...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Germany /Austria

Tuesday 2-10-07

   Climbing up from sea level Northwards through the Southern Alps, we reached our alpine home in the afternoon. For the milk cows of
   our neighbor, JAMBO was an unusual sight. "Look Resi" said one to the other: "what an attractive bull that is; and sooo blue."
   Ten weeks ago we left from here. It was summer. Now winter stands at the doorsteps and being in a height of 1100m, the chilly winds
   of autumn blow the falling leafs over the countryside. A double rainbow, spanning wide, welcomed us after this long journey.

Wednesday 3-10-07

Unpacking and cleaning our JAMBO was the work of the day.

Thursday 4-10-07

JAMBO has wear and tear problems with a gearbox seal. And since we want to make a service too, we brought it to a trusted
workshop where the car remained until the 12-10-07.

Friday 5 -10-07

   We had to drive to Munich.
   Our "carnet de passage" the custom document is valid for one year only and will expire in January 08. Since we plan to travel most of
   next year, we need another one and Miss Karina, the Carnet boss of ADAC the German Automobile Club will issue a new one, once
   we surrendered the old one, in our possession.
   The dad of Harun asked if he could join, as there is the Oktoberfest which he, in his old age liked to see for the last time. Although
   Ramadan, we could not reject the wish and so, we left together early morning. The road to Munich, 360 km away, is finest Highway
   with speed limit of 130 km/h, or none at all in Germany, cutting through the mountains with a series of tunnels, of which the longest is
   about 6 km. High rise the snowcapped Alps above, separating the weather North-South. Rain sets in usually from North West and
   since the heavy, moisture loaded clouds cannot climb over the mountaintops easily, the South enjoys sunshine while in Salzburg the
   "Schnuerlregen" has set in. That is "raining like strings".
   In Munich, we went first to the ADAC, where within minutes, the new Carnet was ready. The "guarantor of smooth custom formalities"
   was handed with a smile. "Thank you Miss Karina!"
   Leaving the car there, we went for a few hours to the Oktoberfest, the greatest spectacle in the world. It has to be said here, we do
   not intend to promote beer drinking or excessive fun, moreover it is Ramadan, but this fun fair is worth a few words.

Thanks Miss Karina Oktoberfest in Munich

   Visitors from every continent travel to Munich to enjoy and drink beer during the 2 weeks long Oktoberfest.
   The newspaper wrote that on the opening day, the 23rd of September, the visitors consumed 500.000 liter beer and ate more than 10
   roasted oxen. Yes they grill a whole oxen on a mammoth grill and slice the portions from the carcass. Like in the middle ages.
   And when the gates closed after 16 days, 6.2 million visitors drunk 6.7 million liter beer, ate thousands of grill chicken and consumed
   104 oxen. It is the most visited fair on our God given earth; this year for the 174th time.

All this happen below the feet of "Bavaria" statue. Surely visitors have more searching eyes for the toilet direction under her, as for
herself. A half drunk has no eyes for art and beauty of this kind.

Bavaria statue and a direction indicator, internationally understood Entrance to a beer tent

   While one billion Muslim all over the planet devote their time in Ramadan for reflection and prayer, here in Munich for 2 weeks man is
   crazy, here the Almighty is forgotten. During the "Wiesn" you do not find a hotel room, nor a parking easily. The guests fly in from
   overseas, lodge in an overpriced hotel booked month in advance, if they are lucky to find one, and are willing to pay double rate.
   It is Oktoberfest.
   Smart Europeans, especially the Dutch and Italians, up to a distance of 2000 km, arrive in Campervans which is the cheapest way.
   Park it as close it can get, but still a few kilometer away, trek in straight line in the afternoon to the Wies'n and, after 3 or 4 "Mass"
   stagger back with weak legs and knees like rubber. Some have difficulty to find the parking lot. "Where, Mr. Policeman? "hick" where
   is my camper?" How would he know? If the drunk man cannot find it he will rest under a tree and sleep away until the chilly air of
   autumn wakes him later in the night. Shivering and half sober now, he search for his "home" just to repeat the Wiesn visit the next day
   again.
   For 2 weeks the police is instructed to take it easy and look the other way. One get the feeling, they only intercept, if a driver cannot
   find the keyhole of the car anymore. Then they advise him, " you better drive tomorrow".
   But it has to be said, not many come with their car. From the periphery of Munich, people take the frequent trains, as parking is a
   problem so is the drunk driving.

