SATURDAY 22 May 2010
  
   We had flown to Barcelona first, and took the AVE  a high speed train to Madrid. Cheaper than a flight and comfortable.  

             
                             AVE shiny and polished                                                                    relaxed travel

              
                          almost as fast as Formula 1                                            not much could the camera  see                           
 
   The AVE runs mostly on straight rails through the country. He cuts through mountains in series of tunnels, passing vineyards and
   pine forests and halts only a few times in major cities. With 300 km/h he would cross Brunei in less than 20 minutes. The eye could
   not cope with the speed when looking at closer range. Only afar one would recognize the details.                     

                                      
                                                                      vineyards and an agriculture estate

   We checked into a hotel 40 km away from Madrid, the reason being the exorbitant prices which for a 3 star hotel were not less than
   euro 280.- . That is 560 Brunei dollars. The reason is maybe that the Europe cup final, which was played and fans streamed into the
   town by the thousands. Intermilan send the Bayern Muenchen beer drinkers back to the Hofbrauhaus, defeated and frustrated.
   Together with  2000 fans, who came to see them winning .It was a sad Saturday for them.

   SUNDAY 23-5-2010

   We had been early morning at the Madrid airport, just to get an emergency exit. Unfortunately in vain. The Iberia flight took of at noon
   in southerly direction, passing Cadiz, leaving the European continent behind. Ahead was  the Atlantic ocean and our adventures on
   the South American continent. We wonder what will wait for us. After a 13 hours flight and still on Sunday the pilot made a perfect
   touch down.  Buenos Aires greeted us with rain. It was evening and cool. A half hour it took to the hotel and to bed. We were dead
   tired.

   MONDAY 24-5-2010

  A view from the office of the maritime agent, who handles our JAMBO, gives you an first impression of modern Buenos Aires.
  The city of about 3 million is something like, let say Singapore. Just not that clean, and there are homeless in street corners
  and parks, Glue  sniffers and drug addicts who hang around in certain areas., a thing impossible in the glittering Far East Capital.

        

   Most Argentineans are descendants of European settler. Of the estimated 50 million, over 85% are of European origin.
   Argentina  is the largest Spanish speaking nation.
   The nation had troubled history too, but more on this later in our web site.

The country celebrates on 24 May and 25 May, that is today and tomorrow their independence day, the revolution of  the
25 may 1810. They had to come into terms   with their history. First came the Spaniards  then the Brits who "cooked" and helped to get rid of Spanish colonialists, until they finally   were kicked out from Buenos Aires too.
That is reason to celebrate for two days. Theater and folklore, street musicians play and sell their CD's..
Offices are closed, Above the major festivities fly's the air force in a show of strength, and thieves are looking for an easy targets, such as Harun.  In the crowd, where one pushed to other, a "smarty" nicked his valet out of the trouser.
Not that there was much inside, as it is never due to precaution, but Harun could have the valet in his jacket, zip closed.
The thief got little cash and some addresses, useless to him, and we got a lesson.
Be extremely careful in South America too.

Actually it was a turbulent history, those days back in 1808. No sooner the occupants of Buenos Aires had kicked out the Brits from Rio de la Plata, The Spaniards put another king in charge for the kingdom here. But Spain's dominance on the world stage came to an end. Napoleon entered Spain with his army, took the power off the King and appointed; na whom you guess to be in charge? His brother Josef.

              
                            Who of you nicked Harun's money???                                                the obelix in the main town square

   The sugar spinner man turned stoically the wheel, while his wife cashed in. Per pink sweetie she charged about euro 1.-. The money-
   spinner (and that was it), Was operated by his foot  Like a sewing machine. Per 3 minutes he created out of a spoon full sugar,
   what all kids like. A native girl, likely a descendant of the Mayas begged, but mum could not afford the price, Therefore I  stepped in.

                                      
                                The money spinner                                   a happy kid is more worth than pesos 5.-  

   Vehicles paraded, one after the other, mostly tuned up rally racers  loud and stinky. One more roaring than the other.
   Accelerating for fun  that the tiers smoked. The audience applauded to such a spectacle.

        
        The Argentineans like sport. Next to football comes motor racing.                             Crowds by the thousands

                                     
                              The huge flower a metal tulip, open and closes with the day and turns according to the sun

   This stainless steel flower big as a large house, was something unique. At dawn she open to turn with the sun throughout the day
   as a common flower will do. At nightfall she closes the pedals for a sleep.  It was not a bad idea from an 82 years old architect.

   TUESDAY 25-5-2010

   Again a day of massive celebration. They came with busses from outside town, just to be part of the festivities, and if it is only as an
   onlooker.                                               
   Due to the holiday, all offices were closed. We booked a town sightseeing tour and never again! Sixty pesos for three hours. There
   were 20 people in the bus. The guide explained in Spanish, Portuguese, French and English which had the effect that that woman
   talked fast and permanent until our ears ring. Then, the pick up in various hotels took already a half hour left 2 ½. We stopped twice.
   The first time near souvenir shops." Here ladies and gentlemen I give you 40 minutes, perhaps you like to buy something."
   The second time on a football stadium. "Here played Maradona. If you want to go into Maradona's stadium, you must pay".
   We had no interest on both and just waited the time out. The only event worth to mention further  was our bus number as you see.
   Again 117. Thank you great one.

                            
                                       my lucky number again                                         Diego Maradona stadium, entering cost money

   We went off earlier and tried our luck out. Driving by taxi to the mosque, we hoped to meet some Muslim to get more information
   about the community and their Halal food. Besides the security guards, there was no one around. This mosque was deserted.
   We will try again during Friday prayer .
   Not without some resistance went this Mosque up. However it was supported by then the President Carlos Menem, the son of a
   Syrian settler and financed by King Fahd with 15 mio US$. The mosque has space for 1000 faithful and attached are galleries,
   schools, dormitories and a cultural center. There are suppose to be 700.000 Muslim in Argentina.

             
                        The mosque together with school and dormitory, financed by the Saudi King.

