...:::Brunei Trans Africa:::...

Friday 11-05-07

Yes we are in Zambia.

Victoria falls at Livingstone, only 60 km away from our ferry landing are actually the reasons to come, otherwise it is a transit route
only. The parks are not that stocked with wildlife as poaching was going on a long time.

6:00 pm over the Zambezi

We checked into the Marano river camping ground, while the sun was setting behind the Zambezi river. The early slumber was
deserved and as many nights before and a spotless sky offered myriads of stars.

Sidearm supposed to be filled with crocs; you see one?

Saturday the 12-5-07

     The morning was cool. Shivering, arranging breakfast we had visitors. Firstly, close by behind bushes was Werner, a German and
   his friend, just arrived from Europe. They had hired a 4x4 to drive until J'burg in their 3 weeks holiday. Werner went for abolition.
On the breakfast table prepared, were, bedside coffee and the bread, an apple, bananas and a cake so inviting, that even we got big
eyes and mouthwatering thoughts. "Look nice monkeys in the trees, so sweet" he said and seemingly enjoyed the group hopping and
playing.

When he returned ,one nice monkey had stolen the apple and was up in the trees, enjoying the meal. "My apple is gone!"
Suddenly they became: 'You no good monkeys!"
While he shouted towards the sky, another came from behind, hopped on the table, grapping with ruthless fingers the whole cake.
" My mother backed it extra for this trip!". We hear him shouting and looked closer. Oh yes down was Werner his fist high in the air
and up a few meters above, hung the monkey on this rear legs from the tree branch in both hands the "mothers love cake"'. the cheeks
stuffed to the limit.
He enjoyed what was mend for the son. Upset Werner went back to their truck to get two bananas , the only food he had left so he
complained. Learned meanwhile that nothing is safe, he placed them on the front seat. while he went to heat the coffee, watching
carefully. Then, it was a matter of seconds.
Another monkey jumped on then car roof, then into the car grabbed the last of Werner's "morning breakfast glory" and run along the
lawn to enjoy them. Werner after him, managed to get one of the two bananas, before the monkey was up in the safety of the tree
again. "You see this" Werner complained. "He has already blue testicles, surely because of stealing"

The thief. Ladies you are not allowed to look at his blue balls!

We went to the Victoria falls.
It is a fascinating event seeing those masses of water falling down a hundred meters. The mist rises and covers all, as if it is fog.
Lots of tourists come to see this spectacle. If you dare and are willing to pay, for a 15 minutes flightUS$80.-, then from a Micro light
you enjoy a Birdseye view. It is truly gigantic what rushes down every second. The spray covers the waterfall and drifts over the
Zambezi bridge which joins Zambia and Zimbabwe.

The Zambezi thundering down from the cliff

Is it not great? Zambezi bridge connecting Zambia with Zimbabwe
The day was gone in no time.

Sunday 13-5-07

Remaining not too long we left towards North and Lusaka, the capital, only 475 km away. The first 50 km was a horrifying pothole
tarmac ride.
Jambo was shacked to the last screw. One has to keep the tire pressure up, otherwise the thin tire flanks are cut by pothole edges.
It was a true rumbling along. Somewhere between we stopped for a while and were soon surrounded by kids, selling all sorts of
fruits and "grilled many time over" meat. From the Himba back in Namibia we had still slippers, and since most of them were bare feet
we traded those - just to see how much we can get- for oranges, which in the end we gave away.

Chichi and her grilled steaks

How much for the sandals Mama put the "thing" back in

It was a rich afternoon for some, we gave away what we had and made a few kids happy with the sandals. Many are so poor.

They had no slippers- until we came

They have nothing and yet they are happy playful and full of fun. Look at this football we took from the future" Zambia national team",

Made from rags

which was playing next to the roadside. Norhayati offered a plastic ball, and the pictures tell you how the game accelerated.
It was nice feeling to leave happy kids behind.

Norhayati approaching "I give you the ball"

" But you must catch it" "The game is on"

After these events we made a detour down to the Kariba lake, where the Zambezi is used for hydroelectric power. The map shows
a fine road, suspecting at the shores small town. We imagined a port, hectic life, fisher boats and markets. The road had some
surprises not only potholes as large as a car, but dust and dirt at the later stage.