The Oktoberfest visitors are counted by the hundred thousand inside a beer tent

In each tent plays a brass band folk music for everyone to bawl. They are paid to keep the good mood up, and to maximize the
consumption.

up on the bench On the stage The Bavarian brass band in lederhosen

It is a madhouse! You cannot talk but have to shout. Some people get brave and stand on the benches. Maybe all life working in the
job "below" others, now is their action time.

                    That is what is all about. Drink a "Mass"               and eat a "Hendl"(Chicken). Two hundred grill at any given time

   If a drunkard becomes a troublemaker, he is dealt with security personnel. If you feel great, after a few "Mass" perhaps the wife back
   home is always above your head, but now feeling strong enough to take anyone on and you start trouble, security personnel grab you.
   Much faster you are out than you ever came in. If you protest and intend to make further "wahalla" then the "Minna" the green police
   van arrives, door open and you join a few others, laying or sitting there awaiting the transport into a overnight stay in the
   "Ausnuechterung zelle" That is a lock up until morning. When you awake, sober now but with terrible headache, you are freed after
   settling the troublemaker fine. Lets  hope you remember the hotel you paid but did not sleep last night. A 3 star establishment cost
   easy B$ 220.- a night.
   In-between these beer tents, stroll the visitors, ride a rollercoaster, or scare their girlfriend in a spooky house, to hold her tight or steal
   a kiss. Ride up a ferries wheel, shoot with air guns for a plastic roses, show strength on machines where you squeeze two handles,
   and be either a lightweight office helper or a athlete all depending on you or the machine adjustment. Eat grill chicken, bratwurst or
   fish, ice-cream or roasted  almonds, giant "Brezen", candy floss and Turkish honey. But foremost drink "a Mass" as the saying goes
   and wander around, as one of a hundred thousand fun seekers.

The ferries wheel hundreds of marzipan hearths stating " Ich liebe dich" (I love you)

To see and be seen. Girls dress attractive in "Dirndl tracht" (historic Bavarian dress) and some men wear the Lederhos'n. And
it does not matter from which country the "fashion girls" come from. It is still pretty to wear.

And there are the other guys! In this case Brits and Scots. Also in their exceptional dresses. They would not have gone "free" under;
would they? It was so cool that everything shrinks.

Mary Winterbottom, Rose Bushman, and Pamela Blue the Scots full of Mystery (underwear or not?)

   May we present the "three ladies of Heathrow, Mary, Rose and Pamela". Please notice the well formed legs and the feminine arms.
   Colorful body paintings enhance the slender grace of their legs, which end in Italian designers shoes of the Bugatti Bertolini
   collection, The stripe and tattoos below the knees of Mary show taste and originality. A sporty flair resembling the "athletic foot"
   radiates from the shoes.
   Regretfully, if the wind is unfavorable, the scent tickles the nose of the curious, so strong that one intent to retreat.
    "Mammi what is so stinky?" asked a little girl when passing closely. However they are undaunted! With unsurpassed grace Miss
   Rose open heir arms, holding the Champaign bottle for a drink and a ladies welcome.

   Pamela dressed in exquisite blue shows heir sexy calf muscles proudly. No doggie would dare to use it mistakenly as a tree to pee
   onto them. We forgot to ask: "Do they go to the female toilet?"