   Upon recommendation went to LA BOCA, on the inner harbor where immigrants first settled. As they were poor those days back,
   they had painted there houses, made from metal sheets, with left over paint from ship works, so it is said
   Today it became a tourist attraction and as such we were not the only ones there.

          
                                The tourist attraction of Buenos Aires "La Bocka, Caminete"

                           
                          poor La Bocka neighborhood                                 two tourist stick their heads through the tango board

         
                     here greet two fellows from a balcony                                    and these are Maradona and Eva Peron

   As you see honorable reader, this is Tourism gimmick.
   But look what we have here.
   A fellow following the luring fingers of the mother hooker calling from above. Shamefully hiding the identity and disappearing with
   urgent steps in the establishment of sins.  "Just for 3 minutes; it never last longer"  he excused himself. Who would this guy be?

                                            
                                              Watch out!  A client sneaking into the house of many promises
   But it was all a joke.
   Truly the seafarers had urgent needs after  many month at sea and therefore in every port there are willing girls.

   The two day festivities draws many into town in the look out for some quick money. Artists, drop outs, and musicians. Here we met
   really masters on the pan flute and other indigenous instruments. This Ecuadorian group made outstanding music. A pity you
   cannot hear it.

                     
                              they made  amazing music                                                           never seen such a flute before

   They tour South America and sold their CD's right on the stands here. The "extra long pan flute". made a deep sound like a
   ship fog horn.

                
                    This instrument made a clacking sound                                                    a tune like a chirping bird 

         
                           a case full of instrument                                                               knocking sound with two stones

         
         He ornament tea cups (Mate or Chimarrao drink)                               others  sold Argentinean flags

   WEDNESDAY 26-5-2010

   We were early up to meet the challenge how to get JAMBO out of the port fast and cheap. It was a running from one place to the other 
   A custom broker did not like to do the job another charged high, until we by chance found a tiny lady or girl rater, a single woman
   office broker,  hectic as if she has ants in her pants.
   US$ 400.- for her paperwork she wanted. We had to agree and went with her to custom, a bunch of friendly official. No problem with
   your car. That was good news. But it did not remain that cheap. The maritime company who gets the shippers documents released,
   charged for their service including "god knows mockery" extras, US$ 596.-
   And then Belen the lady boss said, tomorrow you have to pay port charges. "How much again/?" Estimated US$ 1300.-.
   That looked to us rather extremely high. We were shocked; but lets get JAMBO out, then we talk.

          
        The smallest is Vanessa the quirky custom broker.                         This custom official held me like his girlfriend

   It was a friendly atmosphere with the Argentinean custom official; lets hope we get JAMBO out tomorrow.

   THURSDAY 27-5-2010
 
   It was hectic day indeed .We left the hotel by 8:00 am and return at 7:30evening. In-between running around. First the Chile consulate  
   for my visa. Our hotel booking was not good enough. Then to an internet café to book another one.

   Then to the bank for US$ ,what we need to release JAMBO. The First bank with big doors and brass polisher fittings send us out.
   "We only serve our distinguished clientele." Then We saw HSBC. That is a bank like home, we rushed in stopped by a girl.
   "I need US 1500.- from the visa card. "Go to ATM" . "But ATM gives only small amount can you not call and verify."  "So sorry" (she
   never was) we cannot do that. In the fourth bank ("SACRAMENTO CASH FOR EVERYONE) " I got the needed amount. From there 
   through town to an insurance company, which insures the car for several countries. High up in the skyscraper, after the security made
   a photo of us, in the 24th floor the insurance broker.
   (See dear reader how easy they make money only with promises) "We are tourist and need..." You must go to our branch..."
   Down the elevator, stopping a taxi "por favor..." , We found the office. Yes we can give you the insurance it cost for 2 month
   US$ 164.-"
   "OK. OK".  "Take the bill you must go and pay first. "Where???"  "In the head office"." But we just come from there..."

   After two hours we had our insurance to cover us in our travels. We rush to the Chile embassy, it was 3:00pm. The office was closed.
   What  do we now? To the Bolivian consulate, the consular spoke German. We had a friendly discussion and he too was amazed about  
   our travel since Brunei. "Rush for your visa application" said he, but  it is in another office" and he gave us the address. Into a taxi and 
   we got stuck in the traffic.

   By 4:28 pm we stormed the wide marble stairs up, the door was still open. "Por favor visa..."  The consul had phone the officer. I filled  
   the form and in broken English he said we should come in 4 weeks. We again; "Por favor officer..."
   "OK.OK. come tomorrow by 12:00 noon for the visa."
   When we stepped out of the building it was 5:20 pm and getting dark. We have been in our feet since morning and not drunk or eaten  
   anything. Sitting in a restaurant for a meal the phone rung. It was Belen the maritime company boss handling our case.
   "Bring tomorrow US$1300.- by 9:00 to our office, by 10.00 we open the container."
   That was good news for us and relieved we went into our 16 sqm hotel room for a deserved rest. But NO JAMBO; that will be tomorrow.

                                 
                                     Homeless. How does someone like him feel being ignored by relatives and society?

   FRIDAY 28-5-2010
 
   Since 3:00pm, JAMBO rolls on Argentinean roads. When the container doors open, with  happy feeling  we saw an old friend again. 
   How many miles we made with him? How many nights we slept there?  Both lower straps had been cut due to bad weather at sea, but
   the upper once holding from the roof rack, were intact. Therefore the car could not move.              
   No scratch whatsoever.  The custom did not even look at JAMBO, he just chopped the carnet, and wondered how someone from 
   Brunei  could reach South Americas shores.
   What to say? By the turn of the key the engine run with a deep sound. The men around looking at our stickers, were now
   respectfully stepped back. "Good machine" said one.               
  