Never drive at night! Dust rising

Then we reached a road village, where the chief tailor had his office under the sun. And since Norhayati is in everything perfect
(almost) she show the Zambian roadside fashion tailor how a Brunei woman sews the shorts fast and lasting. Harun only hoped it was
not a used one, which she twisted and turned

He could not believe his eyes Two huts, a Baobab, a dry Papaya, and life in Zambia is quickly told

Reaching the lake much too late. It was a picturesque setting, but no port, no fishermen, no market.

The Kariba lake

We turned back to the main road, leading to Lusaka. It was night when we arrived. Dangerous driving it was; as one cannot
see the people in the dark.
Many oncoming headlights shine to somewhere but not onto the road. They see nothing and you are blended. We had our additional
powerful fog lamps, they broaden our vision. And very carefully we reached Lusaka at 8:00pm, had a small meal and went into a hotel
and straight to bed.

Tomorrow we want to check the Tanzanian Embassy.

Monday 13-5-07

The sleep was lousy, being used to " Hotel de la JAMBO" coziness. We could load our story into the internet through the
Intercontinental Hotel. That we learned on route, the better the hotel the better the internet. We tried three internet cafés, all failed.

Searching for the embassy took some time, but once found we had the visas for Tanzania within two hours. The woman was very
friendly and forthcoming. It was afternoon meanwhile; sightseeing the city, we noticed a minaret and decided to leave this busy roads
behind and pay it a visit. Mohammed the second Imam, after knowing our intention and the "where we came from", welcomed us truly
as brothers. "Stay tonight for dinner". Nothing has changed since the times of Ibn Batuta.
Information about Lusaka you find in any travel guide, therefore we write about the "hard to find". It is the story of a Muslim community,
a minority living in Lusaka, holding up the live of believers, the spirit of brotherhood.
There are about 5000 Muslims in Lusaka. Five mosques cater for the spiritual needs, two Madrasah educate the children. Islam lives
here and flourish in an active community.

The mosque, has space for 300 believers. Under construction is a new one with space for 3000 worshippers.
The Lusaka Muslim society consists mostly of Indians, they settled here over time and are successful business people. "Mohammed
do you get financial help from rich Moslem countries?" I asked him. "No nothing! We finance all our self by donations and charges for
children who study in the Madrasah. We have about 800 students."

The students are separated, into age and gender groups. Indian descendants being the majority.

These young ones will carry ISLAM into their lives. The way it was for over thousand years back home in Uttar Pradesh, India, a
place the parents tell about, but which the children have never seen. They learn about the values of traditions and spiritual inheritance,
the guidance of the Koran, which, if followed, no one can fail in life.

Look at these cheerful kids, sisters and brothers from two continents, united in faith

Are they not gorgeous? Islam binds them all

Color does not matter

Studying the Arab alphabet Reciting the Koran

children from all classes of life together

Raising children in the way of ISLAM, means educating and forming not only brain, body and character, but also the young soul.
It is a big task for the teachers when all around is so much of temptations. Moreover it is because of that, kids have to grow up strong,
inherit into their blood the cause of justice. To know of right and wrong.

And these pictures seen on the notice board of the Madrasah show, that evil forces are always present. In this case Americans in
Iraq, once the cradle of civilizations. Satan works behind them in the Media, with lies and cheat twisting the simple minds, in politics
of greed and injustice, in power play which does not count the dead and the suffering, but money and world dominance. These young
American soldiers, themselves undereducated, may do not know what crime they do, but become hatred actors on a stage directed
by forces they never understand or see. Here in a Medrasah in African Zambia, teachers think and warn the youth of dangers far
beyond their comprehension.

Another night in "Hotel de la Jambo", as tomorrow we want to get a Visa for Malawi. The detour will allow us to see the country which
is supposed to be beautiful.

Tuesday 15-5-07

It was a cold night out there in the ULU (wilderness) How much welcomed was the warm coffee before we came to today's activities.
Money matters and so we calculated our funds:

Bush road to the camp The table we purchased in Botswana

The chartered accountant "H.H. Lim and company" overseer of the donations must rush to help!