"Lederhosen" and me on the way to the Wiesn Bavarians, "Feeling good"

In the rotating "Spin" pay to be afraid! Even a few Africans were here; it seams somehow lost

   The spooky house was our last stop and the professional hantu (ghost) invited me into his domain. "Free of charge" he said. But I had
   to decline. So he send his greetings to all girls who are scared of such a "phony", and warned that he might come one night to frighten
   them in their dreams.
   Soon we were on our way back to Austria.

My father in law slept most of the way, the sound sleep, which no "hantu" could disturb. A great man in a great age. 92 years and 5
month he saw the world up till now and has a few years more, for sure.

On the way, the view is spectacular, the green summer leaves turned yellowish and brown in autumn, leaving bare tree branches
throughout the chilly winter.

View from our home

   We passed castle Hochosterwitz a beautiful preserved residence mentioned already 1000 years ago. In the 16th century, the way up
   was enforced with defense towers. Here lived and reigned the counts, protected the peasants from foreign attacks, collected "safety
   toll" from passing caravans and had a good life as long as there was peace.

   In such court yards up here, minnesinger in warm summer nights seduced ladies easily with their songs of love. It was maybe in such
   castles where the chastity belt was invented. You may wonder what this is all about, well we try to explain. It was a wild time back
   then a 1000 years ago. and not every married woman was faithful to heir husband.( nor was he, just like today).
   When they were called to arms and battle, some married men had worries about their wives, which they had to leave behind. Although
   she vowed to be eternally faithful, but once the husband was "overthehorizon" the minnesingers was to provide consolation and
   comfort. With their lyre and soft voice they became a serious competitor for the women's favors. "Sing for me " She asked him. And
   with a voice soft as silk, he sung of love, longing, and yearning. while the husband fought somewhere far away, or snored tiered in a
   tent with his comrades in his dirty battle garment, unwashed for weeks.

   It is hard to blame a lonely countess or damsel of the castle, if she in heir grief sinks into the arms of a singer man with a voice of an
   angel. And here is the hitch!
   Men went to war for month and coming back victorious or defeated, in either case they did not like a newborn in the sleeping chamber
   which they could not have produced. Therefore, history saw many tragic moment Many unfaithful women have been chained to iron
   balls and rotted away in the castles dungeons, not larger than 1 m by 1m.

a castle dungeon has just a little space and an iron ball, to which the prisoner is chained

   Until the invention of the said chastity belt.
   This clever construction is a lockable iron belt worn by the woman around the waist She wear it, as long as the husband was out
   and away. The belt slings in front down, between the legs and up at the back again. A gruesome invention this was indeed.
   Lockable and completely made of strong iron, it had small opening for bodily functions. To remove it, one needed the key for the lock,
   which the husband kept tightly with him as it was guarantor of his wives chastity. Dear reader let me ask you: what was the most
   desired profession those days back? Yes it was the blacksmith, as he could make a copy of the key.
   It is not recorded how many double key were made. But surely should the husband become aware of one, that cost the craftsman his
   head. But it is said, a few blacksmiths took the chances for cash advance or jewels from the ladies immaculate neck and became
   quiet rich. "where is the necklace of our marriage" thundered the returning husband. " it fell down the toilet dearest, how happy I'm you
   are back". And while he still grumbled about her carelessness the precious chain rested perhaps in a safe of a Jewish pawnshop
   owner, as trading with jewelry and gold coins was one of their preferred professions.

   The knights up there had a good life when peace prevailed. However we know, that is not always the case. They were once besieged
   for several month, as the castle was very difficult to conquer. Why it cannot be raided? If you look, you see on the way up defense
   towers every 100 m.

two towers on the way up; this is one, to shoot down this one has a draw bridge

another gate and defense method the feared openings in the ceiling

   Totally there are 14 protective gates, with iron grills, drawbridges, and holes in the ceiling, from which boiled pitch and sulfur was
   poured onto the attackers under.
   And as the case might be, also the night-pots of the castle ladies, as in those days back, a toilet was out in the courtyard, far away
   from the chambers. They had to have a pot under the bed for the urgent calls of nature, which when filled, proofed to be potent
   weapons. Down these ceiling openings they went too, just to stop the attackers. It is said the enemy feared the night pots as much
   as hot sulfur...