   To roll out from port, we had to dig deep into the pocket, paying more than in Russia. Totally US$ 2.560.-. Only the unloading,
   meaning to open the doors, push out JAMBO, work of 5 minutes cost over US$ 600.- which is by all accounts a rip off.
   They charged us as if they had 1000 boxes to offload. In Russia the port mafia called the shots.
   Here the Argentinean?       
   That is Belen the lady who arranged JAMBO's  release form port. We were just coming from the bank.
   Remembering how much we had to pay, I could not smile.

                 
                    the high price was a bitter pill                                                 Buenos Aires bank building

                                 
                            JAMBO in Argentina                                                       hundred? steaks on a mega grill.

    We parked JAMBO securely and went for an Argentinean steak. It was juicy and soft. That was a day for celebration and our last
    night in Buenos Aires.
  
   SATURDAY 29-5-2010   

   I got yesterday the visa for Bolivia. In 10 days we return to Buenos Aires for visas of Chile, Brazil and Uruguay. For now, we leave
   southbound to Ushuaia the last settlement before the Antarctic. But first turning west towards Mendoza a town on the foothills of the
   Mt. Aconcagua.
   Driving all day in rain westwards through agriculture land, we stopped at the petrol station for our first night in Hotel de la JAMBO.
   The agric sector is still the most important export earner. Mostly from haciendas with 5000 ha land. Over 50 mio Cattle, 28 mio   
   sheep and 3 mio horses compete for grazing land. Advancing are soya beans ( over 17 mio ha)  since seed is planted right into the
   ground and fields are not plowed anymore. This became possible with gene altered seed, which is resistant against herbicides.
   Spray the field first that all grass and flowers die, then plant "Frankenstein" soya beans.

                   
                                                   Buenos Aires weather; a reason to get away
  
   It is Wednesday the second June. Please forgive us honorable and distinguished reader, as we have not been able to update our web
   site .The reason being, that we travelled in the Cordillera los Andes southbound , driving during daylight and sleeping in JAMBO
   somewhere, when night fell.
   But no more long talks, let us tell you of what has been happening. First and foremost we are well. We hope you are O.K. too.

   SUNDAY 30-5-2010

   We were travelling westbound, reaching Mendoza town after about 1000 km. From there the road climbs' up into the Andes and over
   a pass to Chile. We went until the foothills of the Aconcagua,  the highest mountain of the western hemisphere, reaching almost
   7000m.

                                 
                                                             The Andes; about 100 km away, barely any traffic

   I recalled that in 2002 we wanted to climb it, those days back, there was lots of enthusiasm, but no sponsors. Now as in winter the
   Aconcagua fascia looks as impressive as ever, even from 2700 m height. We walked the  snowfield up to the viewpoint.
   The sky was clear and crystal blue. On the crest one could see the snow flying, blown up hundreds of meters. The Aconcagua is well
   known and feared by mountaineers for fierce storms which can set in with hours.

             
   I looked up and  talked to him: "You" I said: " Just wait; I might come back to see you again, to climb and stand on your summit as
   one of the few conqueror.

                  
                                               The Aconcagua, 6962 m high, seen from Puente del Inca        

      For today I raise the flag, symbol of my beloved Brunei. As so often on our journey, it was the first time ever.

          
                      On the foothills of the  Aconcagua                                                     My hubby, supporter and cameraman

   Only a stone throw away exists the Puente del Inca, a natural Stonebridge over the Rio Mendoza, which is up here still small.

           
                             The natural Stonebridge found in every Argentinean travel guide

   And where tourists come, there are souvenir sellers. Unique are the cups for the Yambre mate, the national drink of Argentine.

             
                                    Indian headgear                                                        Cow-hoofs are sold as tea cups are.

   It was cold, below freezing and we wasted no time but turned back, down to Mendoza town. Again the Mountain view was something
   out of paradise for us. A splendor of ruggedness and color. 

       
                             rolling on fine roads                                                         "sugar" powdered slopes

             
                                            arid rocks                                                                 gravel slopes caused by  erosion

        
                      JAMBO in the Andes                                                     Stone formations like mountain spirits, watching over us

   Reaching Mendoza by nightfall we turned south, and drove still a while in the dark, which is already at 5.30pm, due to the very
   southerly location. In fact every day we travelled further south, the daylight hours are reduced. In Bolson where we are now, the day
   begins only at 9.30 am. Therefore our travel time becomes short.
   We did not know where we slept, it was just a small track in,  away from the main road. Curtains closed, and in now time we slept
   away- to wake up in the night shivering. "Harun, I need the other sleeping bag". He had put the second one, which we have with us,
   on top already. Then on it was cozy and warm.

   MONDAY 31-5-2010

   The sun was rising in a cloud free sky. It was cold, little above 0 degree. Starting the engine and waiting until the heater blew some
   warm air, we waited and had a coffee in the car. Slowly it became brighter. I looked out. We had parked close by two Indian graves.

        
                                         By 8:00 am                                                                     and by 9:00am  Pampa for miles  

   Walking carefully around, there were lots of bottles filled with water on the graves, obviously for the walk in the afterlife.
   Then I noticed the dog.
   He was skinny, sitting next to the grave behind a bush and looking at us earnestly. The small grave was new. Did his owner died
   recently? I have heard stories where dogs waited their time out next to the grave of the master. That was their loyalty.
   Or was it the spirit of the deceased? Whatever, when Harun call him, he came limping, he could not use his left rear leg.
   The bread we gave went down on no time. He was that hungry.

                    
                                      see him behind the bush?                                                          silent, earnestly looking
 
   The Incas believed in reincarnation.

   On another grave over the road, was, as if sleeping an Andean cat, one of the endangered species. She had to die with the deceased,
   now resting with him.

   Many figures all with the same symbolic. A mother breastfeeding a baby. translated perhaps:
   The earth-goddess feeds our children. A small figure in the house of brick and metal sheet was supposed to be him. A Gaucho, when
   alive. On his feet a chocolate bar for strength on his journey in afterlife. They have their moral code too.
   "Do not steal, do not lie. do not be lazy."