     This is our calculation: We changed Brunei dollar into US dollars, then we had to have rand in south Africa, which again we were
forced to change to Namibian Dollar, which again are nothing in Botswana. As there is the "pula" king. And we purchased a table in
fine African craftsmanship for 55 pula. The rate was 1:1.6, 1: 1, 1: 4,1. but again we had to change back as they only accept US$ and
the moneychanger at the roadside hat a bad rate so we changed with the other one, or not? Not sure anymore. But then in Zambia,
where Kwacha is currency we present you the 300 kwacha as proof, we have not spend.
      You see there is a problem. According to our calculations we have 100 kwacha too much. How much that might be in strong Brunei
   currency you may ask: It is 8.5 Brunei cents. What are we supposed to do???

      The Malawi Embassy officer said, "Yes you get a visa here, fill the form." Done so she continued:" Actually no, you cannot get a
visa   here! " "???????" "We run out of visa stickers." So we cannot get a visa and cannot visit your country?"   "You can!" "????????".
We will give you a letter, come back at 2 pm.

     It was shortly after, when we left Lusaka via the Great Eastern road, which, still in the vicinity of the town was a dual lane carriage,
and became single lane with new tarmac overlay soon afterwards. Hills up, hills down, passing villages build along the road. The sun
shone from behind it was fine driving in a typical African landscape. Acacia trees spread their canopies wide and elephant grass
growing over 2 meter high.
It is sturdy material, used to roof houses.

Taken for a ride... storage basket for corn

We were almost cruising, if one neglects the following additional road users: The goats in groups of 20 up, the cows, the dogs,
the children not looking left and right, crossing like chicken; the roosters chasing the females for an egg making gsst gsst over the
road, hens themselves picking whatever falls from passing trucks, the Africans riding a bicycle, (usually two persons ), on foot the
women coming from the river with 20 liter water bucket on the head, at the back the newly born, next by, the baby from last year
carried by her sister,3 years older. Then there are the veggie sellers stalls ,with people standing into the road, friends or potential
buyers and last not least, cars which want to overtake you.

I almost forgot! The chameleon crossing the road. We rescue him from sure death. What we learned is, he did not like to be picked
up by the tail. He was upset, and tried to escape towards the tarmac again, with one eye looking angrily to Norahayti the other to
Harun. Rolling them and hissing. "Leave me in peace." "Brummm" Another car missed him by inches. We had to be ruthless and
took him, not listening to his complains, at his tail into safety.
The veggie sellers are the most alert ones. You slow down for any reason, they come running to you from behind their self-made
tables be it with tapioca the sugarcane or tomatoes. "There were four girls, asking us to take photo., "We are looking for a husband".

Gentlemen with experience, who know how to turn the charm on, the Casanovas, you know at once what these fancy hairstyles
should express and share herewith the knowledge with those of us who humble accept face value when it comes to women.

This is Chinsali, a shy but lovely 18 year old, she likes to curl with heir words and feelings, sweet as she is, but one does not
know if or if not, and when and when not. She could drive the admirer crazy!

Matasewani in contrary comes straight to the point. My dowry is 2 million kwacha. In cash, no credit ,no checks, no empty
promises, no installments. Two million before hand, and you can carry me away.

This is Serienje, grown up in the village of Pentauke, where water is collected from the river and light provided by the oil lamp, She
worked as maid in a household in town. It is there she came into contact with electric, holding by mistake the blank wires of the
pressing iron. Since then her face is frozen in this charming smile. Not bad also; the teeth can be brushed easily.

Mkushi like to play. In her arms the man is lost in temptation, directed and conducted by whom? Come on, You know it! The
hairstyle tells you that. By the little fellow from "below."

And in this concerto of shouts and children cries, bleat, and African music our "JAMBO", KK 3549 registered at the Land transport
in Gadong found its way towards East and Malawi.

After about 160 km it was getting dark, a signboard directed us along the river Luangwa ,and we reached the hilly campground just
before night. The European owner was behind his bar looking into his whiskey glass likely since morning, greeted us: "Melcome!".
Ai melcome youuuuu very musch," Can we camp? How much for us and the vehicle? I asked. "Juuuscht coscht you a night, Hicks"
the hiccup disturbed his important speech, "juscht coscht a night ahhhh": he looked into the ceiling for help and continued: juscht cost
you ah night," and came around the bar, but lost his balance was almost falling. To get his equilibrium back he sway over the low bar
table, staggered on towards the little swimming poll, could stop himself just before, and returned backward walking to us and said as
if nothing has happen: "eightytouschand kwatscha.
" Oh boy was he drunk!". You have crocodiles in the river? warning he lifted his fingers. "pleasche do not go near the river, many
crocodili and hippipatamusch ." He had problems with these words. Those we wanted to see and therefore we retired happily in the
"Hotel de la Jambo."