   For several month now, the foreign army had pitched the tents in the valley, just to wait until the food run out. "We starve them to
   death!" was the parole. Water they had up there, but weeks passing, nothing to eat anymore. The chicken long gone, the bones
   cooked for soup, even birds avoided nesting in such time there. The trustworthy hunting dog" FIFFI", skinny by now, became hunted
   himself and hided away, scared to come to the open, since the hungry eyes of the master, rested long on him.
   In such a time they had one oxen left, he was fed by leaves of chestnut trees. Being a realist, the ox expected to see the heavens
   soon. But not as he thought.

from here they throw the last ox down there the army waited for the surrender, which never came

   After a lengthy meeting the count and his trusted knights decided to go for a bluff. This creature, the last of all food up there they throw
   over the walls and down to the valley and made noise as if they would have another feast and funfair with plenty to eat. All afternoon
   and long into the night they bang the (empty) pots, glasses made sounds as if another beer washed a giant steak down the throat. In
   the valley, the soldiers listen, it did not go unnoticed.

   Winter had set in. The animals of surrounding farms were already confiscated and consumed, soldiers started to grumble in the bitter
   cold, as the promised booty of the castle was farther away than ever. So frustrated was the enemy commander that he decided to
   pack and leave. "They must have plenty to eat up there" Soldiers saddle the horses!" command he, and under the eyes of the castle
   defenders, man and beast directed their way south towards Italia beyond the Karawanken, where air is mild and booty plenty.

Southern Limestone mountains the "Karawanken" a 60 km away by day and evening, seen from our home. Behind is Italy. Towards
there, the frustrated army marched in search for easier prey.

That was a story from Hochosterwitz. Carinthia has about 200 castles all remains of turbulent times.

From: Saturday 6-10-07.

Monday 15-10- 07

   We went to Klagenfurt town and met Stephan the reporter for the "Visit Brunei story". After a lengthily discussion he said: "You must
   write a book."
   That is what we intend to do. He will inform us when our story is in the German newspaper. And a lady, seeing JAMBO, waited for us
   20 minutes, asking lots of questions. Finally she said she and her friends want to come next year. "Welcome in Brunei and let us
   keep in touch.". That was direct engagement.

"JAMBO" in Austria with Reporter Stephan

We got now the final confirmation, yes we can travel on the 24th back to Brunei. That is good news for us.

     Tuesday 16-10-07
     to
     Monday 23-10-07

   Last night came snow. Down to 1300meters now, the white blanket of winter covered the land and advised to get ready for freezing
   temperatures. These were the last days of autumn here in Southern Austria. The air is clear and cold now, animals grazing over
   summer on the meadows, have returned to the stables.
   For a day we traveled in the mountains around the former border between Austria and Italy, taking a few pictures to share with you
   the beauty of nature.

   Steep slopes, narrow valleys, high limestone mountains. From the mountain springs, unpolluted water flows down in
   crystal clear stream of transparent turquoise color, between 3 ft and 6 foot deep. It just looks beautiful. A fisherman easily maneuvers
   the bait in front of the trout, for an early and sure catch.
   Once upon a time in my childhood, our Kampong Air waters sparkled too. What has become of it? We Malay could surely do better
   and we have to...

     Tuesday 24-10-07
   We are leaving; " JAMBO" remains behind in Austria, sitting on woodblocks, antifreeze in the "belly" (motor, radiator and wiper water)
   waiting out the winter and our return somewhere around February. Covered up with plastic the usual snowstorms of January should
   do no harm. Departing from Austria, our fine airline RBA will bring us back to Brunei.