            
                              Earth-goddess and her sibling                                                              The Gaucho

   But we went on towards south, Ushuaia, only 2,800 km away. Driving all day through - and I say it again- astonishing landscape,
   always on a high plateau between 800 and 1400m above sea level. Sparsely populated.

         
        Two of Argentines riches: One, is cattle as here seen grazing...       .  ..and two, is gas and oil, even here in 1000 m height

    Please do not ask where we slept. We just stooped turned away from the road, closed the curtains and dreamed away.

   TUESDAY 1-6-2010

   This morning we scratched ice from the inside of the windscreen, that cold  it was.

                                  
                                                                    our windscreen;  ice on the inside from our breath

   But our heating, once the engine run, made our interior warm and we soon had a cozy temperature and with it came our good mood
   again.

          
                                                    two more photos.  JAMBO in the high Pampa

       
                                 traveling along the Andes                                                               The natural "Chinese wall"

   My eyes never got enough of all we saw. Then on the roadside a sign "Diamond salt mine". we drove in. Here they skim with a grader
   the saltpan, and load it onto transporters or pack it in 20 kg sacks. All metal is heavy corroded.

          
                                         the salt pan                                                           salt scrapped with a grader from the pan    

        
             Not snow, that is a small mountain of white gold  (salt)                                      packing into 20 kg sacks

   The travel book told about petrified trees and since it was on route, we turned in to see what is it all about. Well it was not much. The
   Indian farmer charges us Pesos 10.- about Euro 4.-, since the trees were on his property.

                                 
                                The farmer and his "moneymaker". He had dragged the stem from the original location.

   We drove all day again on the Routa 40, always having the Andes on our right side, hills up and hills down, passing a river bridge
   again. In the riverbed occasionally a group of Chilenian flamingos searching for fish and plants in the water.

            
                             crystal clear waters                                           a group of flamingos warming themselves in the sunshine

           
                                  an army control                                                                what you think; they have diesel?

   Shortly before the fuel station which we met this army control post, the girl officer was of Indian ancestry. "How far is until Carlos de
   Bariloche?"  "Doscientos (200)  kilometros." She smiled.
   She needed names and passport numbers of us. In fact before any major settlement there was a political control, police control and
   heaven knows who else. A bit of a nuisance.

   We passed the wall of the Cyclopes and behind the castle. At least so it looked. As if someone had stacked mighty stone blocks as if 
   for defense

.             
   The walls of the Cyclopes                                                                         up there they reign

   Driving, driving, driving. all day long. We stopped only for a brief moment to eat something, it was by chance on a spring.
   But the smell! Like rotten eggs. I could not stand the stink and held my nose close. 

            
                The pyramid tip, a loner over time                                                                    terrible the smell

   Further down the road two Gauchos separated some cattle and we stopped to film. It is amazing how easy they sit in the saddle,
   directing the horses here and there. And the horse know what to do.

                  
   To be a Gaucho is no dream job. Every day outside, come rain or shine. It is cold. Watching over cattle, repairing the fences, make
   sure they have water and look in general over the wellbeing of the animals.  A Gaucho is born poor and remains so throughout his live.

                  
                    Notice the leg protectors against cold and chill?                                       His helper with him

   Yet there is pride in his work. Just look how he holds his stick. The other one, an old man with white beard was exhausted from
   the chase and "hung" only on the horseback. For how much longer?

    WEDNESDAY 2-6-2010

   Yesterday we drove until Bolson, and slept in the middle of town on the shores of a lake. No one disturbed us. It was raining. The
   landscape had gradually changed. Conferrers and yellow or leafless trees dominated the view now, It is winter here in Patagonia.

             
           Make no mistake it is 9:30 am; barley a daylight                                     the land now, wet and cold

   More often ice warning are seen in shaded areas. We had to watch, the road would be very slippery. Again we drove all day
   southwards until a town called Esquel, to check into a hotel  for a night. To write the happenings and load it for all of you out there. 
   But foremost to wash ourselves, as in the last 5 days, the body had not seen a soap.

        
                            Changing landscape with fog and snow                                                    a bamboo coping with the chill
  
   Honorable reader, forgive us when we are not able to load the story for another few days again. We are sorry but where
   we travel there is nothing with exemption of some shabby Indian houses somewhere in the land.

   THURSDAY  3-6- 2010

   We are leaving the coziness of the warm hotel room to face the chill again while going south. "How many days more before we
   reach Ushuaia and return north again" I asked Harun. "Maybe four days more". I'm longing for sunshine." Looking out of the
   window it was snowing. We had learned to travel about 140 km to 200 km before we reach another settlement again. The road turned 
   again away from the mountains and as such as may times before the arid landscape in the clear sunlight is astonishing to look at.

   Later afternoon we came to a settlement and we decided to put up for the night, asking the "hotel" owner if we could park
   and sleep in JAMBO. He honored to have someone from Brunei, so he said. Once he saw a film about my beloved nation. A westerly
   storm was blowing from the Andes, carrying ice crystals, so strong that even leafless trees bend in the wind. We went into La union
   for a meal and, as you can see honorable reader we got one. Cold beans in vinegar water...

      
               the beans specialty restaurant                                                                   "Buono appetito"  

   We have reached far south meanwhile just look at the angle of the satellite dish. It is almost horizontal.
   The TV satellite stands over the equator as you know.

          
                                almost horizontal dish                                                               branches bending in the icy wind

   The night was long, meaning I wake up several times. Only the second sleeping bag ontop the first, held me warm. The hauling wind
   rattled JAMBO. Sometime after 3:00am Harun started the engine to warm our interior. Afterwards it was better and we slept until
   daylight, which comes now around 9:30 am.

   FRIDAY 4-6-2010

   Today we intended to reach El Calafate a tourist town, about 70 km away from the Glacier park. We consulted our map and she
   indicted an access road into the park before El Calafate town. The junction was easy found and we turned westwards on a gravel road
   along the shores of a lake. Somehow we wondered; if this is the road to the Glacier park, why was it not tarred? For 75 km we
   thundered along the gravel road. seeing once a while herds of alpacas, which the sooner we came closer, turned away and fled. 

