bintulu, a spacious town with wide roads and new estates coming up on the outskirt. It is oil and gas what
   makes  the city rich.

     Friday 9-5-08.

   We left  early driving towards Miri, the Border town to Brunei. There we planned to stay two nights until Sunday, clean JAMBO, make
   him presentable for his home. Miles upon miles we drove, passing Oil palm estates on both sides of the road.
   It is strange. Instead of Rainforest with all its diversity, monoculture by the thousands of hectares, belonging to a few individuals. We   
   stopped where they cleared the land for plantation.
   I have nothing against palm oil production, but there is no harm if they leave every 5 kilometer a natural strip of rainforest only 500 m
   wide for birds and insects, for small mammal to live in. (big profit trees they have hacked out anyhow). Why not?
   It would help nature to survive. And spread the ownership of plantations to the indigenous people of Sarawak.

   So, symbolically we knock  gentle one of the owners door in his air-conditioned leather couch room.
   "Forgive us to intrude, but we speak for Nature, Heir voice it seams you cannot hear". He maybe  interrupt:
   "Who are you to disturb me while  I'm busy counting my money. I have to invest in Australia, and USA" Get out!

          
                            before you get this                                                          they clear the land ( rape the environment?)

             
           a last tree standing as if by mistake                                    another site,  here they are "successful leveling"

   This tree died because of the oil plantation fires. I stood long in front of him, thinking of what the Orang Asli say, the Punans and the
   Iban, that every living thing including trees have a personality. And it was to me as if his spirit started to speak, with broken and burned
   out voice "You!" he said. "You man, you came to this earth a few million year ago. We trees were here much longer!
   Who are you to treat nature like that? I curse you because of your actions!
   Why does some of  you destroy the land and the millions of years old rainforest with wanton logging  indiscriminately? 
   Does biodiversity mean anything to them and you? Why do you not stop them? Why do they not replant what is cut?
   Or is the word "profit" all you can think off during day and night? Are they considering themselves human?
   Or are they just empty shell's in which Satan poured destructional behavior and exploitation?
   Is greed what drives them, or are they just stupid? Or both?  Don't you know that when I was alive, as millions of us which they have
   logged out, I was home to birds and thousands of insects? To butterflies and ants? To worms and other creatures? Creepers lived off
   me and mosses?" I shaded the sun bears when it rain. I shade the Orang Utans, and my fruits were food for them as for birds, such
   as the hornbill.
   They breath air in their miserable live which I cleaned with my leaves. I give you all  oxygen to breath, without you die.
  
   I listen carefully, the wind picked up, was hauling by now, a weather  approached.
   It was as if the spirit thundered: "This men are not worth natures beauty. Go and replant every tree they have cut. Go!"  
   "Oh no, spirit it is not me". I defended myself. "Then tell me, what do you do to stop this onslaught on us?" "Spirit I will speak out!"
   While I turned, the first raindrops fell. At the distance the fire was burning, smoke rose into the air. I went back to JAMBO thinking of
   what I had read long ago:
   "When the final days have come to pass before the doomsday, the beast will reign on earth, his name is 666."

                           
         Plantation workers out of Indonesia. "What is your salary a day" I asked. "RM 10.- (that is for our European readers Euro 2.20).

   A group of women were approaching, Indonesians. They work in the plantation, and as the land, they are exploited.
   Or are you honorable reader calling their salary of RM 10.-/day a wage?
   650.000 Ibans in Sarawak struggle through live. They would not work for such a token. "Who issue the working permit?
   And minimum wage? Never heard of that?"
   We stopped at the Iban longhouse to ask a few questions. "Why is it you Iban' being the majority in Sarawak are sidelined when it
   comes to economic development? Logging companies cut the big trees behind the Longhouse on your ancestral land perhaps,
   show you a piece of paper, the permission. They got it maybe in dubious circumstances.
   What you get for?  A generator for your longhouse and your Ketua (village head) a jeep just to calm you. (It happen in Sabah on the  
   Kalimantan border, where we spoke with people).     
   Don't you know, when your trees are gone, the loggers are gone too?
   You have the Genset, but no money to buy fuel and soon creepers take over this machine, the "cheat on you".
   Have you ever demanded from the government allocations of let's say 25 ha blocks for each family to plant oil palms? Paid by the
   logging firms which make their millions?  Have you applied ? What was their reply?
    "A promise in TV, but no actions."
   25 ha will give a comfortable life, hard working you must, but for your own pocket."
   They kept quiet. "You do not have a party?"  "We have". "But?". For the European readers to know, Ibans are great individualists.
   To have a common aim is almost impossible. They do not trust each other. And that is exploited and manipulated by other interests.
   If all would be voting for one Iban party, they are the strongest in the government, could stop logging and natures destruction.
   Sorry to say, that is their deficiency. It goes to an extend that, who can afford will buy a small generator for his home, although a
   bigger diesel unit for the whole longhouse with meter to each unit, would be much cheaper.
   There are no fruit tree in front of a longhouse. A kid could pick a fruit, that means trouble. Why like that? They say they do not
   want fighting

              

    Although the population in  Sarawak consist of  Ibans and Punan as majority. They have no say in events affecting their land and their
    live. Ibans are smart and kids are bright. But as of now, no chance to act as one. A thing so easy for Chinese or us. 
    " All Ibans are the same blood, why can you not go together?" I continued. They looked to the floor and remain silent.

   By 3:00pm we checked into a hotel in Miri. "Big hallo", The first Brunei car saw us and flashed the lights, Surely a SMS will reach
   their friends. "We have seen them in Miri"

   JAMBO got a proper clean up.

       

     Saturday 10-5-08

   Web site and a little shopping is on the days plan. Otherwise reflecting on our journey and awaiting,
    what will happen once we are over the border.

     Sunday 11-5-08

   This is the day of our return. Only 35 km to the border remain, we are nervous yes, but exited to be home.

                          
                                           Shiny and ready to be seen, Our JAMBO, the companion which never let us down
The last kilometers passed, at the distance we could see the graceful rise of the Baram bridge spanning the 1000 km long river roiling in yellow brown color to the not to distant ocean, loaded with silt and sediments, consisting of topsoil an clay, washed down in Borneo's  interior due to unscrupulous logging. The old orang asli still tell of a time when the river was clean and dolphins came up into the interior until Marudi settlement playful in their dozen. Fish was plenty, no one need to hunger. These paradise times have gone..
Some men's greed and stupidity, only a few, changed all that. Why are they in power and not stopped?
With every heavy rain the now exposed earth is washed down into the rivers and carried out to the sea, not nurturing plant grow anymore. Borneo's soil is poor on nutrients. That's why there is so much erosion. Trees spread their roots flat out on the surface. The deeper soil has no minerals the roots cannot feed on. Not enough "food" to sustain plant grow. How long it takes until some fern get hold again? And once gone, when again will be topsoil produced to help a tree seed to grow? In one hundred years? Two hundred?
We all know that and yet allow it to happen. Is it not, that we are responsible too?

The bridge behind us, we were rolling into the Malaysian border post chopped our carnet and the passport and curved the last meters to the Brunei border "the heart was pounding in the throat" as we knew there were people waiting to welcome us

The final stage of our journey had begun. Click Brunei if you  honorable reader is still interested in the now unfolding events.