     Friday 27-10-07
   Yesterday, after a relaxed flight we returned home. There was plenty tasty food on board, served with a smile from the heart.
   RBA stewardesses are surely the finest and deserve a "thank you" and top marks in in-flight service. Entertainment, films and games
   shortening the travel and who got tiered, slept. Almost in no time came the announcement:
   "Tuan-Tuan dan Puan-Puan... we are landing in 10 minutes..."
   Standing in front of the airport I looked around. Trees branches and flowers sway in the afternoon breeze, a few clouds crossed the
    sky. With a deep deep breath I inhaled the warm air and thought " Brunei Darussalam, my small and peaceful country I love you! Here
    I grow up, here are my family roots, you deserve all my caring.
   "Nice we are back" said Harun my suami married to, for 18 years. I knew he was happy to be here again. Brunei became his second
   home.
    Reflecting the journey, we have traversed in total 16 countries to Europe, carrying the message into each and everyone:

                                                 "COME AND VISIT BRUNEI DARUSSALAM"
     We distributed our tourism brochures, whatever we had, until we run out of them in Austria. Can we measure our success in
     Tourist numbers? Maybe not. Sure there are those who said, they will come. But there are others, European tourist in Namibia,Egypt
     Jordan, Syria and Turkey, who stood next to the car listening to Norhayati's explanations, maybe considering: " perhaps my next
     holiday I go Brunei." Then the ones reading about the journey in their local newspapers hearing for the first time about
     Brunei Darussalam. Success in numbers we do not have, but overall achievement of the task? People judged and said: " you do a
     great job for your country" ( European tourists in Namibia, Egypt and Jordan). "What about finances" the Egyptian journalist
     asked. I mention nothing, knowing on our shoulders rest 70% of all expenses occurred. But it was worth it! More is to come on
     the way back to Brunei.

      " Your folks in Brunei are a kind hearted" said the Nurse in Zambia .She operates one of several clinics, we had given a plastic bag
     full of sterilized dressings and syringes. She could not believe it. A foreigner bumps into the bush clinic just like that and donate
     those items? " It is from the people of Brunei" I said. When we left, she had tears in the eyes. They have nothing.
     I mean really nothing! No sterilized dressing, no medicine, no syringes. Wounds are only disinfected and left open. Larger get a
     bandage, but the patient has to bring it. And a few outdated antibiotic tablets maybe.

    Black Africa is bleeding! We had experienced the suffering of man, caused by ruthless economic or political actions, by unfortunate
    ignorance, or the power of guns and greed. Some countries suffer more, some less, some recover from years of war and famine,
    others, like South Africa are going down due to lawlessness and corruption.
    Dear reader how grateful we have to be, for what we enjoy in Brunei Darussalam.

    This is also the time to thank once more all, who helped to make the trip possible. Either with actions or donations which reduced our
    financial burden. Foremost Dato Hamdillah, Sheikh Jamaluddin from Ministry of Industry and Primary Resources, then the fine
    airline RBA, you will get a few passengers, that is sure. Even the last bushman knows meanwhile our name.
    Big Thanks to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, The Embassies in Egypt, Jordan and Kuala Lumpur. The Land Transport Department
    officers, Immigration Passport Section, Polis, and many more.
    Then, Pengiran Salleh Ab Rahman the Patron of 4WD Association Brunei. Often we said when thundering along gravel roads, "it
    would be nice if he, Sheikh Abbas, in fact the whole association, could be here too.
    My thanks go to SCB, Pg Hjh Roziana bte Pg. Hj Muhidi and everyone else who helped to easy the burden of the credit card cheat
    in Namibia.
    Thanks to the Brunei Freight Forwarders Association BRUFA, foremost the president Mr Hj Abd Saman which transferred the car for
    us to Cape Town at no cost. H.H.Lim the scrutinizer of our spending his wife Anne, which collected among her friends funds for us.
    She open meanwhile a fine vegetarian restaurant in Batu Satu, it is highly recommended.
    Thanks to Sin Hup Huat and Kim Hoe, R.A.C Technologies Sdn Bhd, Mr Chua Min Chu, Decorbuilt Sdn Bhd, Energy Heavy
    Equipment Sdn Bhd, Pro-Builder Sdn Bhd, AEBY Sdn Bhd, Low San Hardware, Resmi Jaya for their donations and the two Malay
    women both kind enough to donate from their own purse.
    To my family and members of Women Business Council thanks for your prayers. They worked. Allah had his hand over us.
    And Fauzidah, which run our small company. Thank you too. What would we do without you?