                 
                                                            guanacos run, the moment we stop

           
                The road into the park;  here we picked a thorn                                            astonishing  peaks

   At the end, that was after 1½ hours driving we came to the gate, which was closed. "Access only from the central zone."
   "Harun, they could have put the sign up outside on the main road; hence we could avoid the 150 km journey." "Right you are, but did
   we not came to many foolish things on our journey?".

   What to do? We turned around and continued to La Calafate town. It became evening, then night. By 8:00pm we drove into a petrol
   station. The steering was difficult to turn. No sooner we were in the station lights, the attendant pointed to the right front tire. Harun
   went out to look. It had only 1/3 of air, there was a hole. But Providence was generous. The same building housed a tire repair shop.
   We just managed to drive in and as the last job of today, they repaired the puncture, caused by a thorn which we picked up at the
   gravel road .

              
                         luck was with us...                                                                     4046.6 km on Argentinean roads

   Before El Calafate town we checked the GPS. We had driven in Argentina 4.046 km ,as distances are enormous here.
   This night we camped in town. The shower water was hot, a welcoming change to the freezing temperatures. Later lying back and
   slowly drifting away, three dogs begun to bark in the vicinity. A small one in high pitch, a medium, and a big with a deep tone.
   It was the small one, which always started, then the others joined in for 10 minutes. Then silence. The small one again... and so forth.
   Only in the early hours they fell quiet. When we left a 9:00 am, it was still dark, the dogs slept. I had silenced them several times- in
   my imagination. With ears plugged and sleeping bag over the head, I could find some rest.

   SATURDAY 5-6-2010

         
             over 20 km long, reaching far into the park                                               the fascia or "tongue" 60 m high  

   The reason we came to El Calfate is the Glacier park and in particular the Moreno glacier. We had to drive, about 70 km further into
   the wilderness then he came into view. The fascia is about 60 m height, and it calves constantly, meaning pieces break away and
   thunder into the lake. This glacier is alive and moving. Constantly it cracks somewhere and this breaking sound echoes back from
   the adjacent mountains. 

           
                             pieces breaking off constantly                               another crack is heard, then a mighty splash follows
                                                
          
                    compressed by weight, the ice turns green/blue                            another view of the glacier

            
                                                                                  broken away, ice dilutes slowly

             
                                                                               Brunei is ever-present   

             
                                                             an Argentinean walkway system for our National park
 
   We saw it here. Argentina made. Not slippery, maintenance free as the metal is galvanized, strong, and lasting.

  Another 294 km Southeast lies Rio Gallegos town, from there we had to cross Chile to reach Ushuaia the southernmost town of our
  planet. Arriving at night we went to the bus station which is busy long into the night, to enquire about a transit visa issued at the border.
  The conductor said in plain English, that there is nothing like that. We got to see the Consulate. That would be on Monday the earliest.
  Therefore we decided to hop onto a plane and fly the last 250 km, before we went to rest in our "Hotel de la JAMBO".

   SUNDAY  6-6-2010

   We were early at the Mini airport. There was a plane at 9:10am.When the staff arrived they had bad news." Sorry, the plane is full"
   But just wait, there is maybe a "no show". That was the case. By 9:00 he called us. "Passports". Happy we surrendered the
   documents." We like to return this evening as your flight plan indicates. "No flight in the evening". "When again?"  "Tuesday" That was
   too late. What shall we do in Ushuaia?  "Go to "Austral" airline counter." We went there. "You have a flight today back from Ushuaia?"
   No tomorrow".
   OK we thought, then stay a night down where the world ends, and returned to the first counter man. "We found a flight..." he
   interrupted.
   "See the couple? I gave them the two seats."
   But Bruneians do not give up easy. Back to the Austral counter. When is your next flight to Ushuaia. "There is one from El Calafate
   by 12:55, and tomorrow back." "We take the flights.
   The 294 km back to El Calafate (I will remember the name a long time) the road climbs form sea level up to 600m. The Northwesterly
   wind was blowing against us. JAMBO endured the whole trip in gear No 4. The fifth, he could not get over 88km/h, we would be too
   late. Besides the road was icy and slippery in large parts.

                            
                                                               "In 4th gear racing back to El Calafate"

   We had arrived 15 minutes before departure. I stormed into the departure hall passing the security, he, looking at me, adjusted his
   revolver belt, just to make sure his gun is handy in case he needs it, and to the counter to surrender our boarding passes, while Harun
   parked the car and run with our luggage behind.
   Sitting later in the plane and looking down into the desolate landscape I thought;" We made it"

     
                  desolate and cold;  Southern Patagonia                                                         The bay of Ushuaia
                                                                                                                               
   The rest of the afternoon we used to make the obligatory pictures and visited a Museum.
   But first of all, Ushuaia is not interesting. Especially now in winter, when there are only a few tourist around. That put pressure on high
   hotel prices. Therefore we got a reasonable price for our stay.

   "They are short with short, rachitic legs compared to the length of the truck and the arms are too long." That is how one Father
   Gusinde describes the native Yamane's when arriving in Tierra del Fuego. "Their noses were wide and they had a narrow forehead.
   Neither man nor woman can walk completely upright. Their eyes are in general black with Chinese like features. And the go
   completely  naked!"
    
                         

                               
   Completely naked! Dear reader. In a land, where the wind often blows with 120km/h. In winter driving the snow and ice horizontally at
   temperatures below freezing. When sun shines it has "cozy"  0 degree C. In hot summer days the thermometer climbs seldom
   to16 C. That is the temperature of a cold drink.
   The body temperature is above 37degree, therefore the Yamani's should freeze to death within minutes, But they did not. True they  
   stunk for the explorers noses from old fish fat put onto the body. But what is a few millimeter of applied to a 6" thick blubber with
   which a sea creature like sea lion or whale living in these waters is protected? 