Wednesday 16-05-07

By 6:00 am, armed with two cameras and video Harun went down to the river, carefully setting step by step , searching for those
promised creatures in the morning dawn. It was still early. At a distance there was something like a bigger mass, maybe a hippo on
the sand shore? Sneaking closer he could hear talking. Moment! that cannot be a hippo. Meanwhile the daylight came up and he,
now close ,could see, the Hippo was actually 5 women, sitting around a fire and chat in the early morning. "What are you doing?"
"We buy fishes" they said.

"full of crocs and hipposch..." it was cold on the riverbank

Fishing boats hacked out of a trees He can never row straight; can he?

"Are here hippos and crocodiles? "Yes, there is one hippo it is you!" They all laugh about Haruns funny question. ."Come on, where
can I find some? " Three hours down in the National park." That was it,. Returning to the camp we packed and left.

Heading further east wards, sometime in slalom like Alpine skier between potholes and goats, we came across this sign and
decided to visit his Highness and try to get an audience. As there was also a clinic we turned off the road towards the palace of the
king.

We got a lot of respect when seeing this signboard

Bush road to the palace Women are wives, mothers and mules

The road became more and more narrow. After 6 km on the right a group of bush huts came up and we stopped. A guy in uniform
was around. "Sir excuse me, we are foreigners and would like to show our respect to His Highness." "And" we continued We have
some items which your clinic is surely short off." He was looking as if we are salesman" so we quickly continued: " which we want
to give for free."
When he heard "Free" he smiled, and went into a hut, reappeared with a big book and asking: what is exactly your purpose? We
explained again. He disappeared. Waiting we thought, "well if not then not." After 5 minutes he came. "His Highness will consent to
see you, after you come back from the clinic.

The clinic was another 2 km away.

the clinic for thousands in the area patients waiting

This little clinic in the bush has approximately 7000 patients. Two male nurses care for them. In July 2006 was the last time that a
doctor came." So, what you do with those which you cannot treat?" We send them home, or to a hospital if they can afford it.
The nurse has never seen sterile dressings. We had to explain to them and understanding it, they were truly happy. You come from so
far and give us this all? He asked. "Yes, it is a gift from the People of Brunei."
The joy was so great that patients started a spontaneous bush dance, in which Harun had to join... Hui was he swinging and shaking
his elderly bones...just to complain afterwards about back pain and muscle cramps.....

Green sterile packed dressings from the people of Brunei A Bush dance for the" Thank you Brunei"

We did good in the clinic and went back to the chiefs palace. "We could see him now." said the uniformed and advised us in the
welcoming code. "When you enter, you must take the shoes off, knee down and clap with your hands".
Who is used to the splendor and lavishness of kings in other regions, would be rather disappointed by the simplicity of the
welcoming hall. A straw mat on the bare floor, reed roof, earth walls. As you can see, the chief sitting on the throne and with his
close advisors, on the ground, together with us. one had no socks,the eldest wear some thing which were more holes than yarn.
In the beginning ,they spoke for him. (It could be, that we may ask some embarrassing questions, so he has not to answer) .

In the village The welcoming hall

In the welcoming hall. The chief and two advisors A great honor for me, to sit at the feet of his Highness

Explaining from where we came and what was our purpose, his Highness warmed dup. When I gave him a cap of Brunei, and a
nice picture of our mosque in a block of clear resin, he accepted it graciously. It will hold in future the begging letters of his subjects
on the table. And finally, he spoke and showed his concern about the people:
"I'm in charge of 50.000" but you see yourself how we live. We have no clean water to drink, no electricity, no toilets, not enough food.
We are poor. "Come" he turned the head to Harun: " and drill us a borehole." "You Highness if I could financially, I would ".

Before we left, we asked for permission to leave a cash present behind. It was only 20.000 kwacha, we could give, but it was
accepted.

Finally we reached later afternoon the town of Chipata, close to the Malawi border and decided to stay another night.

A signboard, "Deans hill view" at the right before the town, lead us up to a campground, which under development will be soon a
fine resting place for any Over Lander on the way to Malawi. Overlooking the valley , a cool breeze in the air, nipping on a
cup of coffee, life is considered beautiful.