    It is said: "Once in Africa, you will return!" How true it is. Nothing match the Serengeti's open plains, where wildebeest roam by the
    hundred thousand, the roar of lions, a hippo chasing Harun, seeing the white rhino, the Himbas and Mursi in all their shades, their
    customs and cultures. Despite the dangers, the pilfer and the cheating. One day we will return!

    But our journey continues for now. What will be the most difficult part? The run for some donations I guess.
    From January on, we travel along the Silk Route, passing through countries with long history, and look forward to reach Brunei
    Darussalam in May/June 08. Until January we organize visas. We like to stop a few days in Mecca for a small Umbrah on the way to
    Yemen and Oman. We will try hard to obtain one.
    But, I say it again: "It is the call of the wild. which I miss already; One day, we will, we must return to Africa!"

We have completed the red line with all diversions. 27,871 km

       At the end of our Trans-Africa journey, let us reflect some moments, frozen in time and worth remembering.
       Happenings, somewhere on route. These pictures you have not seen elsewhere in our report. Some have
       a deeper meaning.

African Roads

             "Rich man!" Umbrella, Kalashnikov and a plastic pot                               Hama Beauty and her friend


                                timber " transport"                                            and "water tanker" note his brake (the tire below)

                                                                "JAMBO" and Brunei in the center of interest


                            Nasser lake,  Sudan got flooding only                                           wonders of the white desert

only sheep follow a donkey The graceful Karo beauty What life can he expect?

I'm cute and you? Large poster in the Brunei Embassy Cairo

Thanks 4 W/D association and Thanks to the companies too

Our freight forwarders, thanks, you are the best transit in Sudan, driving onto the ferry

Blown up bellies caused by malnutrition

"conversations" on route Do not only look! "Have you been in beautiful Brunei?"

on route in Ethiopia The meager kitchen of a Bedouin (Sinai)

                       "Allah created the desert, that HE has one place on earth to wander free and undisturbed" (Arab proverb)

At last, a few lines of Harun:

    Distinguished reader,
   If Norhayati my wife, would have been born 600 years earlier and perhaps in Europe, her name would be among the greatest
    names of discoverers. She has all what is needed. The will for success, spirit, courage, endurance, the desire to learn, to
    understand and respect other cultures. She is technically fit and able to concentrated for hours while driving, be it a car or a
    boat as in the past.
    I remember how she pursued donations, phoning the line hot. She wrote heir fingers wound in a hundred over letters, asking for
    support. Finally succeeding with some, these donors of great heart and spirit, are mentioned. Others she could not convince, but
    that is left to them.
    Should we financially be able to travel the globe as planned, and share our travels in books read home and abroad,
    she will - without exaggeration- enter history as one of the great, if not the greatest female Muslim traveler of the 20th century.

    Yours, respectfully and humble, Harun her suami

My wife, a Muslim and Brunei Malay

     Another newspaper in Austria revealed our journey to the public.

   Dear reader who spend precious time reading our boring story, please go to ASIA OVERLAND we are about to start the trip of our
   lifetime from Austria to Brunei. No, not the straight route "comfortabile" as the Italian say, via Turkey and Iran. We detour and travel
   through Saudi and Yemen. Only heaven knows what will wait for us there.

Follow our journey with the easiness of a mouse click. And remember, as long as there is an update, we are alive and kicking.