   They rowed around in their self-made canoes catching fish, from which they lived. Science never established how they could survive.
   To day here are no more Yamani's. Not the weather decimated them, but deceases brought by the white man. Smallpox alone
   reduced the population into half.
   On 18th December 1832 Charles Darwin (the very) met them and he wrote: These poor wretches were stunned in their growth, their
   hideous faces bedaubed with white paint, their skins filthy and greasy, their hair entangled, their voices discordant, their gestures
   violent and without dignity. Viewing such man, one can hardly make oneself believe they are fellow-creatures, and inhabitants of the
   same world".

   It was Ferdinand Magellan who spotted the natives first in 1520 when discovering the straight, which now bears his name.
   We had arrived in Ushuaia and went straight to town, a small, now lonely place.
   Practically no visitors except us. The hotel in town center was a welcoming change to our "de la JAMBO". We worked on the web site
   and did not leave the room anymore. By 5:00 pm it was getting dark. And the wind! This terrible chill outside. Honestly dear reader. If
   you recall, in Mauretania the ugly oversized African woman reversed into the left door of JAMBO since then there is a small gap, when
   closing it. Very small, the rubber does not seal properly. Now, we drive with 105 km/h, our usual speed, along the road and guess  
   what?
   The ice wind from behind blows through that gap! That means the storm is faster than 105 km/h. Maybe blowing with 120km/h.
   We got to get out of here!

   MONDAY 7-6-2010

   We explored the town and went to the national park, hiring a private taxi because of the better price.
   In the small port some now idle tourist ships, otherwise it was quiet. On several walls an artist, likely encouraged by the town fathers,
   expressed his fantasy some pictures in remarkable reality expressing agony.

                        
                                                              Ushuaia setting;  beautiful but cold

         
              snowy mountains and cold sea                                                            Brunei flag at the "end of the world"

     
 
   Mind you, these are all wall paintings within the town. Remarkable expressions.
   But we walked to the most important building, the old prison and the museum. As always and everywhere undesired subjects,
   (whatever that means) were either killed or carried away into lands where there is no escape. Such a penal colony had Ushuaia.

                                                The cells left and right of the corridor                                                a painting on the cell walls

            
           Two inmates; one has not got the prison dress as of yet                          original staircase to the second floor

   The receptionist of the attached museum was curious from where we came. It was the first time she heard about Brunei. It was high
    time! "Small but beautiful, and warm". And she commented: "I try to find the money to visit you one day..."

           
                           "There is my home..."                                                              Yamane couple with canoe

   Notice the kneecap of the women, caused by kneeling in boats rowing for days while fishing.

   We had arranged a pick up at 10:00 am, the Taxi driver, Andreas, was punctual and we drove the few kilometers to the southernmost
   point of the Pan Americana. Here she literally ends.

        
                          Alaska only 17548 km away                                                                   sea lions

    From across the bay we heard  roars of sea lions playing on a stony island. My Tele was too small; therefore the picture is blur.

         
     Two pictures from the region, which give you an impression of the land and sea in which  once upon a time the Yamani's reigned,
     until the white man had shown up on its shores. 
    
                                
                                                            Looking towards the end of the world.   

   We had almost overseen our time and rushed to the airport to catch the flight at 13:20 to Calfate, where we came from.
   Checking our luggage in, we waited; then the announcement 3 times at 13:00 at 14:30, at 15:30, "flight delayed."

   By 16:50 we took off and landed without our luggage in Calafatte. "We give you Pesos 100.- per missing luggage, enough for a small
   meal and a toothbrush. That is all we can do". "When shall we check again?" Tomorrow morning there are two flights from
   Buenos Aires, maybe your luggage has been mistakenly send there..."
   We slept in "Hotel de la JAMBO"  another cold night. So cold that on the petrol station the man  cleaned the headlights with water
   from his Thermos.

         
         hot water for the headlights                                                                                     shiny, icy road

   TUESDAY 8-6-2010

   The flights from Buenos Ares were delayed. But it did not matter, because our luggage was not on them. It came with another flight in
   the afternoon from Ushuaia. They had simply forgotten to put it on the plane.

   We now turned to East-Argentina, as the brochures were full of praise for one place, a National park on peninsula Valdes.
   Driving long into the night;  the first 240 km on gravel road and the tar all the way.

      
            Southern Patagonia has hardly any vegetation                                               Ice-cold Southern Atlantic

   When the road climbed we had some fantastic, but chilly views. Hotel de la JAMBO was again our home
   for the night.  

   WEDNESDAY 9-6-2010

   We had another "flat". The tires have now 40.000, mostly rough kilometers on them. Maybe we have to change them.

   The shop attendant was more interested on our journey, that working in the chill. But what this station had was a young guanaco,
   who went around begging for food. What we tried so hard and never succeeded to photo one from the front in the wild, here we got the
   chance.

         
                        Introducing Brunei                                                      Any jam on the bread?

                   
                                 Anything for me?                                              They are just beautiful with their big eyes

   Driving all day north, by night we had reached Valdes and paid the entrance fee of 45 pesos per nose, drove another 120 km to a
   fishing village, found the municipal camping and slept away in no time, to be woken by a jogger, at least he had the dress, but why a
   craw bar in the hand? We switched the sidelights (Halogen lights shining down from the roof rack) and he run quickly into the adjacent
   bushes, not to be seen again.

       
           Here along came the jogger with the crow bar                        Only two sleeping bags kept us cozy; but then the wake up...

   THURSDAY 10-6-2010

   We were existed. Today we are to see: Whales, sea lions, sea elephants, penguins, sea otters and what else on sea creatures may
   relaxes at the shores. That promised the colorful brochure. First we went to the "three Pyramids" viewing point. A impressive title,
   which turned to be the roofs of three rangers huts.

           
                       The view point                                                                   relaxed and sleeping; sea lions

   Indeed we saw some lions in a distance lying on the rocks. "You must travel to Valdes point, there you see everything" said the
   ranger and we obeyed.
   Only another 75 km to drive then there would be the viewing point. We thundered the gravel road along, the stones sprung and the
   grazing sheep too.

   Arriving on Valdes point there was nothing. Please see yourself. Only gravel.

            
                        Looking to the North                                                                           Looking to South

   Frustrated we went on as there was still once chance, the North point of Valdes, only 72 km away. Pacing along, we reached the
   place within an hour. Our eagle eyes searched the shore until the horizon. Nothing.

       
             Northernmost point                                                                      Entrance ticket the only wale tail we ever saw

   Honorable reader we include the ticket which shows a tail of a whale. That you may not be disappointed as we were.
   The best of the Peninsula National park was the brochure.
   Early afternoon we were on our way northbound towards Buenos Aires only 1240 km away. Checked in the evening into a small hotel,  
   to update our web site for you to see it in time.

   FRIDAY 11-6-2010

   All day we drove north towards Buenos Aires. The landscape becoming greener in some parts. In others desertification is seen, due
   to extensive agriculture activities. No trees which could hold the wind at bay, But the land is big and empty. No settlements for 100 km
   also up here. It has great potentials for Agric business.
   In the evening We turned as so often into a petrol station for a sleep in "Hotel de la JAMBO". The petrol stations have restaurant,
   clean washrooms, free internet, coffee and bakery,  fueling customers come back to such a comfort.

       
                            desertification                                                                   See Yati at the breakfast restaurant?

   It is here where I caught Harun in an embarrassing situation. He had so it seems fallen, head over heals in love with an attractive, sexy
   intelligent female of the black race. Suddenly he was gone. Locking for him I just caught him  on camera the very moment of the    
   "much in love" kiss.

   Below is the proof! No man can be trusted!

                                    
                                                               We better don't show, what he was thinking

   SATURDAY  12-6-2010

   It was raining since last night. Meadows and fields were soaked, cattle and horses stood still their rear facing wind and rain.
   Where there was shelter of trees, animals stood under waiting for an end. It was cold, not more than 5 degree.
   We drove again the whole day in this dreadful weather, but took the time to watch world cup Argentina win against Nigeria.
   During the game hardly any vehicle was on the road. All Argentineans true football fans, were banned to the TV.
   The Nigerians had their JUJU man who performed his hocus-pocus in the arena, with a rotating green and white pained calabash   
   something. His headgear was impressive, like a cock comb.
   Since they lost, maybe the team will beat him up considering his magic useless.
  
   It became evening and we were 40 km away from Buenos Aires. It was time to look for a camping place.

   Using the GPS we choose  "Angelic heaven" as it was the nearest. Following the direction given we drove for over 2 hours in circles,
   to come back to the same position twice. Imagine driving at night now, raining, the evening traffic racing home from work,  we in-
   between.
   The GPS female voice directed us: "Turn right at the slip ramp, drive 6 km, take second exit on the round about. Arriving, there was
   no round about, as meanwhile they had upgraded the road to a two lane highway. We were on it and could not go down until the next
   exit. The female voice: "Recalculating...exit in 14.3 km (it was the next auto pista exit). We obeyed, no other choice.
   The voice again:" Recalculating..., drive on....
   After another hour we came closer to the camp ground, only about 3 km away. Drive right on... drive left... straight for 1.1 km turn
   sharp left at the junction. The closer we came the deeper into a slum. Then there was no more tar, only mud. Then only rubbish on
   the road.
   In a foreign country, a foreign town and in the slums? That was taking chances. If we have a flat tire here what will happen?
   The GPS finally found the camping. A dark place, no one around. It looked closed. A light shone from a window next to the entrance.
   We blow the horn. 
   Nothing. "Blow again". Harun had just open the door to check the situation, when suddenly two dogs raced from behind the house
   towards us. Harun could just, but only just, slam the door close. I will never forget their  aggression, their teeth outside, the salvia on
   the doo window. One tried to jump onto the bonnet, but slipped down as all was wet.
   We reversed at once and were out followed by these black devils barking, biting the tires where they could and chasing us away.

           

   We had enough of a camping ground and went to a petrol station, to sleep there. The black dressed security man, with revolver  
   and handcuffs said, "No problem".  Obviously not that safe, because why would he be there in the first place.

   SUNDAY 13-6-2006 

   It was raining since yesterday. We plotted the Sarmiento hotel into the GPs and then all was easy. We intended to stay there again,
   since it was a clean place, with a safe car park nearby.

   However on the way we went to a famous part, the Mataderos market, where handicrafts and paintings are sold and bought, Gauchos
   dresses such as ponchos, booth, whips, toys, children paintings, glassware, you name it. The tourist come look for old items like
   knifes of which some " are guaranteed old and one even from 1841" as a worn imprint in the blade indicates.
   He would not know that it was faked just two weeks ago in the sellers workshop.

          
                     The important finger up, "this is special"                              the long knife was expensive and awaiting a buyer

   We met the two in historical dress; They are here every Sunday since 13 years, performing dances on stage.

                  
                                "I'm from Brunei..."                                                             You would not recognize me?

   On sunny days, tourists busses arrive, to offload the spenders by the hundreds. A wondrous place indeed.

   Above the marked thrones EL RESERO, who had when closer looking no shoes or booth on.

                   
                                        The bare feet rider memorial completed in 1932

   Children paintings are for sale too. One next to the other.

         

   The painting indicate the Child's way seeing the world. Mostly happy faces, including laughing cows in a trailer on the way to the
   slaughter house, which in fact was just around the corner.

                                     
                                                          Two Argentinean proudly wearing  traditional dress

   Wherever we parked JAMBO, people gathered to look. Sometime I could explain more about my beloved Brunei and our travel,
   sometimes by passers just stopped and wondered respectfully.

         
   The Argentineans had never seen a vehicle travelling such distances as we did. Many thumbs came up with many encouraging smiles.
  
   There was this cartoonist, having his workplace at the pedestrian corner, a young fellow. Seeing us and JAMBO, he insisted to draw
   a cartoon of each of us. "How much?" "For free, it is an honor." he said. One after another we sat down, surrounded by onlookers, the
   result is seen here.

   Over lunchtime other curiosities showed up. Here a pony not higher than one meter, There a Guanaco wearing my Brunei cap for this
   photo.

   The day passed fast and when evening came, we had checked into the hotel, busy with washing some cloth, then  a hot shower we
   fell into bed before 9:00pm.

   MONDAY 14-6-2006

   Today is the Chile visa day; by 8:30 am we were at the Embassy. The visa woman usually 1/2 hour late and the last on the counters.
   She checked and then the bad news. The approval has not yet come. We had some disappointment to tell. Two weeks and no reply.
   What we suspect is, that she perhaps send the application a few days later only, as by all account and appearance this woman
   handled her position disinterested and the job sluggish. "Can you wait a few more days?" We had enough! Buenos Aires is expensive
   and we are running out of our time plan. Before we left Buenos Aires we made two more stops. One was the manufacturer of the
   walkway you have seen in the web site, and the other, a courtesy call in the Embassy of Malaysia. After all, we are all Malay and
   brothers in Islam.
   The Diplomat Mr Mohd Shahril bin Rahmat was very forthcoming. When we told him of our journey he seemed bewildered.
   "Very challenging what you do"
   We learned that Malaysian/Singaporean team is on the way, and should arrive by the end of the Month. Five vehicles are already in
   Buenos Aires awaiting them.
   Malaysian, well done, but if there is a challenge, then Brunei, driving solo with "JAMBO"  would be a nose length ahead of you guys.
   But I guess it does not matter. Important is they have the luck they need, and all of them return safely home again.
                 
                        
                                                      In the Embassy of Malaysia in Buenos Aires (sorry for the flare)

   To Mr. Mohd. Shahril bin Rahmat, a big thank you for welcoming us without notice. And so sorry for the reflecting glass. We had not
   thought about.
   By noon we had packed, and the GPS led us out of town towards Cordoba. It was raining again. We drove into the night and slept on
   a petrol station in our "Hotel de la JAMBO"

   TUESDAY 15-6-2010

   What can we tell about seemingly endless travel? No much, except passing agriculture fields left and right, the roads are fine, partially
   on AUTOPISTA a two lane highway. On the Routa 9, along the foothills of the Andes, passing towns with scurrile names like
   SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO, SAN M DE TUCUMAN, a center of the sugar industry.
   When night fell we crawled into our JAMBO at a petrol station again.

       
                                          GM Sorghum Agriculture fields  as far as to the horizon

                             
                                     DEKALB  GM seeds out of germplasm pools, owned by Mosanto  USA

   WEDNESDAY 16-6-2010

   JAMBO needed some attention. The front break pads had to be replaced, the oil filter too. Both we had with us. Greasing was needed.
   All was done, before we headed further north. By later afternoon we reached our last stop in Argentina SAN SALVADOR DE JU JUY
   only 250 km from the Bolivian frontier.
   We had travelled in Argentina 10.200 km and not seen all but enough to say, it is a country to make holiday-if you have the time.
   Although the road network is good and almost all roads we travelled are paved, distances are enormous. The Route 40 along the
   Andes is spectacular and recommended.
   The Argentineans are open minded friendly folks. There was no harassment or bribe demands from the police, as experienced in many
   other countries. With an exemption, a short fatty in a blue jacket on a scooter who stopped in a town next to us, asking to lower the
   window. Refusing, we just waved at him. First he fingered in the jacket, maybe for an identification, but did not find it. We just smiled
   and waved. Then he found the whistle and blew into it that he face became red, all while driving slowly in the traffic. Coming around an
   intersection, he demanded us to stop at the roadside. We ignored him, accelerated and he was soon only a dot in the distance.
   Must have been some sort of official who wanted to be important.
   The food? Beef, beef, beef. Asado or Parilla. "But without garlic" Harun complained; and had a lump in the trouser pocket when we
   went to eat.
   
   THURSDAY 17-6-2010

   Last night we saw a film "Obama's deception" in YouTube. How the bankers steal money for one and plan in the  Bilderberger group 
   to take over the world by borrowing to Nations as done, and manipulating currencies. Look at it, it concerns all of mankind.
   That is you, for the sake of  your children too. Please investigate and do not remain ignorant and idle. Their final plan is a WORLD
   BANK, where all humans are under their control. They decide the taxes, the money supply, how much cash will be circulating, produce
   a crises for their benefits as done recently. Do not worry that a thief will steal your valet. There is no more cash. All you have is a chip
   (planted under the skin?) and every transaction is credited or debited there. Your taxes will be deducted, all bills. The computer know
   what you spend and how you spend. If you do not conform, they cancel your chip. What are you doing then? No way of buying your
   groceries, going to the doctor etc.  Their plans must be exposed, the faces behind shown and action taken before it is to late.
   And Obama, the hope of millions is part of it. Despite hi slogan of "Change" In his cabinet are almost all men from WALLSTREET,
   together with the "CITY OF LONDON" the very planners and manipulators. That becomes the NEW WORLD ORDER, Bush and other
   talked about.
   CHECK IT OUT!!! If they succeed, MANKIND BECOME SLAVES!!!

   But back now to our travel.
 
   We were heading north.  The road climbed slowly but steady up. Soon we had reached 2000 m. The mountain range came closer and
   spectacular Erosion made patterns and colors  made us to stop frequently.

             
                          Fine road in Argentina                                                                      erosion caused landscape

                        
                          standing high and showing us the direction                                   a close up

              
                  JAMBO had to crawl all these meters up                                  It was a long way from Ushuaia

   Late afternoon we had come to La Quiaca the border town to Bolivia. It was cold and windy.

                     
                                    The Border post                                                            "Adios  little Indian"                 

   We finally say Argentina by by and look forward to the country of EVO MORALES, its people and the land. If you like to join , please
   click BOLIVIA, where our journey continues.